Instead of celebrating its 10th anniversary with a big party, the St. Louis Fashion Fund is staying true to its purpose and supporting the area’s economy with a year of special events.
While re-shoring and domestic manufacturing have received some attention in certain cities, such initiatives are consistent with St. Louis’ heritage. From the end of 19e century until the end of World War II, the city’s garment district was second only to that of New York City. In the 1950s, the number of clothing manufacturers in the city tripled, largely thanks to young seamstresses. Washington Avenue once housed some of those businesses and so many shoe manufacturers that it was nicknamed “Shoe Street, USA.”
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Over the past decade, the St. Louis Fashion Fund has supported 800 local fashion-related businesses, established brands, key players, students and designers, including many who are members of the area’s refugee community. Combined, this fashion community contributes $3.3 billion in revenue to the area.
Founded to take local brands to the next level, the SLFF began raising $2.1 million to fund an incubator for a two-year program that attracted national talent and led to the hiring of an executive director. In the years that followed, the group has expanded its reach to also support photographers, jewelry designers, makeup artists and other fashion-related creatives. There is also a renewed commitment to strengthen production and create jobs, sustain employment and strengthen industry-related businesses, no matter how small or large.
The headlining event will see Michael Kors in conversation with Derek Blasberg on April 1, as part of the SLFF’s ‘Speaking of Fashion’ series organized in collaboration with Washington University in St. Louis and the footwear group Caleres, which is based there is located. A crowd of 800 people is expected at the Graham Memorial Chapel on campus, and the event will be broadcast live. There will also be a trunk show in the area.
For Kors, the honor is professional and personal. The designer said: “I am honored to join this extraordinary program that has been a leading voice for local designers, students and fashion fans for a decade. My husband, Lance [LaPere] is from the St. Louis area, so it is a welcome opportunity to pay tribute to this community.”
Kors’ participation is in line with a number of other big names praised by the organization, including Diane von Furstenberg, Iris Apfel and Andre Leon Talley. St. Louis residents include Blasberg and model Karlie Kloss. Fashion followers who focus on the big catwalks in New York, Milan, Paris and London might give St. Louis a shrug, and perhaps anticipating the skeptics, the SLFF has a “Why St. Louis?” media campaign. To try and pave the way for generations of new designers, the campaign touches on diversity, equality and inclusivity; workforce development; creating and retaining jobs.
In addition to Caleres, who has supported the nonprofit since its inception, sponsors of the nonprofit include Washington University, Edward Jones, Lewis Rice DeLux, Greater St. Louis Inc., Lou Fusz, US Bank, Audacy and Fox 2/KPLR 11 anniversary year.
Following the pandemic shutdown — having given up its incubator — the organization was ready to come out with a bang again to show St. Louis, the region and the U.S. that the city is “still moving and shaking said SLFF co-founder Susan Sherman. The aim was to show ‘all the good’ that radiates from the city, not only in relation to the fashion fund, but also with all its employees and partners.
In honor of the 10th anniversary, 10 organizations were selected to be spotlighted, with a focus on some organizations that may not receive sufficient funding or publicity. These included some Black, Indigenous and people of color designers through the FwrdSociety, Mother Model Management and Gent Menswear Fashion.
Other anniversary events include a Feb. 18 runway show featuring Major League Soccer team members from St. Louis City SC and aspiring soccer stars participating in the club’s Futures program. Every last turn is curated by Dwight Carter of Ghent Men’s Fashion Week, an under-exposed event that has been held in the city for years.
There are also plans for the SLFF to lead Missouri’s first annual Model Lobby Days in the state capital, Jefferson City. Nearly 100 leaders, educators, entrepreneurs and designers from Cape Girardeau, Columbia, Kansas City, Springfield and St. Louis have committed to lobbying and educating political powers about the industry’s economic impact. “I’m not sure” that political leaders are “completely aware of that,” Sherman said. ‘You know how [some] people don’t see fashion as big business.” Among those in attendance will be representatives from third-generation sewing machine manufacturer Tacony, a 77-year-old company.
She noted how some local sewers adopted special techniques in the countries they came from, such as Afghanistan or El Salvador. Refining these skills would ultimately require funding and grants. That’s why SLFF supporters will make their case this year as an introduction to state politics – jobs, economic development and internships.
“It’s all about the financing. We have the awareness now in St. Louis. We have so many young designers, including those who are more artisanal, making jewelry and accessories. They like working there. They see the potential and love the camaraderie. But it takes real money. That’s where we keep pushing and pushing,” Sherman said.
Sherman said success depends on cutting through the noise, recognizing that there are other issues and challenges in the world and in the city where revitalization is a priority. Therefore, the anniversary symbolizes the growth potential and improvement of the city’s branding. “It’s not something we make up. It is part of the city’s DNA. People in St. Louis love to talk about the [1904] World Expo. Well, they love to talk about the history of fashion and look at the old buildings of Washington Avenue and say, ‘This is what was – let’s bring it back.’
After all, Missouri is known as the “Show Me State,” Sherman said. “So it’s a matter of showcasing some of the best parts of the industry – people doing the work and asking, ‘How can we move this forward together?’” To launch the annual celebration, the SLFF welcomed Veronica Beard- founders Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard to a Neiman Marcus lecture earlier this year.
With almost 301,600 inhabitants, the city continues to try to strengthen its garment district. The SLFF will offer its insights as Downtown St. Louis reexamines its 2017 research. “As we look at the future of fashion in St. Louis, we really need to expand our ability to produce, cut and sew, and train pattern makers and seamstresses. Without that, there won’t be any business. Designers want to see and be production [based] close to where things are produced,” Sherman said.
To that end, there’s The Collective Thread, a nonprofit that provides small-batch production and empowers refugee women through free sewing classes in St. Louis’ garment district. “What hasn’t happened in the middle of this country is the creation of a major manufacturing center,” said Sherman, who noted how emerging designers like Elena Velez and Carly Mark of Puppets and Puppets have talked about their interest in domestic manufacturing in the Midwest . “I can’t say it’s a collective effort. But if you don’t have it, or don’t build it, they won’t come. We are aware of what is happening across the country, but we are focused on the Midwest.”
In addition to attracting new talent, SLFF’s Joan Berkman emphasized the goal of retaining local graduates from Washington University and the Stevens Institute of Business & Art. “We don’t want them to go to New York, Chicago or LA. You should stay with us because we have the contacts, the relationships, the paid internships, mentorships and the jobs. And guess where they settle and set up their business? Here in St. Louis.”
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