A swish of silk kimono. The clip of clogs on cobblestones. A flash of scarlet lips on a white painted face.
For many visitors to Kyoto, capturing a dreamlike glimpse of a geisha is something of a holy grail. Steeped in ritual and layered in beauty, a geisha is one of Japan’s most poetic expressions of its traditional cultural heritage.
Yet Kyoto’s so-called world of flowers and willows has long been both elusive and enticing, especially for tourists – and it will soon become harder than ever to witness.
This week, officials in Kyoto’s historic geisha district of Gion announced plans to restrict access to the atmospheric centuries-old network of back streets, lined with time capsule teahouses and wooden dwellings, in an effort to curb a sharp rise in post-pandemic tourism .
The move follows a series of complaints from locals, with issues ranging from tourists chasing geisha through the streets to take photos, to one where her kimono was torn and another reportedly had a cigarette stuck to her collar.
While some of these incidents are extreme, the overcrowding of Gion’s quaint backstreets is clearly a growing problem, deeply at odds with the rarefied and exclusive culture that has long defined the essence of the geisha world.
Many experts call overtourism only part of the problem, with most of the blame placed on tourists’ general lack of awareness of the sensitively nuanced layers of Japanese culture.
As James Mundy, of specialist Japanese tour operator InsideJapan Tours (insidejapantours.com), explains: “Kyoto is a beautiful place, and popular for good reason. And to some extent it is understandable that crowds of tourists flock there, looking for that perfect image of a temple or that photo of a geisha. But this is about responsible tourism and cultural awareness, which some major travel companies and individuals are simply not interested in. Instead, they focus on getting that photo for their social media.
“Popular temples and shrines are part of the daily lives of locals, and in some of the more popular places the crowds of tourists tend to get in the way of this. It is the interruption to daily life – and more importantly, the lack of cultural respect and awareness – that has angered some locals and led to local authorities taking action.”
What is a geisha?
There is often a clouded understanding of what it means to be a geisha.
The ancient world of the geisha – or geiko, as they are called in Kyoto – has long been a symbol of refinement, beauty and mastery of traditional arts.
Trained rigorously for years as apprentices (known as maiko), they are highly skilled entertainers, having mastered a mixture of traditional Japanese art forms, from dancing and playing musical instruments to tea ceremonies and the art of conversation.
The geisha world has long been flourishing, especially in Kyoto. The old city was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years, until the late 19th centurye century, and was consequently the birthplace of countless iconic traditions. Like tea ceremonies, ikebana flower arranging and kimono textiles, the world of the geisha is deeply etched into Kyoto’s cultural DNA and local life.
As Mundy explains, “There are many misconceptions about geisha. One is that they are prostitutes – which to a large extent they are not. Geisha are respected, traditional hostesses, who have been trained for many years in the performing arts, allowing them to provide an exclusive traditional entertainment service with dance, music, drinks, games and conversations. They are certainly not tourist attractions, but rather guardians of a traditional culture.”
Where can you experience authentic geisha culture today?
Although Gion is the most famous center for geisha in Kyoto, it is not the only place where tourists can get a taste of this world of willows and flowers.
Kyoto is home to five traditional geisha districts – known as Hanamachi, which translates as ‘flower city’ – with many neighborhoods offering a more tranquil and local experience.
But wandering the streets of these neighborhoods with an iPhone in hand hoping to catch a glimpse of a geisha isn’t the best way to go about it. Not only does it contribute to problems of overtourism and interfere with daily life, but it also rarely captures the beauty and essence of experiencing the skills of a geisha.
Instead, choose a respected tour operator or luxury hotel, many of which can arrange access to an authentic experience, booking a tea ceremony or dinner in a private teahouse with a geiko.
For a more budget-conscious experience? Gion Corner also offers a program of traditional performing arts and culture – with a one-hour showcase including a Kyoto dance by maikos and a tea ceremony, ikebana and kyogen comedy. Visitors can even have their picture taken with a maiko or geiko. Tickets are available online (kyoto-gioncorner.com) and through the Kyoto Tourist Information Center Kyo Navi (kyoto.travel).
What rules and etiquette should you follow when meeting a geisha?
The guidelines drawn up by the Kyoto City Tourism Association together with Kyoto City in the Kyoto City Official Travel Guide are clear in what is and is not allowed. For example, visitors are urged not to stop, follow, or take unauthorized photos or videos of geisha as they walk around.
A ‘Mind Your Manners’ campaign is also being promoted via posters around Kyoto City, with some more general advice including:
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Move slowly when exploring residential areas or religious sites
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Don’t follow the crowd
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Leave your luggage
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Do not take photos where prohibited