It is perhaps one of Japan’s most iconic scenes: the triangular shape of Mount Fuji rising into the blue sky, its snow-capped peak accurately reflected in the still waters of a nearby lake.
This image is captured with measured simplicity in a 19th-century woodblock print by Katsushika Hokusai, the artist responsible for the iconic ’36 Views of Mount Fuji’ series.
Number 35 shows Lake Kawaguchi, a setting as picturesque as it is timeless. Nearly two centuries later, it remains a magnet for Mount Fuji enthusiasts – and now an increasing problem for local communities swamped by tourist numbers.
And last week, a lakeside town – Fujikawaguchiko – reached boiling point, making headlines around the world because it had begun erecting a huge black barrier to obscure the popular viewing spot. The decision came after a litany of complaints from locals, ranging from tourists littering and parking illegally to reports of visitors climbing onto nearby rooftops in search of the perfect photo.
The screen may seem like an extreme measure – especially in a country known for its well-mannered moderation and stoicism – but this is not an isolated incident. Open post-pandemic borders combined with a tantalizingly weak yen are driving record highs for inbound tourism, with monthly visitor numbers from abroad rising to 3 million for the first time in March. Japan is being flooded with tourists like never before, and for the locals bearing the brunt, patience is running out.
As a result, a series of initiatives are sweeping Japan in an attempt to tackle the growing challenges – and deep-seated cultural sensitivities – of overtourism.
For example, local government officials in the Mount Fuji region recently announced plans to introduce a new mandatory fee of 2,000 yen to climb the peak. Tourists will have to pay the levy from the start of this year’s climbing season on July 1, with daily numbers also capped at 4,000.
Another hotbed of overtourism is the former ancient capital of Kyoto, which has introduced a number of increasingly desperate measures in recent months to limit overtourism on its historic streets.
One of the most notable measures is the recent closure of some parts of Gion, the historic geisha district, due to a growing number of incidents of “badly behaved” tourists pulling on geishas’ kimonos and jostling them for photos.
The overcrowding of Kyoto’s local buses is another major issue – with city officials also announcing plans in March to introduce exclusive buses to tourist attractions, to reduce pressure on overused local routes.
Sara Aiko, director and founder of Curated Kyoto, a luxury travel company based in Kyoto, explains: “When tourism starts to disrupt residents’ daily routines and saturate serene places like temples and shrines, it is not comfortable. As global citizens we are all for sharing our beautiful cities, but when your leisurely bus ride to the supermarket turns into a struggle, or your favorite bar is overrun by crowds, locals become frustrated, which leads to tensions.”
She adds: “This is of course not fun for tourists either. I want visitors to experience the best of Kyoto without feeling like they are just part of a mass movement. There are still magical, tranquil corners of Kyoto waiting to be explored, but the problem lies in infrastructure and the lack of regulation of visitor numbers.”
Niseko on Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido – an increasingly popular winter sports destination thanks to its famous white powder – now blooms during the winter months and is struggling to keep up.
As a result, the resort will start charging up to 2,000 yen per night for accommodation from November next year – just in time for the next winter ski and snowboard season – in the hope that this will reduce numbers.
Further south, in Hiroshima Prefecture, the city of Hatsukaichi recently introduced a 100 yen entrance fee to help protect the iconic Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its red torii gate surrounded by sea at high tide.
‘Avoid the algorithm’
The Japanese government is also exploring ways to minimize the impact of overtourism on congested parts of the country – launching a project aimed at diverting tourists from the beaten tourist route of the so-called Golden Triangle of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.
Instead, Japan is promoting 11 so-called “model” destinations to help tourists explore lesser-known (and emptier) places across the country – including explorations of samurai culture in Hokuriku; nature activities in Nasu, Tochigi; the Alps of Nagano and Gifu; the volcanoes of Kagoshima and the national parks of eastern Hokkaido.
For tourists who want to visit Japan – but also avoid the crowds and minimize pressure on local communities – Charles Spreckley, the founder of People Make Places, a Japan-based travel design firm, has some advice.
“Avoid the algorithm and create your own adventure,” he suggests. “Ignore Google reviews and other tourism portals. The great thing about Japan is that because it is so safe, you can literally pick a destination and just walk, making so many discoveries along the way.”
But will Japan’s increasingly extreme measures have the desired effect? The country’s popularity among foreign visitors only seems to be increasing, and with locals understandably concerned about preserving their beautiful, ancient – and fragile – culture, trouble may still lie ahead.