There are an inordinate number of products on the market that are meant to create a radiant, glowing complexion. The kind of complexion that smells of health, happiness, and the great outdoors. It’s the holy grail of makeup for most of us, so it’s no wonder that, according to Pinterest, searches for “dewy, radiant makeup” are up 185 percent. It’s not to be confused with the “glass skin” look favored by TikTok teens in recent years, which can come off as overdone and overly shiny instead of a more subtle, expensive sheen.
Poster girl for the underdone, lit-from-within glow, Sienna Miller recently shared her skincare routine on Instagram, making her radiant complexion look as covetable as the M&S broderie anglaise blouse and cropped jeans she rocked at the start of summer. Sienna dabbed and spritzed on a range of six different skincare products (all Charlotte Tilbury) to achieve her just-back-from-holiday glow.
Is it that easy? I asked A-list makeup artist Caroline Barnes for her tips on how to achieve the Sienna glow on midlife skin without having to wade through a mountain of skincare products.
Here are the seven tips I learned to create gorgeous, effortless, glowy makeup for over-40s skin.
1. Exfoliate
“Smooth skin is key,” says Barnes. “Rough skin doesn’t reflect light, so gentle exfoliation, ideally daily, will mean your skin looks more radiant. A smooth surface catches and reflects light more than a dull surface. As we age, our cell turnover slows down, so using a gentle exfoliant like Medik 8 Press and Glow Tonic can really transform the look of dull skin. It’s formulated with PHA (polyhydroxy acid), which is gentler than AHA (alpha hydroxy acid). You swipe it on with a cotton pad every morning and it makes a lovely smooth base for makeup.”
Medik 8 Press and Glow Tonic, £9, spacenk.com
2. Don’t overhydrate
Barnes cautions against using a moisturizer that’s too rich, because by the time you apply SPF on top, the effect can look too shiny. “I usually use an SPF instead of a separate moisturizer to keep the face from looking too shiny. You only want shine on the high points of the face, like cheekbones, bridge of the nose and temples, not everywhere else,” she advises. “La Roche Posay’s mattifying Oil Control Fluid SPF 50 is a flattering makeup base — and you won’t end up with a shiny chin or upper lip.”
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La Roche Posay’s Mattifying Oil Control Fluid SPF 50, £20, boots.com
3. Use a primer
“Skin primers can be great for skin 40+,” says Barnes, “either worn alone, as a replacement for foundation, or as a first step before makeup. They even out redness, blur imperfections like pigmentation, and give skin a lovely velvety-soft quality.” Her favorite is Vita Liberata Beauty Blur Face, which has been around for years and adds a glow but not a shine.
“It gives the skin a nice 10 denier finish. It neutralizes redness, so it’s good for people with rosacea, and adds warmth. I like to apply it with my fingertips (like I do with all tinted moisturizers) to avoid any spillage, and then you can always buff it in with a brush once it’s on the skin to get a velvety sheen.”
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Vita Liberata Beauty Blur Face, £33, vitaliberata.com
4. Try a light diffuser powder
Like fine tailoring, the right powder can make you look more put together—and help your makeup stay put a little longer, too. One of the best is undoubtedly Sweed Beauty Miracle Powder. It’s a mineral powder that comes in a great range of shades for all skin tones and can be used in place of foundation or over the top to set your makeup.
Beauty editors in the know all use it, and say it gives skin a soft-focus effect. Makeup artist and founder of Sweed Beauty, Gabriella Elio, tells me that it’s, unsurprisingly, one of the best-sellers in the range. “Number three is the shade to choose for that ‘golden hour’ effect you get from being on holiday,” she confides.
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Swedish Beauty Wonder Powder, £35, cultbeauty.com
5. Avoid sparkle
“After a certain age, it’s best to avoid anything shiny on the face,” says Barnes. “Glitter particles can settle into lines and accentuate them,” she explains, “so go for a matte balm like Makeup by Mario’s Softsculpt Transforming Skin Perfector . It has a buttery consistency and makes your skin look flawless. The colors are warm caramels and are gorgeous this time of year when our skin is a little warm.”
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Mario’s Softsculpt Transforming Skin Perfector Makeup, £35, sephora.nl
6. Don’t forget the eyes
“Eye makeup should be kept to a minimum for this natural look,” says Barnes, “but most of us over 40 will need a little help to disguise puffiness, dark circles or fine lines. Delilah’s Wake Up Radiant Eye Perfector is a genius product. It’s a serum with clever light-diffusing particles that instantly improve the quality of your under-eye skin and make you look more awake. Everyone I’ve used it on, from Kylie and Cat Deeley to Sheryl Crow, has loved it.”
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Delilah’s Wake Up Radiant Eye Perfector, £28, delilahcosmetics.com
7. Try a liquid highlighter
When you don’t feel like using powders, bronzers or primers, a liquid highlighter is without a doubt the easiest way to make your complexion glow.
One of the best is Westman Atelier’s Liquid Super Loaded Drops. Makeup artist Gucci Westman told the lab that she wanted a product that would mimic the radiant look you get when you fall in love or get engaged. “The color comes from micro-pearls, which give a very delicate sheen. You can mix it with moisturizer and apply it anywhere without it looking makeup-y, giving your skin an ethereal finish,” she told me.
I like to dab it on foundation or bare skin, on cheekbones and temples, to give the impression that you just had ten hours of sleep and a shot of espresso. Apply it lightly with your fingers and massage it in. That’s all you need.
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Liquid Super Loaded Drops from Westman Atelier, £53, spacenk.com