From stunning countryside to historic châteaux, and sprawling vineyards to markets selling local delicacies, there’s plenty to explore and enjoy in the Atlantic Loire Valley. Wondering where to start? Here are our tips for a week in a region that encompasses the cities of Nantes, Saumur, Le Mans, Angers and La Baule, and the five departments of Loire Atlantique, Anjou, Mayenne, Sarthe and Vendée.
Outdoor activities
The forests, riverbanks and hills of the Atlantic Loire Valley make it the perfect setting for holiday activities and it is a popular destination for cyclists, walkers and anyone who wants to get out on the water. There are over 400 nautical centres on the Loire and its tributaries, making it great for canoeing, kayaking and boat hire, or just a pleasant walk along the water.
Vent d’Soulair organizes fishing trips in a traditional every house (fishing boat), while Rêves de Loire et d’Ailleurs takes small groups on his boat everything you see for a boat trip and bird watching on the river’s sandbanks.
There are plenty of places for young explorers to branch (treetop adventure trails), such as Monkey Forest north of Saint-Nazaire or O’Gliss Park’s O’Fun Park in the Vendée. The Bercé forest is a quieter place for a stroll among the giant oaks, and there are botanical gardens at the Chateau du Pin, in Champtocé-sur-Loire, and the Jardin des Plantes d’Angers, whose paths, waterfalls and statues lend a serene atmosphere.
Markets and gastronomy
The Talensac market in Nantes has been running since 1937 and is open every morning except Mondays. It sells a wide range of local produce from the Loire and Vendée. You’ll find stacks of oysters, shelves of local Muscadet wine, Guérande salt and charcuterie, with the scent of curé nantais cheese and strawberries in the air. Every Wednesday, the city’s Place de la Bourse is filled with stalls selling organic produce.
Saumur, a 90-minute drive to the east, has a huge market on Saturday mornings in the Place de la République, selling local specialities such as accursed – round rolls filled with white beans, rillettes or cheese, potatoes with tape (dried apples that have been flattened) and dishes with traditional mushrooms (mushrooms stuffed with garlic, goat cheese and parsley).
Other great fresh produce markets can be found in Saint-Nazaire and in Angers, home to the big market.
Wine and vineyards
The Loire Valley is one of the best wine regions in France and it is easy to visit one of the many vineyards or cellars around town for a tasting. Lesser-known Fiefs Vendéens wines are produced closer to the coast where the climate is more lively, while further inland you will find the famous Chenin Blancs from Saumur and Anjou and the ever-popular Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine.
In Saint-Fiacre, the Château du Coing is open for tours and Muscadet tastings by the mother-daughter team Véronique and Aurore Günther-Chéreau. The estate is steeped in history: wine has been produced here since the 15th century at the confluence of the two rivers Sèvre and Maine.
Tastings of Domaine du Closel’s organic wines at the Château des Vaults in Savennières can be followed by a walk around the beautiful château grounds. For sparkling wine, the Veuve Amiot house in Saumur was founded in 1884 and has 3.5 miles of underground vineyards. caves (cellars). Visitors can take a guided tour of the caves, see the production and bottling process, and enjoy a glass of Saumur Brut or Crémant de Loire in the tasting room.
Events not to be missed
The Rendez-vous de l’Erdre festival combines jazz and boating, offering a week of free concerts along the Erdre River and at various locations on the Nantes-Brest canal at the end of August. For something a little more physical, the 21st edition of the Foulées du Saumur-Champigny trail races kicks off on 8 September in the town of Varrains. Or stand and watch the start of the Vendée Globe – the round-the-world sailing race – from Les Sables d’Olonne on 10 November.
Visit the elite equestrian centre Cadre Noir de Saumur, founded in 1815, where you can tour the prestigious riding school and meet the famous riding masters. The centre hosts evening galas for equestrians throughout the season, including on 20, 21 and 22 December. For more spectacular shows, visit the sprawling Puy du Fou in the Vendée, an hour’s drive from Nantes, Angers and Les Sables d’Olonne, and voted the best theme park in the world.
Historical castles
The Loire has always been associated with opulent castles, and the Atlantic side of the valley is no different. The 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne dominates Nantes with its fortified ramparts. The magnificent castle on the banks of the Angers River, home to the UNESCO-listed Apocalypse Tapestry from the late 14th century, was restored to a powerful fortress by Catherine de Medici, Queen of France from 1547 to 1559.
A short drive further afield is the magnificent, symmetrical 18th-century Château de Montgeoffroy, with a huge star-shaped park – one of the few remaining in France. Drive 60 miles further to the Château de Tiffauges in the Vendée and you’ll find the region’s most characterful medieval castle, which puts on shows and entertainment for visitors.
Antique hunting
Almost every village in the region has an antique shop, but in La-Chartre-sur-le-Loir, in Sarthe, there are more than a dozen antique shops selling everything from lace napkins and vests to monogrammed nightgowns.
At La Maison Courtin the shop owner has a cabinet of curiosities and three shops, or museum boutiques, from the 1920s; one for art supplies, one for hats and another for paintbrushes. For more details about these and other sights and experiences in the area, contact the Vallée du Loir tourist office.
Meanwhile, the Place Viarme in Nantes (every Saturday morning) and the Rue Toussaint in Angers (the first Sunday of the month) are filled with garage sale stalls – great places to find a Napoleonic telescope, vintage glassware or some nautical curios.
Notable locations
The small village of Rochemenier, a short distance from Saumur, is home to a complete underground settlement where farms have been dug out of the rock, alongside troglodyte dwellings, a chapel, stables, chicken coops and a maze of tunnels carved into the caves.
Even more bizarre is the Musée Robert Tatin in Mayenne, a surreal yet enchanting structure that took artist Robert Tatin 22 years to complete. The building features gigantic Polynesian, Aztec, historical and dream-inspired sculptures, and there is also a meditation garden and butterfly park.
Stay in a special place
Book a night at the Château de l’Epinay in Saint-Georges-sur-Loire, a castle near Angers with a history dating back to the 12th century that has been converted into a hotel, spa and restaurant. Or splurge and stay at the 18th-century Château du Grand Lucé, southeast of Le Mans, to experience the grandeur of French aristocratic life.
To the Atlantic Loire Valley
The best way to visit the Atlantic Loire Valley is in the comfort of your own car, sailing to France with Brittany Ferries. It’s an easy drive from all ports of call and just two hours from St Malo. Another bonus is that your holiday starts the moment you step aboard your ferry, with talented French chefs serving French and international cuisine in the restaurants. As part of the award-winning service, there are cabins to relax in and an onboard spa, not to mention plenty of activities to keep the kids entertained – from cinema screenings to live performances. You’ll wake up feeling refreshed from your overnight crossing and can enjoy breakfast on board before setting off to explore.
If you’re traveling in your own car, you can pick up a few curios and antiques (small ones), or pack a case or two of wine from your favorite vineyard. You can also make your own adventure by bringing your bikes or water sports gear, or get in on the action by driving to Puy du Fou. The 6,000-seat Roman Colosseum puts on a spectacular show of gladiators and chariots, and there’s even a Viking battle, featuring a longship, that will keep you on the edge of your seat.
Speaking of sailing ships, all you need to do is book your own transport with Brittany Ferries. You can also easily combine your trip with accommodation, ranging from charming gites and cottages to hotels and campsites.
Discover even more fun things to do in the Atlantic Loire Valley – and book your holiday crossing with Brittany Ferries. Sail to France from just £103 one way for a car and two passengers*
*Available on selected day cruises in September and October