We’re winding up a wild mountain road in Tuscany at dusk, when out of nowhere a deer hits our taxi with a resounding thud.
We are startled, but not as much as the deer, who gratefully shakes it off and runs away, but the encounter is a surefire reminder that we are deep in nature.
It’s already a 45-minute drive from Pistoia train station to the gates of the Oasi Dynamo Nature Reserve – driving would be easier, but since our destination is an eco-resort, it seems rude not to try public transport. Now we’re on the second leg, a long, winding drive along the remote road through the nature reserve to the Oasy Hotel, billed as a luxury eco-lodge.
It’s quite a red welcome, and gives our arrival the ominous atmosphere of a folk horror film. Fortunately this is quickly dispelled by the warmth and charm of our welcome once we finally reach reception.
The hotel is led by general manager Federico Galligani, a local who has returned to his home village after a long stint abroad, including at the Savoy in London. Under his keen eye, the service has all the smooth efficiency and behind-the-scenes magic you’d expect in one of Europe’s grand hotels, combined with local charm, thanks to Galligani’s drive to employ and train local young people wherever possible.
The exodus of young people from the city in Italy is well documented, but a jobs and training drive shows that the resort is viewing sustainability through human and economic as much as an environmental lens.
Our lodge is a short walk away, along a green path through the refreshing spring air to a charred wooden hut with a deck cleverly angled to give the feeling of being alone in nature.
It is a certain kind of luxury that is available here, the luxury of the location, waking up to birdsong without having to touch anything resembling a tent, attentive, intuitive service and every whim being catered to.
But it is still in the middle of nowhere and is determined to live up to its ecological characteristics as much as possible. There’s no pool, no TV in the rooms (although there is a small cinema) and no spa to speak of – a treatment room with excellent massages meets the wellness requirements.
The design is simple, almost spartan – the focus here is on the outside world rather than opulent interiors – but the rooms are nevertheless comfortable, cocooning and equipped with everything needed for a few days immersed in nature.
And youth hostel, campsite, or, god forbid, Center Parcs, this isn’t it. We’re talking stylish clear wood treatment for floor, wall and ceiling, well-designed lighting, plenty of space for two with a bedroom, separate living room, private terrace and a good bathroom.
There is no question of a holiday park here, even though we have a packed activities program to look forward to.
But first dinner. The good news is that sustainable and delicious are a very viable combination these days: no punitive plates or glasses supplied the entire journey, just the tastiest, vegetarian local ingredients, expertly prepared and presented.
A proof of origin is available for anyone who makes cheese, one of the many activities on offer for guests, child-friendly but also recommended for adults. This happens in the farmhouse, where formaggio-pounding nonna Maria, who makes all the cheeses served at the hotel, leads a no-nonsense Italian lesson (with one of the young guides on hand to translate).
She walks us through the process of pasteurization, separating the curds and whey and then it’s time to get started with our own cheese wheel, which is vacuum packed for travel, along with clear instructions for ripening at home of our cheeses.
Fortified by a multi-course, vegetarian-friendly dinner, plus Tuscan wine (much of it organic, even if the local vintners are too stubbornly Italian to officially label them as such, sighs Galligani) we stagger back to our cabin to sleep like the dead.
That’s a good thing, because we have a wildlife tour planned before breakfast. Paola, our fully trained geoguide, warns us: “If we see a wild boar and it has young, run as fast as you can.”
It’s a valiant attempt to add some frisson to a dull but otherwise very beautiful sunrise trek through the forest – our early encounter with the so-called roadkill deer ends up being our closest encounter with the reserve’s wildlife.
In fact, we hardly see any other guests, except at breakfast – a full Italian buffet with homemade pastries, cheese, jam and more.
We kayak on the lake with only the charming hotel staff for company, who bring us spritzes and a ‘picnic’, a heavily loaded wooden box filled with an assortment of sandwiches, salads, fruit skewers and cake and then leave us to our own devices.
Yoga in the forest is a private affair with the yoga teacher on site. The campfire after dinner consists of just us, the stars and a few glasses of red wine.
The reserve (a former metallurgical society turned hunting reserve and now WWF oasis) is a 900 hectare refuge of mountains, meadows and forests and offers a real chance to unwind and explore nature , whether on foot, by e-bike or, if reserved in advance, on horseback.
The good news is that it is destined to stay that way. There are plans to expand, but options are limited: the 16 existing cabins are on the landline and have no room for more, while there are plans to renovate a number of villas for rental. Excitingly, the concept could be expanded to other WWF reserves in Italy. Watch this space.
Oasyhotel is open from the end of March to the end of October. Says from €400 per lodge per night on a bed and breakfast basis, including access to the minibar, use of e-bikes, access to private lake and water sports and valet parking oasyhotel.com