My first impressions of Venice as I leave the Ponte della Libertà, the bridge spanning the lagoon from La Serenissima to the Domini di Terraferma, are not very promising, as I drive past the giant refineries of the mainland’s petrochemical industry, then the immense skeleton of a mega-cruise ship under construction in vast maritime shipyards. But after 20 minutes, the verdant countryside suddenly gives way to built-up suburbs as my bus pulls in along the winding banks of the Naviglio del Brenta, the last section of the mighty Brenta River that engineers had made “navigable” as a canal in the 16th century.
This rural paradise, known as the Riviera del Brenta, was where Venice’s wealthy nobility sought to escape the heat and bustle of the city by building palatial retreats by the water. Magnificent villas sprang up with gardens designed by Antonio Palladio and his protégés, decorated with stunning frescoes by the likes of Giovanni Tiepolo.
Today, the Riviera is experiencing a renaissance, becoming a slow-paced eco-destination; more travelers are choosing to avoid the daily tourist onslaught of Venice and stay here, in affordable accommodations that range from friendly campsites to rustic agriturismos, family-run B&Bs to luxurious restored villas. The entire Riviera, which stretches 25 miles from Stra outside Padua, is connected by the trusty 53E bus, and I booked a waterfront hideaway for a lazy weekend of hiking, biking and sailing.
The bus stops just outside the picturesque town of Dolo, about halfway along the Riviera, and it’s a pleasant 25-minute walk to the Dimora Naviglio (doubles from €96 B&B), a tiny 18th-century worker’s cottage right on the water. It’s home to Gianluca Maggiori, who created three guest rooms in 2017. Venetian Gianluca is on a mission to convince tourists to discover a new world of attractions on the Riviera del Brenta. He runs his own travel and bike rental company, while B&B guests are provided with a bike to use during their stay.
Behind the facades of the opulent villas were working farms and vineyards whose produce was shipped to Venice
Gianluca tells me: “The guests who left this morning are typical of the new kind of travellers we see here. They didn’t want the hassle of visiting Venice, the crowds and now the entrance tickets. They came here to discover our countryside, an unspoilt environment, the cultural history of the riverside villas and the traditional Veneto cuisine and wines served in our village. Osteria.”
Gianluca is a goldmine of information and tips, even for a first-time hike in Dolo. Just down the road is the little-known 16th-century Villa Badoer Fattoretto, whose owner has created a fascinating museum chronicling daily farm life here; behind the facades of the opulent villas were working farms and vineyards whose produce was shipped to Venice. There’s still a farmers’ cooperative next door, the Cantina Riviera del Brenta, where it’s impossible to resist stocking up on artisanal sausages, honey and cheeses, plus a litre of local wine straight from the tap.
The ancient harbour of Dolo stretches across both sides of the Brenta, a maze of locks and bridges, a traditional shipyard and a beautifully preserved mill that has remained unchanged since Canaletto immortalised the landscape in the 1730s. The mill is now a chic winery And while it’s not the cheapest place in town for a glass of prosecco, it does offer breathtaking sunset views.
Wherever I stop along the Brenta, there is activity on the water: locals stand up, Venetian style, to row their gondola-like boats
For dinner, Gianluca recommends the waterfront Osteria da Caronte, which has been serving dishes like spaghetti with clams (€12) and tender squid stewed in its own black ink (€15) for over a century.
From the B&B, a gentle five-mile cycle ride along the riverbank leads to Stra, whose stately Villa Pisani is the jewel in the crown of the Brenta Riviera. It has a breathtaking Tiepolo ceiling fresco, whose clouds seem to sweep you away, plus ornamental ponds, gardens and even a maze. It’s spectacular, and just around the corner. I was even more impressed by the Villa Foscarini Rossi, home to the Rossi family’s shoe museum, one of many old artisanal businesses along the Brenta. Although it’s now owned by global luxury brand LMVH, which also produces Dior accessories nearby, its collection of 1,500 shoes showcases Lacroix, YSL, Pucci and Fendi. At the back of the villa, I explore a large old farm building, the villas barchessaonce used to store grain and wine barrels, but still decorated with frescoes. The high hall is now popular for weddings and baptisms.
Wherever I stop along the Brenta, there is activity on the water: locals rowing Venetian-style in their gondola-like boats, younger enthusiasts on paddleboards, kayaks, canoes and private boats chugging along. At Stra I share a plate of tasty sluts (Venetian tapas) at the sporty Cicloosteria with Giacomo Bozzolan, who takes tourists on his PinnaGialla eco-kayak tour. “I didn’t want to just rent our kayaks and let people explore on their own,” he says. “So our 90-minute tour is led by myself or one of our guides, who explains the natural habitat, the history of the villas, flora and fauna, the historical agricultural activities here. All viewed from the water, which gives a unique perspective.”
After passing the picturesque village of Mira and its magnificent Villa Widmann, I make a final stop at the Riviera’s other crown jewel, Villa Foscari, known as La Malcontenta. This is a much more minimalist, almost majestic masterpiece built by Palladio as a summer retreat for the Foscari family. And the stars of the show are hidden inside, a series of stunning 16th-century frescoes alongside a striking contemporary sculpture created 450 years later by architect Zaha Hadid.
From Malcontenta, a 10-minute bus ride through the wetlands brings me back to the lagoon, where vaporetto number 16 from Fusina crosses the water all the way to Venice. Not quite the style of the royal burchiello boats that ferried the Venetian nobility back and forth to the Riviera, yet a slow, peaceful return to the bustle of La Serenissima.