Coffee, rum and a sunny blue sky: the small tropical country of Panama has it all.
And while most people who come to Panama choose Panama City in favor of the tropical San Blas Islands, there are still plenty of reasons to make a stop here. At the top of the list is the bustling Casco Viejo. Home to numerous churches and ancient buildings dating back to Spanish rule, it is a World Heritage Site that has undergone rapid transformation in recent years.
From an abandoned space it has grown into one of the capital’s trendiest areas, packed with chic hotels and some of the best dining options in the capital. As it’s still a bit of a hidden gem, now’s the perfect time to visit this part of the world: here’s what to see, do and most importantly, eat.
What to see
Being one of the oldest parts of the city, the best way to see Casco Viejo is to simply take a stroll through the winding streets and soak up the atmosphere.
Let your feet take you to the beautiful Old Basilica, which was built in 1674 and remains one of the city’s oldest buildings – and then head towards the city’s easternmost point, the Plaza de Francia, where a huge memorial represents the workers who built the Panama Canal, but more importantly, stunning views of the surrounding city from the walls of the bastion (making it perfect for sunset walks).
From there you can visit the many churches of Casco Viejo, including San José, which is famous for its golden altar; San Francisco of Asís at Plaza Bolívar and La Merced.
Do you still have time after that? Then a trip to the Mercado de Mariscos, Panama City’s fish market, is a must. Located on the edge of the old town, it’s worth visiting for the fishmongers lining the edges, who will sell you cups of ceviche for $2 – which might be the best you’ve had all holiday.
More of a history buff? Good news: there’s entertainment in the form of the extremely informative Panama Canal Museum. Recently renovated, it contains stunningly detailed exhibitions on the history of the city and its infamous canal, which can be seen from some of the tallest buildings in the area (tickets cost £13 each, museodelcanal.com).
As you wander the streets, don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for Panama’s true passion: coffee. This is the home of the good stuff, and there are coffee shops on almost every corner offering both Italian coffee and ‘pour-overs’ – basically luxury filter coffee.
While you can’t go far wrong, for a truly elite tasting, we recommend heading to Sisu, which brings a cool slice of California to the humid streets of Casco Viejo.
Run by Lamastus Family Estates, a long-time coffee farmer, it’s the perfect place to unwind and try a geisha coffee: a rare blend unique to Panama that has a delicate, floral flavor (more information here).
Or is rum more your speed? Head to Pedro Mandinga, one of the few rum distilleries in Panama City. Luckily, it also has a bar in Casco Viejo, so settle into the beautifully decorated interior (wood panelling, floral wallpaper and leather armchairs) and try a rum flight of Panamanian rum for $20, or £18 (pedromandinga.com).
And for those who want to venture a little further afield, there’s also the rest of Panama City to explore. Although not as touristy it is still worth paying the £5 Uber fare to visit the Metropolitan National Park which is a 15 minute walk away but does allow you to take a dip in the rainforest that lurks on the edge of town. In fact, it’s teeming with wildlife: we saw sloths, but you can also spot toucans and monkeys (tickets cost £3.50 pp, parquemetropolitano.org). Hike to the top for stunning views of the entire skyline.
Where to eat
For truly top-notch food, Fonda Lo Que Hay has to be first on the list. Established in 2020, the restaurant has built a reputation as one of Panama’s best dining options. It is even on the list of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America.
Head here for a fun, quirky take on traditional Panamanian dishes: the roasted cassava with tuna melts in your mouth (and is a house specialty), while the Sexy Clams (mussels in a melting green sauce, served with coconut rice) are also sublime are. And don’t forget to wash it all down with a cocktail, preferably the Paloma (meals cost around £150 for two, fondaloquehay.com)
Then there is Kaandela in Amarla. Recently opened, it offers some of the most exciting dining in the area, incorporating fire and smoke into many of the dishes (some, like the smoky chocolate cake, with unexpected and delicious results). Take a seat at the open counter and watch the chefs work their magic with old classics: the ceviche with passion fruit sauce and a Panamanian take on paella are particular highlights. Or, if you’re brave, opt for the tasting menu and let them decide (meals cost £150 for two, kaandela.com).
For those looking for a quieter dinner (or even drinks), La Pulperia is a good choice. As the name implies, it serves octopus, but alongside a menu that foregrounds local dishes such as ceviche and empanadas. Don’t miss the truly stunning cocktail list, though, which ranges from mojitos to cocktails on the classic Panamanian shaved ice pudding (meals cost around £70 for two, lapulperia.pa).
Or if your tastes run towards the exotic, how about Enkai? Tucked away on a small side street, it serves Peruvian/Japanese fusion that has to be tasted to be believed. Yes, there’s an extensive list of ceviche, but there’s also a tender tuna tartare and grilled fish in passionfruit sauce that are definitely worth experimenting with (meals cost around £100 for two, enkainikkei.com).
Where to stay
For a place that combines luxury with intimacy, Amarla Casco Viejo is the place to go. A small (only seven rooms) boutique hotel, tucked away in the streets of the old town. It’s a beautiful renovation of an old Spanish mansion (dating back to the 17th century), making it the perfect retreat after a long day of exploring.
While all the rooms are beautiful, we recommend exploring the suite: spread over two levels, decorated with photographs of local wildlife (available for purchase) and Panamanian art, and equipped with silk robes for you to sleep in. lounge around artfully while enjoying your morning coffee. There is a roof terrace with a plunge pool and sun loungers to relax on, and inside there is a study with plants and wood. And did we mention that one of the best restaurants in the city is located here, in Kaandela? All the more reason to visit (rooms start from £192, amarla.pa).
Amarla fully booked (as often)? Then come visit The American Trade Hotel. Housed in a 1917 building that started out as an American commercial building, it has been beautifully redesigned and now boasts a jazz club, several restaurants and immaculately kept rooms (rooms start from £224, americantradehotel.com).
Then there is Hotel La Compañía. Located down the road in an old Jesuit monastery dating back to the 18th century, it is now a bustling hotel with two on-site restaurants (one for continental cuisine, one for Spanish-influenced dishes) and a sunset-worthy rooftop bar in the shape of Capella ( rooms start from £280, hyatt.com).
When to visit
Although Panama is warm all year round, the season from January through April has blue skies, slightly less sweltering heat, and a lower chance of rain (which, when it comes, pours down). Although the prices are higher, we recommend that you travel then.
How to get there
For flights to Panama City you often have to travel via an intermediate city: you can fly via Paris with Air France or via Amsterdam with KLM.