Tour guide Tuula Kleiman lovingly recalls a childhood memory and describes the good old days when people painted the soles of their feet with tar. She claims it was an excellent form of protection and muses nostalgically about the thick, sticky residue created by the decomposing pine wood, which is now used to smoke saunas and even flavor food.
Some of the strangest things raise a smile in Finland, a country where misery often blurs with cheerfulness and introversion is an accepted norm. But this nation of unusual overthinkers must be on to something, as they have just topped the World Happiness Report for the seventh year in a row.
Ranked by economic and social factors such as GDP, health care and the extent of civil liberties, 143 countries feature in the annual feel-good index sponsored by the UN. Life expectancy, perceptions of corruption and the ability to laugh also play a role.
But despite their multiple victories, most Finns are perplexed and amused by the award. After all, these are the same people who get into heavy metal and repeatedly balk at the idea of having to share a seat on a public bus.
They are melancholic and gloomy, indulge in pessimism and are often plagued by disbelief and self-doubt. Moomin character Too-Ticky speaks for a nation in Tove Jansson’s bleak Moominland Midwinter when she confesses: “All things are so uncertain. And that is exactly what reassures me.”
On the surface, Finns aren’t exactly happy campers, so what about a country known for frowning? which is just a neutral expression”) managed to eventually become the happiest place on earth?
“There is something very special about our forests,” says outdoor enthusiast and fitness coach Lassi Katajarinne, who guides activities in the Nuuksio national park, a 35-minute drive from the capital Helsinki. “Every time I come here I smile.”
More than 75 percent of Finland is covered in forests – more than any country in Europe – including protected areas in 41 national parks. From the sound of an owl’s wingbeat to the rustle of autumn leaves underfoot, there’s a soothing soundtrack for every season, accompanied by the clear health benefits of breathing fresh air, reducing anxiety and improving mood.
“Walking in the forest significantly improves your physical health and posture,” emphasizes Lassi. “By stepping over logs and uneven surfaces, we shorten our steps, bend our knees, and distribute our weight more evenly.”
In the northern part of Lapland, long summer days can last for hours, providing an opportunity to supplement with mood-boosting vitamin D. But even in winter, when the sun barely hovers above the horizon, a combination of glimmering snow cover and electrifying Aurora displays keep dark thoughts at bay.
During the Covid lockdowns, Finns made even more use of their green areas for sports Jokamiehen oikeudet (Everyman’s Rights) – the freedom to roam and camp in wild areas, encounter elk, lynx, wolverines and foxes, or search for fresh food.
According to herbalist and biologist Anna Nyman, who can easily identify the two hundred edible mushrooms that grow in Finland, the wild food movement has allowed humans to develop a deeper connection with nature, literally bringing them back to their earthy, woodsy roots.
She fills her basket with buttery yellow chanterelles and thick-stemmed porcini mushrooms, defending the self-sufficiency earned by “the ability to survive if the food system were ever to collapse.”
“I never go to a supermarket,” she proudly declares, emphasizing the value of reviving forgotten skills. “We should never lose the wonderful knowledge that our grandmothers gave us.”
With around 22 million trunks spreading their branches towards the sky, there are 4,500 trees for every person in Finland’s 5.5 million population. In a country 1.4 times bigger than Britain – but with a twelfth of the human population – this means there’s plenty of room to move.
In a place where social distancing was an art form long before Covid, personal space is sacred. The absence of chaotic crowds and noisy traffic immediately puts people in a better mood.
One notable exception, however, is the sauna – a place so culturally important that it is given more reverence than a church. People gossip, debate and share stories in lakeside cabins, revealing much more than they ever would in everyday life.
The feeling of freedom is as refreshing as a dip in ice-cold water and energizing, which explains why there are more than two million saunas attached to public resorts, summer houses and private homes.
The ability to switch off is the real key to unlocking happiness, allowing Finns to fine-tune a healthy work-life balance.
They shy away from extremes and may lack the bravado of loud Brazilians or the passion of emphatic Italians. Instead, they have subtly struck gold by finding solace in silence and satisfaction in the finer details of life.
“He who is happy must hide it,” advised the 19th-century poet Eino Leino. And so far, the humble Finns are doing just that.
Five cheerful ways to experience Finland
Forest bathing in the Nuuksio National Park
From families in search of fresh berries to professional explorers preparing for expeditions to the South Pole, a wide variety of people take advantage of this accessible pocket of wilderness in Espoo. Stay at Haltia Lake Lodge, the only boutique accommodation, with a choice of cozy rooms or glamping tents. Book a tour with mushroom specialist Anna Nyman and go hunting for a prized black cornucopia or the pungently smelling milk cap with curry. Where The Wild Is (wherethewildis.co.uk; 0117 450 7980) offers a seven-day Helsinki & Luxury Lodge Adventure, combining a stay in the city with Nuuksio from £2,690 per person.
Sleep with bears in the Taiga Forest
Although smaller and shyer than their cousins in Canada and Alaska, the European brown bear is still an impressive sight. You’ll find them meandering among larch forests and clear, wavy lakes along Finland’s northeastern border, where hides are strategically placed for the best viewing opportunities. Upgrade the comfort level by staying in new, heated, glass-fronted cabins, where it’s possible to view animals while in bed. Go for cotton grass carpets with rabbit tails in April or choose September for autumn colours. Wildlife Worldwide (wildlifeworldwide.com; 01962 302 086) offers a five-day Brown Bears in Style trip from £2,495 per person, including flights.
Make tracks to sauna capital Tampere
Tampere is the best place to experience traditional sauna culture and has 50 hot houses open to the public. Dive into lakes from wooden platforms or brave a nude session at the country’s oldest site, Rajaportin, built in 1906. In between sweat sessions, visit the excellent Moomin Museum, with original illustrations and tableaus by author and artist Tove Jansson, and stop at craft Pyynikin brewery. Regent Holidays (regent-holidays.co.uk; 01174 530 059) offers an eight-day Finnish Golden Triangle tour, traveling by train between Helsinki, Tampere and Turku from £1,145 per person, including flights.
Island hopping in Lakeland
It’s called the land of a thousand lakes, but almost double that number creates a watery wonderland in eastern Finland. Row to pristine private islands covered in boreal forests, and bask on sun-scorched granite rocks between swims. In Savonlinna, on Lake Saimaa, visit the 15th-century Olavinlinna Castle and continue to the Art & Design Villas in Anttola to sleep in an eco-lodge built of birch and natural stone. Hike or mountain bike along trails and stop at the Ollinmäki wine farm to experiment with berry wines. Best Served Scandinavia (best-served.co.uk; 0207 664 2237) offers an eight-day self-drive summer adventure in the Finnish Lake District from £2,170 per person, including flights.
Camp under the aurora at Lake Inari
High above the Arctic Circle, in an area known for its cloud-free skies, Lake Inari is an excellent location for viewing the Northern Lights. Travel early in the fall to see the displays dance across the water, combining nighttime viewing with daily walks. During the winter months there is a chance to go snowmobiling, snowshoeing or sledding with huskies. For a full aurora experience without braving the cold, sleep in bubble tents with clear 360-degree views. Discover The World (discover-the-world.com; 01737 214 250) offers a three-night Nellim Wilderness Adventure from £1,130 per person, excluding flights.
This story was first published in March 2023 and has been revised and updated.