The centuries-old plane trees dotting St. Tropez’s famous Place des Lices added a welcome splash of green to this square, their dappled shade drawing an intricate patchwork of shadows across the dusty ground.
However, my focus was clearly elsewhere. I concentrated hard as I curled my fingers around a metal ball the size of a plum and used my wrist to send it flying into the air. Around me, groups of locals were seriously doing the same thing – albeit with considerably more panache.
But in this corner of France, the game of pétanque is less a pastime than a way of life.
Tasting such a Provençal tradition seemed like a logical choice during a trip along this stretch of the Côte d’Azur with the luxury French cruise line Ponant. Only a few days earlier I had boarded the three-masted schooner Le Ponant, whose graceful profile stood out among the brash megayachts lined up in Nice’s beautiful harbor.
As we set out on a journey along the beautiful rugged coastline towards the pretty former fishing village of Cassis, our captain ordered the engines to be turned off and the sails to be deployed which crept up the masts to catch the strong sea breeze.
This was sailing at its authentic best – but life on Le Ponant brought something more: a distinctive French flavour. A certain je ne sais quoi, if you will.
Because you see, French cruise lines – and indeed French cruise passengers – have turned holidays at sea into an art form. For the French, a cruise is a highly refined experience, peppered with refined service, chic, understated ensembles and varied intellectual pursuits.
And while Ponant’s fleet of fourteen small ships and yachts attracts an increasingly international audience (Americans account for about 25 percent; 50 percent comes from Europe, while the French-speaking market accounts for about a third of that), it remains an excellent example of this chic seafaring family tree.
Built in 1991, Le Ponant was the first member of the Ponant fleet and is the oldest ship in the company’s line-up – not that you would know it. Like the archetypal, well-preserved Parisienne, this grand-mère of the waves is pristine (although, like many of them, she has had a helping hand: an extensive renovation from bow to stern, completed in 2022).
On board you will find immaculate teak terraces and elegant interiors by French designers Studio Jean-Philippe Nuel in muted tones, with bleached wood, leather and sophisticated, fashionable artwork carefully placed throughout. The majority of the crew are French and the sailings are fully bilingual. Le Ponant is so refined that in 2023 it became the first sailing yacht to join Relais & Châteaux.
The revamp reduced the number of staterooms to 16, and with it the number of guests to just 32 – meaning sailings now feel more like exclusive floating house parties than commercial cruises. It is no surprise that the yacht is often privately chartered by wealthier guests looking for a luxury holiday destination for the whole family.
That sense of convivial camaraderie was evident repeatedly during my recent sailing trip – especially as we cheered on those who chose to dive off the marina deck and into the cold, Mediterranean waters of Le Ponant’s floating pool in the cut in early summer. Meanwhile, others paddled away on kayaks and paddleboards, or made use of the yacht’s snorkeling and diving equipment.
Like any self-respecting French establishment, there is also a strong emphasis on gastronomy. Of course, good wines play a role – and are largely included in the price, although oenophiles wanting a more exclusive experience can choose from a wine list where all but two varieties came from France, led by five types of champagne (although the most expensive drink was floral Bordeaux, Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion for a whopping €835 – or £710 – per bottle).
And the food? The French cruise passenger doesn’t bother with the buffet – and since Ponant’s chefs train at the culinary school founded by Michelin-star chef Alain Ducasse, they don’t have to worry.
That said, those who prefer not to navigate the sometimes choppy waters of experimental French cuisine (for example the “Tunisian egg stone”, which turned out to be a square of filo pastry with herbs and egg, or the “exotic fruit salad”, which was only diced melon leek) may be grateful for the comfort of afternoon crepes suzette, freshly prepared on deck, and the rainbow-colored assortment of macarons that greeted us when we returned from shore excursions.
Every evening we gathered on the sundeck, bathed in the golden glow of the evening light for an aperitif, indulging in cocktails and champagne and, on one occasion, tasting delicious slices of Iberian ham, freshly sliced.
In St Tropez we ended a walking tour in the most indulgent way possible: with chilled glasses of French rosé and a plate full of fresh cheese, served amid the fragrant blooms of the city’s flower market in the morning sun.
Earlier we followed Le Ponant’s chef deep into the old town for the fish market – the Passage de la Poissonnerie – where, as a reminder of St. Tropez’s rustic origins, fishermen still come every morning to sell their catch under the old arcades.
As our sail drew to a close, I snuck into the pocket-sized spa – run in partnership with Paris-based skincare professionals Biologique Recherche – in search of a massage. Although the price of my hour-long treatment (£125) was typical of most cruise spas, I was pleasantly surprised to find that no tip was expected, nor any pushy sales pitch about products. Perhaps strange, but of the many benefits of cruising à la française, this was one of the most unexpected – and most welcome.
Essentials
Sara Macefield was a guest of Ponant (020 7660 4089; uk.ponant.com), which is offering sailings to Le Ponant in Croatia this summer between August and October, with a week-long return trip from Dubrovnik with stops in Korcula, Hvar and more , Vis and Brac. From £8,280 pp for a departure on August 18, all-inclusive. Flights extra.