Soft, white, powdery beaches, clear turquoise waters, exotic gardens, vineyards, art studios and honesty boxes; this is Britain, but different to what you’re used to. The beautiful Isles of Scilly, an idyllic part of Cornwall, are an archipelago 30 miles west of the mainland.
Heathland is buzzing with insects, endangered birds nest on rocky beaches and grey seals lazily pull themselves out of the water to sunbathe on rocky islets. Of the more than 140 islands, only five are inhabited today, and each has its own unique character.
St Mary’s is about as cosmopolitan as you’ll find, with its numerous hotels, eateries and shops. Tresco is perfect for families, rugged Bryher is peaceful and welcoming, tiny St Martin’s has an overriding sense of calm and even quieter St Agnes, home to what is arguably the best campsite with a view in the country, feels a world away.
Come away from the mainland for a weekend and you’ll be coming back again and again to discover more of this enchanting corner of Cornwall, without the crowds.
For more inspiration, visit our guides to the islands’ best hotels, restaurants and attractions. If you’re planning a longer trip, visit our guide to the ultimate Cornwall holiday.
The perfect weekend getaway in the Isles of Scilly
If you only have a few days on the Isles of Scilly, it’s best to use St Mary’s as a base. The largest inhabited island, the ferry, air and helicopter terminals are all here (although Tresco also has a helipad). If you’re short on time, a flight with Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk) is probably your best – and most convenient – option (see below).
St Mary’s is as cosmopolitan as the Isles of Scilly can ever feel, with a wealth of fantastic boutiques and local crafts for sale. There’s a good choice of accommodation too. Star Castle offers a sense of grandeur (rooms from £259), while St Mary’s Hall hotel is right in the heart of Hugh Town (from £214). If you’re looking for a delightful stay with a more local feel, try the cheap and cheerful Mincarlo B&B (mincarloscilly.com; rooms from £87).
Once you’ve established your base, explore the island. Everything is within walking distance, but if you’re short on time and have little stamina, hop in Scilly Carts and hire a golf buggy for the day. With keys in hand, you can visit Scilly Spirit Distillery, explore the ancient Bronze Age tombs in the north of the island, laze on one of the many beaches or wander the grounds of Star Castle.
Stop for a bite to eat along the way. You can’t beat Juliet’s Garden Restaurant for a tasty lunch with a view, while Dibble & Grub serves surprisingly good tapas by the beach. Find more of the islands’ best restaurants in our guide.
You could easily spend a weekend on St Mary’s, but any visit to the Isles of Scilly is really about island hopping. There are regular day trip services to the other islands (at least two return services to each island per day, as well as two round trips per day in high season), and which one you choose depends on your taste (see below). Find out more about island hopping in our guide to the top attractions.
The perfect week-long holiday in the Isles of Scilly
A week offers many more possibilities and is the best time to spend here, as you can fully enjoy the islands and discover the unique character of each island.
For a six night vacation I would recommend two nights on St. Mary’s and two nights on two of the other islands to get a real feel for each island. Where you stay doesn’t limit what you can visit either, as each island offers daily transfers to at least one other island.
Which islands you choose to stay on will depend entirely on your tastes. Tresco, famously the favourite holiday destination of the Prince and Princess of Wales, is great for families. This is thanks to the little touches, such as the treasure chests dotted around the island, filled with beach toys for the kids. You can also hire bikes, visit the famous Tresco Abbey gardens or relax in the spa, which also has an indoor pool for unexpected rainy days. Most of the options for staying on Tresco are self-catering, apart from the fantastic New Inn (from £110), which also serves a great pub dinner, featuring the local seafood.
Neighbouring Bryher can be seen across the water from Tresco and is a quieter, more laid-back option. The abundance of honesty boxes dotted around this pretty island is part of its endearing charm. If you’re looking for a little adventure, hire some watersports equipment from Hut 62 and hit the water. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, try Fraggle Rock for perhaps the best crab sandwich in the islands. When it comes to where to stay, Hell Bay is a firm favourite (rooms from £210) with a meal at their rustic Crab Shack hard to beat.
If you want to get to know the locals better, head to St Martin’s, which has a quiet, industrious atmosphere – and some of the prettiest, quietest beaches on the islands. Plan your visit for one of the few days of the week when the vineyard and winery are open to enjoy a tour and tasting. SC Dogs has a lovely little rum distillery nearby that you can also visit. Take a break with a visit to the Polreath Tearoom, where Sarah and Jason serve a great afternoon tea. If you’d prefer something a little more substantial, Seven Stones Inn is also a great option. Join the less talkative – but no less friendly – locals on a snorkelling experience with wild grey seals. Rest your head at the end of a busy day at Karma St Martin’s (from £308).
If you’re looking for some real peace and quiet, head to St. Agnes. This is home to what is probably the best view you’ll find from a campsite in the whole of England: Troytown. The farm is also known for its delicious ice cream, which you’ll definitely earn after a walk around the island. If you’re looking to learn more about the local wildlife, catch a Gig race or simply hop between islands, the friendly John Peacock from St. Agnes Boating will be happy to help.
Where to stay
The best for families
Tresco is hard to beat for family-friendly holidays. The pretty New Inn is the only pub on the island and can accommodate small families in one room, or offer multiple rooms for families. You can also choose to stay in self-catering cottages (tresco.co.uk). If you want to camp, Troytown campsite on St Agnes (troytown.co.uk) has some of the most spectacular views in the UK.
The best for small island living
On the beautiful, rugged Bryher, Hell Bay is the ultimate place to rest and recharge with stunning surroundings and seasonal cuisine. If you prefer somewhere with its own private quay, Karma St Martin’s is a great choice, offering laid-back luxury against a backdrop of white sand.
Best for island hopping
St. Mary’s is easily the most accessible island with the most connections to other islands. If you are looking for something a bit more upmarket, Star Castle has a sense of grandeur with its fascinating history and
and a view of the hilltop. Much lower down is St. Mary’s Hall hotel, which is right in the heart of Hugh Town and offers easy access to attractions and the quay. It also promises a great steak.
Discover more of the best hotels in the Isles of Scilly in our guide.
When to go
The islands are virtually closed between November and March, with many hotels, restaurants and attractions closed for the season and the ferry no longer running. Tresco does offer winter holidays, with the island spa and New Inn open all season.
With one of the mildest climates in the UK, the Isles of Scilly are also known as the ‘Sunshine Isles’. Early spring means flowers bloom early and puffins, shearwaters and other breeding birds can be seen from April to July. If you miss them, the seal cubs start arriving from August to November, so you’ll never miss a wildlife experience.
The islands are warmest in July and August, although this is also the busiest time due to the summer holidays. However, with limited accommodation, the islands never feel completely overrun. The Low Tide Festival (tresco.co.uk) is a great event to attend, when the lunar cycle causes extremely low tides between Tresco and Bryher. There are a handful of these events each year, usually in spring and early autumn.
What to take home
There are a number of creative types who have been inspired by the beauty of the islands and have set up their workshops here. Phoenix Craft Studios (visitislesofscilly.com) in Porthmellon Business Park on St Mary’s is an interesting place to wander around, selling everything from jewellery to glass and clay work, prints and scarves by local artisans.
Walking around the islands, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a visitor who isn’t wearing a St Mary’s IOS sweatshirt (theiosstore.co.uk) or a St Martin’s Scilly Billy t-shirt (scillybilly.com/). If you’re looking for a tasty treat to take home, it’s hard to beat Bryher’s Veronica Farm Fudge (veronicafarmfudge.co.uk). For something a little more unusual, pick up some SC Salt (sc-salt.co.uk) or a golden rum from SC Dogs (scdogs.co.uk), both on St Martin’s, or a canvas tote from Rat Bags (ratisland.net) on St Mary’s.
Essential information
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Accessibility by plane: The islands can be reached by land or sea. Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk) operates year-round flights to St Mary’s from Land’s End with Skybus aircraft (15–20 minutes; from £121.50 per adult one way) and Newquay 30 minutes; from £171.25 per adult one way). They also fly from Exeter between March and November (one hour; from £236.50 per adult one way). Day passengers are allowed hand luggage only; all other passengers are allowed both hold luggage and hand luggage. Penzance Helicopters (penzancehelicopters.co.uk; from £149.50 per adult one way) also operates year-round flights to St Mary’s or Tresco from Penzance (from 15 minutes).
Accessibility by sea: The Scillonian III passenger ferry operates daily from Penzance from April to November, departing each morning from the mainland and returning from St Mary’s in the late afternoon. The crossing takes 2 hours 45 minutes and is operated by Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk; from £76.25 per adult, one way). The Atlantic Wolff is due to start a fast ferry service in summer 2024, operating from May to October with up to two daily return trips during peak season. The crossing from Penzance to St Mary’s takes around 1 hour 50 minutes (scillyferries.co.uk; from £49 per adult, one way).
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Emergency services: Air and sea ambulance/police/fire brigade 999
This story was first published in August 2023 and has been revised and updated.
Author’s Biography
Penny Walker is Telegraph Travel’s Features Editor. A self-confessed lover of British holidays, her passion for Cornwall was ignited at an early age, with beloved camping holidays turning into annual pilgrimages. She has explored the Isles of Scilly extensively and it is easily one of her favourite British holiday destinations.