On a sloping stretch of sandy beach, the sun low but still warm and bright in the sky, my husband and I sit and watch our sons play in the waves. There are few other people around as they spin and jump, duck under the waves and try to bodysurf. Mostly they just wrestle with each other in the bubbling foam.
The eldest is 13, so inevitably he and his 11-year-old brother play together less than they used to, but they are never as happy as a duo as when they are playing in the ocean. Especially not when the waves are strong and powerful, as they are today in Montalivet, a small resort in the Gironde department, also known by its full name Vendays-Montalivet, on France’s Atlantic coast.
The rising temperatures we have seen in Europe in recent years, caused by the climate crisis, have changed the way we approach summer holidays. Gone are the city breaks and rural holidays; now it’s all about the coast, with lots of time in the water.
We travelled by train from London to Lesparre, changing in Paris and Bordeaux, then jumped in a taxi for the 30 minute journey to Montalivet and our campsite Atlantic Club Montalivet. Although we arrived in a heatwave (day (as the French call it) fortunately the coast is cooler.
The beach feels wild and natural, with windswept coastal grasses and sand dunes bordering tall pine forests
The Gironde Atlantic coast stretches for 78 miles (126 km) from Verdon-sur-Mer in the north to the Bay of Arcachon in the south. The beach feels wild and natural, with windswept coastal grasses and rolling sand dunes discreetly cordoned off for protection, backed by tall pine forests. An old, graffiti-painted World War II bunker adds to the sense of remoteness, and it’s no surprise that there’s a naturist resort and beach nearby.
There is a patrolled area directly in front of the campsite, which is reassuring as the currents on this exposed stretch of beach can be strong. A local told me that it rarely becomes completely flat here, even in the height of summer – which of course means it’s great for surfing.
Most days we rent boards from Yann, who runs Maya Surf School with his wife from a wooden beach hut. He advises us on the daily conditions and the best places to surf for our level and is often in the water teaching, casually giving us useful technical tips: “More weight on the front foot!” “Always watch the line!”
The site has a good swimming pool (the boys loved the water slides), football cage and table tennis tables, plus tennis, beach volleyball and boules courts. There are trampolines and pony rides for younger children and for adults the wellness centre offers massages, a steam room and a sauna. Accommodation ranges from basic safari tents to three-bed lodges with a covered terrace; we stayed in a mid-range mobile home.
Since 2019, this region has been designated as a Regional Natural Park of the Médoc. Unlike a national park, natural parks in France focus not only on preserving unique landscapes, but also on heritage industries, which in the Médoc means wine-growing and tourism, to stimulate sustainable economic development.
Local tour operators are encouraged to discuss with their guests environmental issues affecting the region, such as plastic pollution in the ocean from winter storms. Suggestions are also made for beach cleanups or other positive contributions visitors can make, such as consuming regional products, using local service providers and carrying refillable water bottles.
The strict restrictions on building and industrial development in the region mean it is unlikely to ever become overcrowded or ruined
The designation seems to be something the locals are proud of. Our taxi driver raves about the area’s clear waters and golden sands, its rare biodiversity – from butterflies, frogs and squirrels to wild boar – and says he regularly takes part in beach clean-ups in the winter. The strict restrictions on building and industrial development in the area mean it’s unlikely to ever become overcrowded or spoiled, he adds.
It takes about 40 minutes to walk along the beach from the campsite to Montalivet-les-Bains, the small resort town. We usually hire bikes from the campsite, and take the Vélodyssée, the cycle route along the Atlantic coast, before turning off onto the paths through the pine forest and the pretty, quiet, tree-lined back streets of the town.
We buy fruit and vegetables at the open-air market and wander past shops selling surf prints and linen hammocks. I enjoy browsing the books and sustainable clothing at The Green Room and the boys drag us to the many excellent ice cream parlours. The town is vibrant but not overcrowded and although we hear a handful of English voices, most of the people we meet are French, German or Dutch.
Zephyr Café is our favourite spot for early-evening cocktails and mocktails (the boys love the guacamole and chips), while dinner at Ocean 2, on the seafront, is all about seafood risotto and burgers and chips, with live bands playing some evenings as the sun sets. The selection of Médoc wines at each venue is as extensive as it is reasonable.
One day, when the weather cools to the high 20s, we take a longer ride along the Vélodyssée to Soulac-sur-Mer, a larger resort about 15 miles (24 km) to the north. The route is mostly flat, and we cycle through forests and along picturesque, empty beaches. Yann, from the surf school, recommends swimming in Soulac’s natural sea pools, where concrete breakwaters designed to prevent coastal erosion make for peaceful swimming even when the sea is churning. It’s a great shout: they’re gorgeous, sheltered from the waves and very peaceful, with only a few people swimming laps and a dog taking a dip.
Back at our local beach, we find our usual spot and watch the children play until the lifeguards pack up and we head to the bar to watch the sunset. European summer holiday options may be getting more complicated as the climate changes, but for our beach-loving family, there is still plenty of joy to be found.
• The train journey from London to Lesparre was provided by Train line. Sam Haddad is the author of the online newsletter Climate & Board Sports. Seven nights at Atlantic Club Montalivet in an eco-tent with two beds for up to five people €124 from 1 September