Zermatt offers a magical combination of just about everything you could expect in a ski resort. All avid skiers should make the pilgrimage there at least once in their lives. Yes, it’s expensive (like all Swiss resorts) – but it’s definitely worth scrimping and saving.
I first visited on a day trip from Saas-Fee in 1985 and was hooked by the fantastic, high, snow-sure slopes, beautiful long descents amid breathtaking scenery, excellent mountain restaurants and the charming car-free village.
Since then I have returned more than a dozen times, often for a week’s holiday with friends and my non-skiing wife. They all loved it too – here’s why.
Snow-sure slopes and heli-skiing
Zermatt’s own slopes include several spectacular peaks in four main sectors and are also linked to the ski resort of Cervinia in Italy – with a total of over 360km of pistes. There’s skiing for all levels – including a great little beginner area, easy blue runs, lots of long red and challenging black runs and unpiped ski routes.
It is also very snow-sure, with many descents of more than 2,500 meters, a large glacier area and extensive snow cannons. I have been there many times in late March and have never had bad snow – a promise that is becoming increasingly rare in the Alps.
Unique to Europe, there is also a large heli-ski operation. The descent from 4,200 meters on the Monte Rosa glacier is one of the best in the world; it takes skiers away from all the lifts through a dramatic glacial landscape. It is 16 km long and takes three to four hours to complete.
World famous views at your fingertips
When I first visited Zermatt, the lift system was very fragmented, even by 80s standards. Buses or taxis were needed between some sectors. Furthermore, to get between two of the peaks you had to walk along a narrow path with a steep slope on one side and a rope to hang on to on the other, while your skis were transported in a cable car box. How different it is now.
With powerful gondolas, cable cars and high-speed chairlifts efficiently connecting all sectors, even pedestrians can travel comfortably from Zermatt across the international border to Cervinia and back.
Zermatt’s trademark and logo is the spectacular Matterhorn mountain. It can be seen from the entire ski area and most of the village. To see it in all its glory, I like to take the scenic cog railway up from the village to Gornergrat – sit on the right for uninterrupted views of this magical mountain for the 30-minute journey.
Just as breathtaking are the astonishing views of glaciers and gorges from Gornergrat and on the gondola ride from Trockener Steg (2,940 m) to the Klein Matterhorn (3,880 m) – this time sit on the left for a front row seat.
The best mountain restaurants in the world
Eating lunch in Zermatt is a big deal and there are more than 50 mountain huts to choose from, most with old, cozy wooden interiors and large terraces with beautiful views of the Matterhorn. My favorites are Chez Vrony and Findlerhof (also known as Franz and Heide’s) below Sunegga, Fluhalp (higher up in an isolated location on the slopes, often with live music on the huge terrace) and the small Zum See below Furi.
They all serve traditional Swiss dishes, but specialize in delicious (and expensive) gourmet dishes, including duck, lamb and often fish. I also like the Italian food at Al Bosco on Riffelalp. Reservations are essential everywhere – after all, this is one of the most popular resorts in the world.
For something simpler, it’s hard to beat the 10 types of rösti (fried grated potatoes), served with different meats, eggs and cheese at Restaurant Furri in Furi.
Endless charm
Before arriving in one of the most beautiful corners of the Alps, drivers must leave their car in the village of Tasch, about 6 km from Zermatt, and travel the rest of the journey by train. You leave the station and are met by electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages that will take you to your accommodation.
The village is car-free and that largely determines its charming appeal. The buildings are a mix of old chalets and barns, grand 19th-century hotels and modern addresses, mostly in traditional style, but some decidedly funky. The oldest, most charming area has narrow alleys and old wooden shops and stables with slate roofs, many supported by posts to keep out the mice – built in the 16th century.e to 18e centuries, they are unique to resorts, such as Zermatt, that have stood the test of time.
Don’t miss the Matterhorn Museum, which tells the story of the first ascent of the mighty mountain in 1865, led by Englishman Edward Whymper. Tragically, four of the seven members of his climbing party died on the way down. This year the museum has a special exhibition about 125 years of the Gornergrat railway.
Final verdict
Simply put, no other Swiss resort can compete with the Zermatt ski area in terms of size and variety of slopes. And none have such top-notch mountain menus. Of the areas that offer a similar size and variety of slopes, Davos and St. Moritz are more likely to be villages or towns and have a very urban feel; Plus, they both have several separate ski areas instead of one linked map.
Verbier has a lot of great terrain for experienced skiers, but much less for beginners and experts. I have always noticed that the village lacks soul and character. If you’re looking for the ultimate Swiss ski vacation, you can’t beat its most famous outpost.
Must know
My favorite hotel in Zermatt is the four-star Hotel Alex: centrally located, wonderfully quirky decor, good food, large swimming pool, saunas, steam bath, indoor tennis and squash. From £2,045 per person, for two sharing a room for a week, with Ski Solutions (020 3918 7901) including flights, Swiss Rail transfers and half board.
When vacationing at the resort, I love the First Track experience – on Mondays and Thursdays you can climb up the mountain at 7:40 am and enjoy deserted, freshly groomed slopes for about an hour before the crowds arrive. The price of CHF44 (approximately £40) includes accompanying ski guides and breakfast on the mountain after skiing.
Plan the perfect ski holiday in Zermatt with our expert guide.