Twelve years ago I was so in love with Deal, which is just eight miles from the white cliffs of Dover on the Kent coast, that I wrote letters to the owners of about twenty houses along the coast asking if they would consider selling. The result of my forward thinking was the purchase of a fixer upper circa 1770, a decision we have never regretted. When I first rented a cottage a few years earlier in 2008 (after a hasty Google search for “sea view cottage, two hours from London”), “Where on earth is Deal?” was the question I got from everyone.
It is believed that Julius Caesar in 55 B.C. stamped over the pebbles; and in 1784 Prime Minister William Pitt sent soldiers to burn the smugglers’ boats because the city was so illegal. The joke is that tunnels and secret hideouts are more common than utility rooms on brokers’ records.
Over the years I have seen the city transform from backwater to one of Britain’s most sought-after coastal weekend getaways, especially for DFLs (those from London), and I have no doubt that its mention in Qantas Airlines magazine one of the “23 places to visit in 2023” raised a few eyebrows among the Dealites (as the locals like to be called). Deal may not have as much written about it as Margate, but in my opinion it’s all the better .
My three young sons grew up hitting the slots at the bijou arcade, scootering down the promenade and playing hide and seek in Deal’s pleasantly creepy Tudor castle (built in perfect symmetry in the shape of a Tudor Rose by Henry VIII in 1539) , just as young families still do today.
The architecture I fell for: 1930s seaside shelters that resemble flying saucers, the concrete hull of a brutalist pier (the last built in Britain in 1957), and the seaside mix of pastel historic architecture – has only become more attractive as they have been sympathetically renovated (thank goodness major changes rarely get past Dover District Council). Deal’s conservation area, namely Middle Street and Beach Street and the minor roads running between them, provide clues to Deal’s past. Fun to wander around are the evocative streets of Silver, Golden and Brewer.
My perfect Saturday is unwavering, starting with a stroll around Deal Town Market, where you’ll find a global mix of foodie delights: French cheese, Swedish rolls and the best of Kent’s cherries in the summer months (try a ginger and greengage ice cream from local maker Penny Licks).
Then I set off for a cycle or dog walk along the beach-hugging path, past wild coastal gardens filled with red valerian, to Kingsdown and the Zetland Arms, a lovely pub on the pebbles overlooking France (zetlandarms.co.uk). On Sundays, if the weather is nice, I pick up a gourmet picnic from the Arno & Co delicatessen and head straight to the beach, hoping to see the whiskered noses of seals moving back and forth from their colony in nearby Pegwell Bay.
The credit for putting Deal on the map goes to the pioneers who punted the once sleepy backwater. Still thriving is the Hoxton Store (hoxtonstore.com), owned by Alison Whalley, who swapped an east London boutique for a homewares store in Deal, Frog & Scot (frogandscot.co.uk), the first restaurant to the cat among the seagulls in terms of interesting dining, and Taylor Jones & Son (www.taylorjonesandson.co.uk), which started with a small shop/gallery and now has two floors of world-class contemporary art.
“There’s no place I’d rather be than Deal,” says Richard Taylor-Jones, who grew up here. “There’s a great mix of history, art, food and nature, all presented in a friendly way, because Deal isn’t glitzy and hasn’t fallen into the trap of being ‘the place to be’, keeping it authentic.”
In terms of accommodation, the opening of The Rose was a real game-changer: a rough old boozer transformed into a luxury boutique hotel (how I love a Kentish bramble cocktail on the sunny garden terrace), and in 2022 Updown (updownfarmhouse.com ), a 17th-century farmhouse, opened on the outskirts of the city. The restaurant is overseen by chef and owner Oli Brown, who focuses on Italian food and hyper-seasonality, but doesn’t bother with a Sunday roast that will please the crowd.
All of the above has paved the way for recent openings that would have been laughed out of town twelve years ago, like the Blue Pelican (also from the Rose stable), which had all the top food critics lining up to “ooh” and “ahh” over the Japanese tapas-style sharing plates (and rightly so, because the crab croquettes alone are worth a visit). Ting-Ying (ting-ying.com) is Deal’s newest gallery, featuring unusual ceramics and treats such as Pocket Fruits, a series of small but perfect oil on canvas paintings by Dani Humbersome.
Jenkins & Son Fishmongers (jenkinsandsonfishandgame.co.uk) is moving to larger premises to add a street food offering – think smoked fish, Scotch eggs and (rumor has it) a champagne bar (“Oh blimey! I hope Deal’s I don’t get ideas that go beyond their purpose,” says my older neighbor when I deliver the news).
But it’s those who have been here the longest who get the final say, namely the Ship Inn (01304 372222), a 600-year-old pub where it’s wise not to ask if they do food. “Nuts!” will be the answer. Also The Ice Cream Parlor (01304 374120) for the sheer nostalgia of fishing for the cherry from the bottom of a knickerbocker glory. And other beloved small businesses, like Smuggler’s Records (shop.smugglersrecords.com), where you can listen to vinyl while drinking a local craft beer from Tide & Time Brewery.
Finally, you really can’t beat a rainy afternoon at Le Pinardier wine bar – sister restaurant to Frog & Scot – which evokes Deal’s quirky smuggling past with its dark wood interior and bottle-lined shelves.
The perfect weekend in Deal
By Emilee Tombs
Where to stay
Deal’s beloved boutique hotel, The Rose (therosedeal.com), opened to fanfare in 2018 and has been attracting the well-heeled ever since. This family-friendly, bejeweled retreat is essentially a pub with great rooms (some with roll-top baths). It is located in the heart of the city and is always busy.
Rooms from £198
Where to eat
The Rose’s dining room serves a fabulous multi-course brunch, and dinner bookings are a must if you want to sample the exceptional, locally sourced modern British cuisine, often served with a twist; Tomato martini with a side of Kent oysters, anyone? The Neopolitan-style pizzas served in the beer garden of Deal Hoy pub (www.dealhoykent.co.uk) are a great low-key alternative.
What must we do
Take a stroll along the beachfront promenade before checking out the Don’t Walk gallery, which represents Vic Reeves (dontwalkwalkgallery.com). Deal also has some great antique shops.
Emilee Tombs was a guest at The Rose