While it seems like there’s a new trending ingredient in skin care every week, few are really getting beauty insiders excited. But that’s exactly what exosomes have done since scientists discovered that what they thought was waste cell material in the skin is actually beneficial. Very useful actually, because experts believe that these little internal communicators have the ability to take years away from us. Don’t believe us? We asked the experts.
What are exosomes?
Whether it’s acne or pigmentation, it’s become second nature to help our skin through treatments, products and lifestyle choices. But we didn’t know that we also had a helper on the inside delivering important messages and information to cells throughout the body and instructing them to act. “Exosomes are small extracellular vesicles or sacs released by cells into their environment,” explains Dr. David Jack, cosmetic physician and surgeon. “They play a crucial role in cell communication, carrying proteins, lipids and genetic material that instruct other cells to behave in specific ways, encouraging them to regenerate and repair through activities such as increasing collagen production or inhibiting excessive melanin production in areas of hyperpigmentation. ”
With efficiency comparable to platelet-rich plasma (PRP), it is the specificity of exosomes that makes them so effective. “Unlike traditional growth factor treatments that use larger, less specific biomolecules that can only send signals to the cell surface, exosomes can fuse with target cells to deliver their payload directly inside,” says Dr. Jack. “This provides more precise and efficient therapeutic effects, potentially leading to better outcomes.”
What are the benefits of exosomes?
If your goal is to look fresh with plump and glowing skin, then exosomes are definitely for you. But Dr. Marco Nicoloso, medical director of Ouronyx, is quick to add that those who start to notice the time on their skin will see the biggest difference. “As we age, our cells struggle to produce the proteins and enzymes necessary to maintain healthy, supple and balanced skin,” he says. “Exosome therapy helps by producing and stimulating new proteins in the skin, restoring balance and giving it a more youthful appearance. It is also great for those who suffer from rosacea, as exosomes reduce inflammation, revitalize dull skin and help maintain hydration.
While exosome treatments and products can be beneficial for anyone looking for flawless skin, renowned aesthetic physician and entrepreneur Dr. Barbara Sturm believes they are especially beneficial for people experiencing signs of aging, sun damage, loss of collagen and have seen damage from environmental factors. , inflamed skin, scars and hyperpigmentation. “Exosome technology is great for anyone looking for the next level of anti-aging support and superior science in skincare ingredients,” she explains. “Adding exosomes to your skincare routine is likely to be more effective when the body’s natural production of exosomes has already begun to decline, which is usually in the early 30s, and your skin is showing signs of sagging, dullness and loss of elasticity. . However, it will benefit anyone who wants to tackle the common signs of aging.” There is also some evidence that exosomes may help with hair loss by promoting follicle health.
What is better: exosome treatments or products?
Exosomes are still an emerging concept in the beauty world and therefore treatments are reserved exclusively for specialized skin treatments, such as Dr. David Jack in London and Edinburgh, where he offers his ExoTech Exosome Therapy. Here you can expect pre-made exosomes extracted from damascene rose cells to spread onto the skin before a microneedling device is used to create microscopic channels in the dermis of your skin, helping the product to be absorbed more deeply. With little recovery time (some redness will disappear within 24 hours), you can expect results within 48 hours, but collagen production in the dermis will increase by as much as 700 percent over the course of several months. Yes, you read that correctly!
Both Dr. Jack as Dr. Nicoloso advise seeking clinical treatment to reap the benefits of exosomes, with the latter warning that they are “ineffective on their own, as they cannot be absorbed into the skin without prior microneedling or laser treatments”. This step is crucial, he adds, “because exosomes, despite their nanoparticle size, cannot penetrate the skin on their own.” However, he goes on to say that they can be used topically if used in conjunction with clinical treatments. “If you want to use exosomes to supplement your skincare routine and maintenance, I recommend having a treatment and then using the topicals as maintenance in the evening, after a retinoid and before moisturizing. Exosomes can also help boost the effectiveness of other active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, peptides and antioxidants,” he says.
Although arguably more powerful in the clinic, Dr. Sturm, who has several exosome products in her skincare range, discovered a formula to stabilize exosomes so they can actually be used at home. “I created my Exoso-Metic collection with lab-synthesized growth factors that attach to skin cells, stimulating cell communication and signaling cells to initiate renewal and repair processes,” she says. “This supports the skin’s natural rejuvenation mechanisms, resulting in powerful anti-aging benefits including improved firmness, smoother skin texture, reduced fine lines and wrinkles, improved skin tone, increased radiance and reduced pigmentation and age spots.”
As exciting as the new skin care technology is, all experts emphasized the importance of finding a certified practitioner who can perform exosome therapy because it penetrates beyond the skin barrier. Another safety factor that should be emphasized is that exosomes derived from mammals and humans are not safe for cosmetic use. As aesthetic expert Dr Sophie Shotter says: “If the product is derived from human stem cells, it is illegal in this country and cannot be sold or used here.” The lack of regulation in this country unfortunately means that there are such human-derived products on the UK market – but “the reason human-derived exosomes are illegal is because of the potential for DNA transfer; if the donor had a disease or DNA problems, this could be passed on to the patient.” Ergo, in the opinion of Dr. Shotter – and ours – this is not a risk worth taking, “especially when plant-based exosomes work so well.”
If you want to dip your toe into the world of exosomes with a topical product first, try these picks:
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