Glyndebourne, one of the world’s most celebrated opera festivals, opens on Thursday and runs until August 25. In its 90th year, sales have already been record-breaking with performances by, among others The Merry Widowwhich is being performed here for the first time Carmen And The Magic Flute.
For anyone who’s ever had a ticket, there’s something spectacularly magical about this country house opera – from the idyllic South Downs setting, where thistle hills and lavender-scented gardens surround a sprawling 16th-century country house, to the formal dress code, which is still de rigueur , despite it no longer being enforced. Coming here feels like the ultimate social cachet.
For all its lifelong older members who raise an eyebrow at radical productions and divergent dress standards (you’ll see a handful snoozing after a few too many whistles in the sun), there has been an influx of younger fans, thanks in part to new memberships among the 30 and 40 years with priority for bookings and discounted tickets.
The audience doesn’t just come for the music, but for the whole experience: the thrill of dressing up and organizing the fanciest picnic of their entire lives; silver, crystal, candlesticks, anything goes, devoured to the soundtrack of birdsong and grazing sheep. This is a place where high standards prevail and novices will probably be wondering what on earth to wear, because although the official website says there are “no rules”, if you roll up in denim, flip-flops or shorts, be prepared to find yourself under scorn.
Think of an evening cocktail instead of a hunting ball, more formal than a wedding guest, because you don’t have to worry about overshadowing a bride. This is the place to go for ladies-of-the-manor dressing, but no OTT razzle-dazzle sequins. It’s a balancing act – you also need to make sure you’re properly dressed for the outdoors and prepared for all English weather.
“I always try to wear British designers when I can, it just seems appropriate,” says veteran Glyndebourner Annika Purdey of James Purdey & Sons, who annually opts for designers such as Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Victoria Beckham and Beulah London.
Her best tip? Don’t wear anything too tight. “You sit most of the day and want to be comfortable.”
Rotate Birger Christensen dress with recycled cloqué, £300, Net-a-Porter; Velvet headband, £385, Jess Collet; Beaded bag, £350, Shrimps; Sparkly Slippers, £35, MRS
Chic updos or soft waves look beautiful next to a statement lip or eye. For those arriving by train, you will need to decide whether to arrive fully clothed (a bus runs from the train station to the site) or whether to go to one of the on-site changing rooms.
“Last year I was there for the first time with a friend and her family, who dress very formally every year,” says Eshita Kabra, the founder of rental site By Rotation. “The girls wore dresses and the men wore black ties, so I chose to wear a lemon sorbet Jacquemus dress, which has a semi-formal look.”
My own first trip to Glyndebourne was with my now husband’s family in 2012. Having just graduated from university, I knew little about opera but threw myself into the preparation: the excitement of going to Bicester Village to buy a designer dress , with a Middleton-style Kate blow-dry, ready to watch the drama unfold.
It was my first real taste of a black-tie event and it turned out to be a world-class act of people-watching – from those who came holding little more than a picnic blanket and an M&S sandwich in slightly too casual attire, to the ladies in ball gowns and their muscular, worn-out husbands, and the guys in the corporate box who turned heads with their (tut-tut) open shirts.
It was enchanting – except I made the big mistake of wearing stilettos. I didn’t expect to walk so much, from the parking lot to lugging the picnic gear (tables, chairs, everything) to a serene spot under a willow tree by the lake. Don’t make the same mistake, especially if you want to stroll through the beautiful gardens for photos. Experts choose a block or wedge heel so that you don’t sink into the grass, or, better yet, a slightly shorter hem so that a nice flat heel appears underneath.
Kabra also recommends changing shoes. “I had my Loewe basket bag for my flats – for train travel and walking in the grass – I highly recommend bringing a larger bag and comfortable heels.”
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If dresses aren’t your thing, sleek tailoring is a chic alternative and statement blazers, tapered trousers and statement suits from designers like The Deck, the first all-female tailor on Savile Row, and Me+Em would work great.
“For Glyndebourne I like a romantic look that suits the country setting,” says London-based designer Anna Mason, whose elegant, feminine pieces regularly grace clients for the festival. “A long dress, so you can wear tights to keep out the cold, and you need a layer – an evening jacket or a shawl, because you want to look summery but not freeze when the temperature drops when it gets dark. ”
Cotton dress, £995, Anna Mason London; Raffia bag, £195, Sezane; Crystal earrings, £14, accessories; Metallic leather heels, £135, Boden
For those who’d rather not buy anything new, rental platforms like By Rotation and Hurr have entire sections dedicated to black tie. “I rented midi to long contemporary dresses from brands like Reformation, The Vampire’s Wife and Zimmermann,” Kabra suggests. If you’re thinking about headgear, wear a fedora or something with a wide brim to keep out the sun, but take it off during the performance – no one wants their view partially blocked. Bows and headbands add a playful touch and don’t forget some jewelry; glitter always goes down well.
Men like to don a traditional black or white tie (beware of grass stains); After all, as my husband testifies, there aren’t many occasions anymore that fully embrace formal attire.
“It is always a pleasure to see how many people take the trouble to dress for the opera. It shows respect for the artists and the tradition of the events,” says regular visitor William Emmett, owner of vintage boutique Emmett & White, based in Alfriston, near Glyndebourne. “I like to be traditional and wear an evening suit, but usually add color with a bright bow tie, a brooch on my lapel and velvet slippers, which are easy to put on and take off when sitting on the floor.”