Samata Pattinson, the CEO and founder of cultural sustainability organization Black Pearl, played a key role in developing the programming for the first-ever culture and entertainment pavilion at COP28 – the 28th United Nations Climate Change Conference held in Dubai in December 2023. program put fashion and culture on the agenda for the first time at COP.
Pattinson hosted multiple panels with representatives from leading luxury brands, including Prada, Gucci and Versace; interviewed Ellie Goulding about climate action during a fireside chat; and hosted the closing event of the COP28 Global Action.
Below, she shares her key findings from the global summit, and what impact this is likely to have on both consumers and the fashion industry as a whole in 2024.
When fashion finally made it onto the agenda at COP28
The UN’s first COP Summit, an annual meeting that brings together stakeholders from around the world to jointly tackle climate change, took place in Berlin in 1995 and has continued annually since then. But despite increased awareness of the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, it has surprisingly remained absent from COP discussions.
For the 2023 edition, however, fashion finally showed up and took their seats at several tables. Majors from the sustainable fashion world came forward to contribute to the conversations taking place in Dubai, from influential names such as Stella McCartney and Ellen MacArthur to pioneering organizations such as Fashion Revolution and the Global Fashion Agenda, along with some of the most forward-thinking brands. -ups and material innovators.
While the overall outcomes of the summit reflected insufficient and slow action to address climate impacts, the discussions highlighted several solutions needed for the transition to a more sustainable fashion industry – from circular solutions such as rental and resale , which offer fashion lovers a way to enjoy new products without exacerbating overconsumption. to brands that prioritize sustainable products and take responsibility for their end of life (known as the Extended Producer Responsibility programme). Broader discussions also focused on the role of policy and investments in increasing positive impact.
But for many, the question remains: why is it crucial that the fashion industry is actively involved in these conversations?
Here are five key fashion tips to remember during the summit:
1/ The fashion industry is too dependent on fossil fuels
We all know that fossil fuels are a big part of the problem, but how many of us are aware of how dependent the fashion industry is on fossil fuels? In addition to the enormous amount of coal and gas used in the production of our clothing, more than 50 percent of our clothing is made from polyester, which is derived from oil. Campaigns such as Fossil Fuel Fashion (championed by Iranian-American social entrepreneur and activist Sophia Kianni) seek to raise awareness of fashion’s dependence on oil and the importance of scalable alternatives to virgin polyester. This is an important topic to follow because it plays a key factor in fashion’s role in mitigating climate change, and the material composition of our clothing will change over time.
2/ We all need to take action to support biodiversity
This year’s summit highlighted a critical concern: the fashion industry’s dependence on biodiversity – essential for human life and raw materials. The ‘Bee The Change’ campaign, led by ethical clothing brand Pangaia and the Trillion Bees coalition, was launched at COP28 and highlighted the complex link between clothing, biodiversity and pollinators, highlighting their crucial role in global ecosystems. The campaign is aimed at conserving bees and other pollinators, and many other companies are now joining the effort. Fashion directly affects these winged insects through man-made factors such as pesticides, habitat loss and climate change. Expect nature-inspired collections that connect clothing to its origins to become widespread; in this case, bees appear on clothes, in restaurants and even in airports around the world.
3/ Material innovation, smart design and circular business models are crucial
Material innovation and smart design remain high on fashion’s priority list in the transition to more sustainable and circular practices. Shoppers will continue to see a steady stream of innovative, next-generation alternatives to traditional materials, along with an increase in the use of recycled fibers. This focus was demonstrated at COP28 through Stella McCartney’s Sustainable Market, which embodies this shift and showcases innovative materials such as grape-based leather and tree cellulose sequins. In collaboration with LVMH, the exhibition unveiled transformative technologies – used by start-ups to established brands – that provide plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather and fur, and regenerative alternatives to traditional fibers.
The shift to circular fashion could also redefine the shopping experience for citizens. Instead of focusing solely on purchasing new items, shoppers could embrace a fashion ecosystem where renting and refurbishing high-quality garments becomes as routine as purchasing them – enabling access to high-quality clothing without the obligation of property. Luxury brands are also increasingly introducing repair and renovation services to their premium collections, encouraging customers to take good care of their clothes and pass on garments to the next generation. This shift encourages a more sustainable approach to consumption and invites creative collaboration through an environmentally conscious approach to fashion exploration and healthy reuse.
4/ The fashion industry is crucial to championing a sustainable culture
Fashion often adopts culture for trends without truly understanding or respecting them, missing opportunities for sustainable solutions. Brands must take into account citizens’ cultural backgrounds – including socio-economics, ethical values and ethnicity – and promote real connections and understanding what sustainability looks like from different perspectives. By extending concern beyond its operational impact on people, fashion can shape cultural values towards sustainability, setting an example and prioritizing varied sustainable practices worldwide.
My new cultural sustainability organisation, Black Pearl, hosted discussions at the COP28 Entertainment + Culture pavilion, where I engaged with activists, the African Biodiversity Network and even Ellie Goulding. These discussions highlighted the power of fashion, music and culture in connecting with a global audience on climate change through personalized storytelling, relatable impact and uplifting voices from the Global South.
5/ We all play a role in driving positive change
Interconnectivity between people and the environment is crucial, and the demand for fashion brands that reflect values has increased dramatically. Next year, brands will prioritize citizen engagement, engaging their communities and seeking feedback and insight. Shoppers are now looking for representation of their perspectives on what is made and how, moving from playing the passive role of consumer to engaged community members.
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