Few holidaymakers know about the prospect of a beach holiday half a mile above sea level, but Italy has kept a secret.
Granted, Lake Garda and Lake Como are known for their summer getaways, but these A-list destinations are now victims of their own success. Earlier this year, Garda introduced a Venetian-style tourist tax, and while it caps at €3 (£2.50) per person per day, it sends a clear message.
Instead, do as L’Ora del Garda – the warm afternoon breeze that blows from Lake Garda into the mountains – and head north. The Trentino region will be flying 12 Blue Flags for its beaches in 2024 and is also home to almost 300 sparkling lakes, including the cleanest in the country. Discover, too, the divine beauty of the UNESCO World Heritage Brenta Dolomites and cute Italian villages. In the autonomous capital of Trento, step inside the frescoed walls of Buonconsiglio Castle and dip in and out of aperitivo bars.
The Ora, which feels like a hairdryer on low, is responsible for the Mediterranean climate enjoyed by locals in the Trentino valleys and the secret to why this part of the Dolomites might just be the answer to a fly-and-flop holiday, amid scorching heatwaves and crowded beaches. Here’s how to explore the Italian lakes you’ve never heard of.
Molveno: the most beautiful lake in Italy
Lake Molveno is located in the Fassa Valley, about 25 miles (or an hour’s drive) from Riva del Garda and about the same distance from Trento. It is cooler than some of the other lakes in the region, due to its higher altitude (800m) with highs of 24 degrees in August, but not only has it been voted Italy’s most beautiful lake for seven years running, it was also ranked number one in the EU’s Blue Guide for 2024.
It looked, felt and smelled like a beach holiday as I tiptoed across the shingle at Spiaggia Lago di Molveno, waves lapping gently over my feet, excited children splashing about and the tropical scent of sunscreen hanging in the hot air. Out back were tennis courts, a bike park where kids could learn to ride, a mini-golf course and a public lido. At restaurants like Al Caminetto, waiters handled the lunchtime rush while kitchens served Italian crowd-pleasers and regional dishes that showed an Austrian influence (Trentino was part of Austria through the 19th century).
Lured by the luxury of an electric boat to hire (Go-Go Electric; £60 for two hours), the crystal-clear waters proved too much to resist. After drifting to a secluded beach, I switched off the engine and dove in. I could definitely feel the elevation change; the water was bitingly cold and it wasn’t long before I was suitably refreshed from my morning’s e-bike ride across the lake (Sportlifee; £33 for half a day).
Caldonazzo: a family beach holiday in Italian style
With waterfront holiday homes, Blue Flag beaches, a wide range of water sports (including water skiing on Trentino’s only lake where it is allowed) and hiking trails, Lake Caldonazzo, an hour’s drive from Molveno, has everything and more to offer for a beach holiday.
Although Molveno has an undeniably beautiful location, it exudes a classic beach holiday atmosphere, especially for families. The shores are dotted with family-friendly restaurants and ice cream parlours – the linguine bella Sardegna at Ristorante Pizzeria Riviera was a highlight – plus an old-fashioned arcade and mini funfair for the kids.
For a change of scenery, the smaller Lake Levico is a 10-minute drive away and flies a Blue Flag. The nearby town of the same name is known for its spas for parents in need of a little pampering.
Tenno: Italy’s crystal clear lake
Lake Tenno, also known as Italy’s “turquoise diamond,” is one of the country’s cleanest. It’s no surprise that this small lagoon also has a Blue Flag. Taking off my walking boots and sinking my feet into the cool bed as schools of trout raced past me was an experience I’d never had on the coast before.
The medieval village of Canale hovers above the shores. This rustic settlement overlooks the entire valley, with views stretching all the way to Lake Garda. It is home to a handful of museums and cafes, and is perfect for an afternoon of exploring beyond the beauty of the blue lake (the blue lake).
Cavedine: A cool alternative
Lake Cavedine is one of the coolest contenders among Trentino’s seven sparkling waters. While its beaches haven’t yet earned the prestigious Blue Flag, they’re still cleaner and clearer than some of the perennial favorites along the coast.
Equally appealing is the steady breeze, which makes Cavedine a top spot for windsurfing and other water sports. Choose between lazing on the pebble beach, action on the water, or hire a bike in Riva del Garda (Degasperi; from £9 for four hours) and cycle to and around the rocky outcrop (60 minutes from Riva). Stop en route at the Maso Bòtes oil mill in Arco, one of Europe’s most northerly olive groves, for a tour and tastings (£21 per person).
The Cavedine area is dotted with orchards and vineyards, including Pravis – the perfect spot for a glass of bubbly and a homemade aperitivo. As I sipped a glass of locally grown sauvignon and took in the scenery (in a manageable 29C), I thought of the people of Amalfi, Greece and Spain jostling for space on the sand in 40C temperatures.
There come
The nearest airport to Valle dei Laghi is Verona, which is served by several UK airlines. Fly direct to Verona from a number of UK airports including Birmingham, London and Manchester with Ryanair (ryanair.com) from £55 return.
Renting a car for a week in September starts at £346 from Hertz (hertz.co.uk).
Stay
Villa Madruzzo, Trento (0039 0461 986220) has double rooms from £99, including breakfast.
Grand Hotel Molveno, Lake Molveno (0039 0461 586934) has classic rooms with lake views from £130 including breakfast.
Park Hotel Du Lac, Lake Levico (0039 0461 706590) has standard double rooms from £133, including breakfast.
The Du Lac Et Du Parc Hotel, Riva del Garda (0033 0464 566 600) has double rooms from €519 per night, including breakfast.
Laura was a guest at Visit Trentino.
