When Steffan Rhys was a teenager, he swore he would never return to the seaside town of Tenby.
For reasons he can no longer remember, he avoided the area for decades, with a “misguided belief” that he would never set foot there at any cost.
But he recently returned and says he ‘regrets’ his decision to avoid the picturesque town, which has gone from being his nightmare to the site of his dream home, LancsLive reports.
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Steffan says…
For years I had the misguided belief that this iconic seaside town was a place to avoid. This could be due to some distorted memories from my moody teenage years and early adulthood, or perhaps the town wasn’t all that appealing back then and has undergone a significant transformation since then. It could be a combination of both.
Anyway, after two decades of vowing never to return to Tenby, I now long to live there. I regret not having returned sooner to fully appreciate its charms. The town is simply delightful for so many reasons, from its many appealing eateries and pubs, four beaches within a stone’s throw of the town centre and vibrant houses that are world-renowned, to the awe-inspiring beauty of Pembrokeshire that surrounds it.
Whether you’re a family with young children, a group of friends planning a weekend away, or a young couple looking for the perfect mix of serene beaches, quaint cobbled streets, countryside walks and vibrant nightlife, Tenby is an ideal destination. It’s no surprise that it’s been named one of Britain’s “best” seaside towns for 2024, according to Wales Online.
Tenby has now become a permanent part of my life, and the lives of my family and friends. If I can’t live there, I want the next best thing – to go there as often as possible.
For that reason, my mates and I now rent a house once a year and also go there on family summer holidays. Here are a few things to do in and around Tenby that make it so unique.
So many beaches
One of the striking features of Tenby is the fact that you can reach four different beaches within a few minutes walk from the town centre. North and South Beach are large and wide open at low tide (with great waves at high tide).
North Beach is distinguished by the jagged rock that rises from its heart, where you can explore rock pools at low tide. Between these two beaches is the smaller Harbour Beach, where you’ll find the town’s fleet of small fishing boats moored, and Castle Beach, which is wedged between two rocky outcrops, one of which is home to a striking cliff fort.
Boat trips on the island
Caldey Island is a truly remarkable place and one of Britain’s ‘holy islands’. There has been a monastery here for centuries and their current home is a beautiful white Italianate monastery built in 1906. You will also find the 13th century St Illtyd’s Church. But the real joy of Caldey Island is wandering from one end of the island to the other. Along the way you will pass horses grazing in the fields and even a working chocolate factory where you can buy a bar.
Once you reach the furthest point of the island, you can enjoy the tranquil atmosphere and stunning sea views. Caldey Island is accessible by boat from Tenby, with regular services to and from Tenby harbour. Upon arrival at Caldey, visitors are greeted by a pristine, almost white sandy beach that could easily be mistaken for a Caribbean coastline. With most tourists flocking to the beaches of Tenby, this may be your chance to enjoy a secluded beach experience.
Pembrokeshire on your doorstep
Tenby is just one of the many gems in the treasure trove of Pembrokeshire. There are countless things to do and see, but I will only mention a few.
Firstly, there are the many beautiful beaches along the stunning coastline, including Freshwater West (home to Dobby’s ‘grave’ from Harry Potter) and Barafundle, previously voted one of the best beaches in the UK.
A scenic walk from Bosherston takes you to Barafundle, passing serene lily ponds along the way. Nearby is the rugged St Govan’s Head, home to one of Britain’s most unique coastal features: St Govan’s Chapel, a 13th or 14th century structure set into the cliff face, with powerful waves crashing beneath.
This corner of Pembrokeshire is also home to Stackpole Nature Reserve, while further north the rolling Preseli Hills provide stunning scenery.
Old and ancient sights
Pembrokeshire’s rich history is evident in its many man-made monuments spanning centuries. One of these is the Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, a relic of the Neolithic (New Stone Age) period when our ancestors buried their dead in such tombs.
The region is also home to several castles, largely due to the Landsker Line, which historically separated the Welsh in the north of the region from the Norman and Flemish settlers in the south.
One such castle is Carew Castle, majestically situated above the tidal waters where the Carew River meets the canal. The tidal range here is so great that the view can change dramatically depending on what time of day you visit. The walls surrounding the nearby tidal mill are perfect for catching crabs. Just cast your net and bait and you’re almost guaranteed to catch a crab.
Where to eat and drink in Tenby
When it comes to food and drink in Tenby, the town doesn’t disappoint. There’s Tap and Tan, a unique combination of BBQ joint and craft beer haven, where meat is grilled over an open fire right before your eyes.
In one of Tenby’s oldest and most charming buildings you’ll find Plantagenet House, situated next to the town’s Tudor merchant’s house and dating partly from the Middle Ages.
As you walk down Sergeant’s Lane you will discover the Harbwr Brewery. Once a deserted and overgrown alleyway, it has been transformed into a charming cobbled alley where you can order a drink directly from the brewery itself and enjoy some people watching.
There is also an adjoining pub. If you walk down to the harbour you will come across a hut selling crab sandwiches and lobster rolls, and also The Stowaway, a cosy place for coffee and cake, hidden underground in an old archway.
Where to stay in Tenby
Tenby offers a wide range of accommodation options including hotels, B&Bs and AirBnbs. You will find standard chain hotels such as Premier Inn and Travelodge, along with numerous independent hotels, many of which are located on the coast.
The real charm, however, is discovering a unique house or converted apartment on the coast, which you can find on Booking.com or Airbnb. Many of the colourful seaside houses that Tenby is famous for are available to rent.
My family stayed in a spacious apartment just a stone’s throw from the harbour and the beach. There are also complete houses for rent with sea views.
Be aware that Pembrokeshire, like many other parts of Wales and the UK, is facing a major problem: houses are being bought and rented out to tourists, rather than being lived in by locals.