Paris Fashion Week has come to a close after offering up some of the most inspiring catwalk trends for spring 2025. From new chore jackets to soft trouser suits, these are the pieces we actually want to add to our wardrobe.
The feminine chore jacket: Chloe
Chemena Kamali is single-handedly fueling a resurgence of the trinket-laden, feminine, boho style at Chloe, but if the whole lot is too much, do as Sienna Miller did when she took to the front row of the show and distill the look for a more streamlined look. , modern atmosphere. An example of this is the numerous variations on a blouson jacket that Kamali had made using the pattern of a blouse from the 1970s. Whether they’re cropped or longline, they’re a nice update to the cool chore jacket look that’s been seeing everywhere for a while. A wearable, outfit-transforming one-piece. BRA
The sarong skirt: Schiaparelli
At Schiaparelli, the wife of American Daniel Roseberry had a wasp waist and radiated sleek glamor this season, whether dressed in turquoise with a mermaid-like wet look or luxurious contoured denim. The collection was intended to outfit customers for cruising and travel, but there’s no better piece to enjoy next summer than one of the sarong-style skirts. Sporty but also forgiving, this is a garment that lends itself equally to a summer city dress with a crisp white shirt or to elegance on the beach with nothing more than a swimsuit and a cocktail. BRA
The floral dress: Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collections are fresh and high-concept, but this is also a designer well aware of his commercial impact. He flooded his runway with variations on a gossamer floral dress that was stretched at the bottom, creating an ultra-roomy silhouette that wouldn’t let anyone know about a big lunch. No doubt A-listers and the art crowd will adopt the pure version of the idea. But on a broader level, this could herald a comeback for unapologetically beautiful, roomy floral dresses. Women all over the world will rejoice. BRA
The flowing silk dress: Victoria Beckham
Backstage after unveiling her collection on Friday evening, Victoria Beckham was particularly proud of the resin designs that opened her show. But it was the effortless smooth silk dresses – which looked like melted chocolate was being poured over the body to slim and shape in all the right places – that were bound to be the real hit. Beckham has already seen huge sales growth thanks to her similarly carefully constructed Bella dress, which is loved by royals and celebrities, and these designs look set to follow suit. The even better news? Models wore theirs with flats. BRA
The jumpsuit: Hermes
Along with the rest of Paris, Hermes’s creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is endorsing knee-length skirts, cropped jackets and flowing trousers with side zippers that allow for an adjustable silhouette. A large part of her offering here was, as usual with Hermes, in leather and in the colors sand, khaki and raspberry. Sometimes it can all seem a bit tenuous – Hermes, more than any other house, has always been about the bags (and to some extent the shoes). But this jumpsuit looks like Lauren Hutton’s wore to the front row of the Saint Laurent show last week, summed up Vanhee-Cybulski’s light, no-nonsense touch. LA
A fitted blazer: Alexander McQueen
I wasn’t able to attend Seán McGirr’s debut for Alexander McQueen in March, so I can’t judge whether it deserved the near-universal panning it received. If so, this would certainly be a marked improvement. McGirr’s tailoring is sharp, if not perfect; the way some of those jacket sleeves hang could use some refinement. The shoulders were emphasized, as befits McQueen, but not cartoonish. The frothy chiffon eveningwear, while lacking the detailed beauty of its predecessor, Sarah Burton, looked commercially viable. LA
Light trench coat: Akris
While other shows aim to shock, Akris, a low-key Swiss label, focuses on wearable looks in luxurious fabrics. It makes for a nice change. The trench coat may have gotten its start on the front lines of World War I, but it works as well today as sleek urban wear as it did for Humphrey Bogart. This light stone version, with a relaxed tie belt, provides an effortless cover-up. SS
Luxury stripes: Sacai
Chitose Abe, founder and designer at Sacai, is endlessly inventive, creating new hybrids that transcend conventional dress codes. That makes her clothing both timeless and useful. Often combining athletic pieces with classic codes, here she has turned navy blue and white stripes into a glamorous tunic with a zhuzhy half train at the back. For the right person, this is evening wear that looks cool and relaxed, without being contrived. Coco Chanel would agree, you think, which is why Abe is sometimes talked about as a left-wing choice for the (currently vacant) top job at that house. LA
The cropped jacket with collar: Celine
Hedi Slimane, currently the frontrunner to take the top job at Chanel (who resigned on Wednesday), offered a refined, sophisticated take on classic Coco Chanel chic at Celine this season. You could read it as the ultimate audition. From cropped jackets (suede, beaded or wool) and knee-length (and shorter) pleated metallic skirts to impeccable black eveningwear (think Cristobal Balenciaga at his best), this Françoise Hardy-inspired wardrobe is quintessentially Parisian. The models have lash-confusing fringes, flicky eyeliner and Bambi paws. I love the jackets, blouses and the new bag with its understated hardware. But to wear the whole look from head to toe, you have to be thin and young (or old with a whole lot of attitude).
When I say models, don’t imagine that all of this was on the catwalk. The media-phobic Slimane put an end to that a few years ago and preferred to launch new collections through highly polished videos. This featured models in grand castles and gardens (shades of last year’s Marienbad, the 1961 arthouse classic, costumed by Coco Chanel). A select number of journalists are invited to Celine’s headquarters on the Left Bank to see the clothes up close – the craftsmanship is spectacular. LA
The sporty outer layer: Miu Miu
There was a whole range of fun ideas on the Miu Miu catwalk, from below-the-knee pleated skirts (Paris’ new favorite length), boxy handle bags, smart bomber jackets, sporty parkas, multi-coloured trainers, blazers, geometric patterns, woolen trench coats… the list of wearable, yet interesting pieces went on and on. Special: the neon ‘anti-blister’ sock that many models wore with their sandals. If Dr. Scholl doesn’t adopt this idea next summer, they need a change in leadership. LA
The soft pantsuit: Louis Vuitton
Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has been playing with the proportions of the eighties for a few seasons now – and is clearly having fun with it. This was cheerful and colorful. Broad shoulders and big puff sleeves, elongated bomber jackets, cycling shorts and bright primary colors suggest that the decade is still working its way through his system. But that also applies to a new softness. Flying silk dresses, some short in the front and long in the back, confirmed a trend spotted on the catwalks last month. This flowing, navy blue trouser suit is particularly striking: wearable and understated. Does it mark a new era at a label best known for its avant-garde red carpet statements? LA
