The Milan and Paris menswear shows are fresh off the heels of a fun atmosphere. The street style set was divided into two distinct camps. On one side were the sartorial savvy, who opted for sharp suits, polished shoes and fancy accessories like slick, wide-framed sunglasses. On the other side was a more laissez-faire approach: think slouchy jeans, creased shirts and baseball caps galore.
But of course, it was the runways where the ultimate showdown took place. From teeny-tiny shorts to slogan tees, these are the spring/summer 25 trends to watch out for.
Shorts vs. shorts
At Ami and Gucci, shorts hovered around three inches. On the front row of Gucci, Irish actor Paul Mescal even endorsed the short-shorts trend in striped cotton boxer shorts. Meanwhile, shorts at Neil Barrett and Dior fell to just above the models’ knees. Choose your fighter.
In bloom
Giorgio Armani’s show was set against a backdrop of swaying palm fronds on video, setting the tone for a collection that featured softly focused photographic prints of palm trees and ferns on silky pyjama-style sets and loosely cut T-shirts. At Dior, Kim Jones drew inspiration from the work of South African ceramicist Hylton Nel: a neat collarless jacket with a blue-and-white floral motif that took over 600 hours of hand-beading to create looked like an heirloom vase that an heirloom might have sat on a mantelpiece. Meanwhile, British designer Grace Wales Bonner chose to celebrate the work of Trinidadian textile artist Althea McNish, who was known for her vibrant floral patterns.
Optical illusion
“Nothing is what it seems,” Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson explained backstage. Models wore what appeared to be cable-knit sweaters and T-shirts but were in fact dyed to look like knitwear. Another model seemed to be battling the elements, as the hem of her trench coat appeared to fly up, but was wired to defy gravity. There was a similarly fraudulent mood at Prada, where low-slung belts on trousers were in fact belt motifs. Contrasting colored collars peeking out from under smart sweaters were stitched to look like separate pieces, while wired cuffs deliberately cluttered collars and cuffs. “Nowadays, fake is a very contemporary issue,” Miuccia Prada mused backstage. “What is fake? What is the truth?”
Sports heroes
With the Olympic Games fast approaching, some designers were in a sporty mood. Backstage at the Fendi show, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi pointed to an old photo pinned to her mood board of the Italian national football team on their way to the 1984 European Football Championship. She focused on the emblem on their suit jackets and created her own in-house motif that was featured on cricket jerseys and blazers with shoulder pads. Other looks had a distinctly ’80s golf vibe, with plaid pants and jackets styled with baseball caps. At Louis Vuitton in Paris, Pharrell Williams wanted to celebrate “human athletic prowess.” There were shirts with LVFC written on them and a monogrammed LV bag in the shape of a football, while other jackets had a motocross theme.
Loosen it
While tailoring still dominated the runways, this time around it had a relaxed rather than overly formal feel. In Milan, Neil Barrett showed navy and charcoal trousers with a razor-sharp center pleat that contrasted nicely with their casual cut. Giorgio Armani, a pioneer of soft tailoring, leaned on his original aesthetic with loosely pleated trousers that recalled his early-’80s collections. Meanwhile, Loewe offered bubble-shaped trousers that had an almost spongy texture. Anderson mused on their practicality. Good news: they don’t need ironing.
All white
The bad news for coffee drinkers was that monochromatic white looks were everywhere. They mostly came in the form of coordinated, workwear-inspired pieces. Kim Jones was all about chore jackets in porcelain white, while Sacai had military field jackets and utility-inspired trousers. Rick Owens even swapped his standard all-black palette for an all-white collection. An impactful, if impractical, colour choice for those of us who like to eat spaghetti or take public transport.
Mesh moments
Forget the turtlenecks and tees, the new way to style unbuttoned blazers and jackets is to flash some flesh. At Gucci, oversized suits and matching short sets were paired with mesh polo shirts. Louis Vuitton’s opening looks featured tailored blazers and thin cardigans layered over sheer tops at LV. For those who don’t want to show quite as much, take a cue from Amiri, who paired delicate lace shirts with thermal white cardigans.
All tied up
The tie discourse continued throughout the SS25 collections, with playful styling throughout the show. Fendi’s traditional club ties were pinned on, while Wooyoungmi – a South Korean menswear brand – placed chunky chains over theirs. Meanwhile, Martine Rose leaned into the novelty category with Bugs Bunny and dolphin motifs.
Play it
Slogan T-shirts and sweaters aren’t going anywhere. Jonathan Anderson unveiled a collaboration with Guinness at his eponymous label JW Anderson – crew-neck knitted sweaters featured the brand’s signature vintage iconography, including the smiling moon face, this time in beaded pearls. Elsewhere, for his first menswear show for Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza presented a phrase previously spoken by its founder, Franco Moschino: “It’s better to dress the way you want than the way you should,” on a simple white T-shirt. At Dior, Kim Jones put his own spin on Francis Bacon’s bon mot, with tote bags and knitted sweatshirts that read “Dior for my real friends.”
High gloss
Proving that metallics aren’t just for the holidays, designers sent out pieces that shimmered and sparkled on their spring runways. At Amiri and Dior, coats and jackets were provided with a layer of sequins and sequins. Rick Owens’ “White Satin Army of Love” show featured 200 models and featured distressed metallic jackets that had a vintage feel. Meanwhile, Dries van Noten closed the chapter of his eponymous brand that he launched more than 30 years ago by celebrating his signature glittering aesthetic. Utility jackets and shirts came in sheer fabrics in jewel-like tones. There were also glittering trench coats and double-breasted jackets. Shine on.
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