Spending the summer in a city sounds more like hell than a vacation, pulverized by heat rays bouncing between metallic skyscrapers and choked by a cloud of polluting exhaust fumes. But not all urban centers fit the industrialized, overcrowded stereotype.
In the Baltic and Nordic regions, cities surrounded by lakes, fjords and forests are naturally beautiful. Temperatures are also cooler, but still warm enough to warrant t-shirts, shorts or even a two-piece.
At higher latitudes, the days are also delightfully long, making it possible to enjoy more hours of sunshine than anywhere else, as a long twilight gives way to dawn. By contrast, summers are short – generally ending in early September – but residents make the most of every minute with festivals, concerts, open-air food markets and water activities.
With many of these alternative cities located in archipelagos or within easy reach of the coast, it’s possible to combine a beach, wilderness and cultural holiday in one – redefining the concept of an urban escape. Set your compasses north for our pick of the five coolest options this summer.
Oslo
Norway’s healthy urban heart, filled with more trees than traffic, combines the joys of country living with the conveniences of a city. Find rooftop beehives and allotments beside dual carriageways in an eco-conscious capital that strives to net zero in 2030. Beautifully green, 74 percent of the surface is covered with forests, climbing hills and islands in the Oslofjord.
Take the tram to Ekebergparken Sculpture Park for the best panoramic walks and a chance to see Stone Age rock carvings alongside modern artwork. Get even better views of the skyline from a kayak, cruise boat, floating sauna – or by diving in for a quick dip.
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Explore the archipelago on an island-hopping fjord cruise; an Oslo Pass gives you unlimited travel. Swim off the western side of Hovedoya, the closest island. In the city centre, Mad Goats runs kayak and packraft river trips from Mathallen to the Opera House. Hike to the top of Vettakollen mountain with When In Norway for a drone view of the capital and beyond.
A dose of culture
Nature is the central theme for Trembling Earth, an exhibition of works by Norway’s greatest master at the Munch Museum. Until August 25.
The perfect picnic spot
A green belt of parkland hugs the Akerselva River in the central Vulkan area. Pick up gourmet goodies at Mathallen Food Hall.
Stay here
Enjoy sunset views from the rooftop restaurant and pool at the Art Deco Hotel Sommerro.
Stockholm
Swedes make the most of the long, warm nights, singing, dancing and partying their way through the festive season. A mosaic of central islands light up with festivals and open-air markets, and green spaces sparkle with wildflowers.
There is always a fresh sea breeze blowing from the Baltic Sea, where more than 30,000 islands form the Stockholm archipelago, easily explored by ferry. In less than an hour, it is possible to be fully immersed in nature, kayaking, swimming or hiking through forests sparkling with edible berries. Two weeks behind the mainland in terms of climate, summer here lasts a little longer.
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Cycle through parkland and the city’s highest concentration of museums and galleries on Djurgården, a former summer retreat for royals. Pick up bikes from Rent-a-bike on Strandvägen. Cool off with a swim, beach hop between islands in the city centre: Tantobadet in Södermalm is ideal for families, while Långholmen has cosy romantic bays.
A dose of culture
Listen to fairy tales and science in the background of classical music at the Baltic Sea Festival, from 23 to 31 August in the Berwaldhallen concert hall.
The perfect picnic spot
For lofty views of the city, Ivar Lo’s Park on Södermalm is a local favorite. The nearby Kaffebar, beloved by author Stieg Larsson, sells takeaway coffee and pastries.
Stay here
A Riviera-style resort for chic urbanistas, Ellery Beach House on Lidingo is a 20-minute drive from the city. Pose, party, dine and take a dip.
Copenhagen
Life revolves around the water in this canal city, especially when the sun is shining. Areas along the metropolitan harbour are safe for swimming, paddleboarding and kayaking. Dive into the harbour baths and special bathing areas, or head to the northern suburb of Bellevue for a sandy beach and iconic modernist architecture by Arne Jacobsen.
Street food trucks and food markets are popping up all over the city, offering a low-fi, more affordable way to sample the Danish capital’s hallowed New Nordic cuisine. Find a good selection at Tivoli Gardens theme park, which wallows in childhood nostalgia at this time of year.
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Be a truly responsible tourist on a water cleanup tour with GreenKayak, where you get free use of a boat in exchange for cleaning up litter. Hard work is rewarded with a swim in clean water; try La Banchina restaurant on Refshaleøen, which has a private bathing area.
A dose of culture
Celebrate two decades of the New Nordic Food Manifesto at the gastronomic festival Copenhagen Cooking, August 16–25.
The perfect picnic spot
The harbourside Opera Park, which opened last year, has six gardens representing different regions of the world. Grab street food from top New Nordic chefs at nearby Broen Gadekøkken.
Stay here
A recently opened rooftop bar makes the NH Collection a sizzling summer option. You’ll find it in Christianshavn, next to the waterfront.
Tallinn
The capital of Estonia, once prized as a summer residence by Russian tsars, has lost none of its majesty. Elegant parks and promenades invite you to take relaxing walks, while the largely car-free cobbled streets of the old town are made for strolling. Climb to the lookouts along the walls to look down on centuries of history; Kiek in de Kök and Dikke Margareta Tower offer the best views. More stories from the past are told in the open-air museums Viimsi and Estland. Ancient forests, rivers and hiking trails through 10,000-year-old marshes adorn the area, all of which can be done on an active day trip.
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Relax with a raspberry prosecco sorbet at La Muu Ice Cream Factory in Telliski and browse the galleries and boutiques in this industrial area that has been transformed into a creative hub. End the day with a daring climb to the roof of the TV tower for views of the land and sea.
A dose of culture
See opera, ballet and modern dance in the ruins of the 15th-century Pirita Monastery during the Birgitta Festival. August 7-11.
The perfect picnic spot
Kalamaja Park, a 16th-century cemetery, is now a scenic nature reserve. Along the way, you can pick up snacks from a selection of 300 traders at the Balti Jaam Market.
Stay here
Watch the ships sail by from an urban waterfront hut at Iglupark Igluhuts. You can also opt to rent a sauna.
Helsinki
Finns are a notoriously introverted bunch, but as temperatures rise, so does their confidence. To make up for lost daylight hours, everyone is spending as much time as possible outdoors – in forests, lakes and by the sea. All of these natural environments are on the doorstep of Helsinki, a city surrounded by an archipelago of 300 islands.
During the summer months, ferries operate across the Gulf of Finland, taking passengers to lipstick – seasonal cafes and kiosks that have been flourishing since the 1920s. Public waterfront saunas are also bustling with activity; try Allas Sea for organised pools, Loyly for cool architecture and Lonna for a trendy local hangout.
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From nudist beaches to architectural gems, there are plenty of options for swimming. The swimming stadium in Eläintarha, built in the 1940s for the Olympics and used as a herring shop during World War II, is a design classic. The retro changing rooms on the island of Pihlajasaari provide a postcard backdrop.
A dose of culture
Flow celebrates its 20th anniversary and combines music, art, dining and debate at the most daring festival in the Nordic countries. From 9 to 11 August.
The perfect picnic spot
Shop for delicacies in the Old Market Hall and walk a few minutes to the quay for the ferry to the fortress island of Suomenlinna.
Stay here
The courtyard with fountains is the ideal place for al fresco dining at Helsinki’s first true five-star hotel, Hotel Maria.