It was a wild few days during the 40th London Fashion Week in the capital. Do you want to know what to wear next winter? Victoria Moss and Joe Bromley have the overview.
Sneakers are over, loafers are in
With a handful of exceptions (most notably Labrum’s Adidas Samba collaboration), loafers took over the sneaker as the dominant shoe of this fashion week. Nowhere was this more surprising than at streetwear enthusiast Saul Nash’s show, but his ‘no hood/hat/no trainers’ dress code played into the rules of London’s 1990s garage club scene. “The question was: how do you pack and dress in sportswear to come in? That was the starting point for this collection,” he says. Answer: Sebago school shoes worn with ombré, neon green track pants; they look just as good (better?) as with chinos. JB
Your old vest
No, your eyes are not deceiving you, yes that is really a classic pointelle vest and panties from primary school on the catwalk. JW Anderson’s sweet tour through the idiosyncrasies of British-tinged nostalgia saw him take in everything from 1970s M&S underwear to grandpa slippers and giant tweed overcoats and remix it for a new generation. Not to mention the Mrs Merton wigs which Anderson described as “this idea of glorifying age and glorifying it at the same time”. VM
A Greek dress (drama)
On Erdem’s last visit to the British Museum he moved to the Duveen Gallery in the front row. There his ode to Maria Callas’s performance in Medea in 1953 unfolded in front of the much-disputed Parthenon sculptures by Pheidias (Elgin Marbles). Somewhat clumsily he adds fuel to the fire of the Greek Minister of Culture, who is astonished by the insensitivity. International relations aside, he has released some lovely chiton-style draped dresses, contributing to a burgeoning trend also picked up by Roksanda and 16Arlington. VM
The fur hat
Prone to a bad hair day? Here’s a treat. Large trapper-style faux fur hats popped up in a surprising number of places. Both Emilia Wickstead and JW Anderson placed them on the models’ heads; as does Thornton Bregazzi’s Preen in the couple’s excellent comeback show. Paired with their dramatic down skirts and patchwork sweatshirts, we’re sold. VM
The Saltburn Effect
The film flopped at Sunday night’s Baftas, but there’s no doubt some expansive country house style was murdered on the catwalks. Nowhere was this more true than at Dunhill, the menswear brand founded in 1893, where historical codes were reexamined by new creative director Simon Holloway. In the very beautiful green and deep red rooms of the Duveen Wing of the National Portrait Gallery, formidable portraits peered at intimidatingly elegant men. Most of the rah were high-waisted corduroys, worn with striped rugby shirts, white socks and embroidered velvet slippers, while silk cravats, tan driving gloves and the cravats served as stately fitting accoutrements. As for women, Rosamund Pike’s character Elsbeth was palpable in the aristo-eccentricity of many designers; especially with Molly Goddard and her vibrant pink tulle, where Pike made a surprise front row appearance. JB
The red hot dress
There were gasps when this heavenly silk collection was released at Tate Britain, where Roksanda unveiled her amazing collection, which took the super stylish example of Le Corbusier. Wavy, woven, tassel-studded perfection, honestly. Also note the FitFlop tie-in (yes, a new collaboration). Comfort and glamour? We’ll be right there. She’s not the only one supporting a major Ferrari-red frock moment, either — 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldi provided a Phoebe Philo-Celine-esque draped number, while everyone from Huishan Zhang to Chet Lo and David Koma donned one. Your look for the next festive season is waiting for you. VM
Grab a cowboy shirt
You may have noticed that the whole cowboy thing was bubbling underwater for a while. Everyone at the shows is doing a version of the boot, Pharrell Williams went all Wild West at his most recent Louis Vuitton show. Of course, Beyoncé also went abroad. If this felt sartorially strange to you, Molly Goddard’s cute cowboy shirts might catch your eye. She took cues from “miniature cowgirl outfits and things like Oilily and weird patchwork kids clothes.” Her version with the beautiful rose embroidery and mother-of-pearl buttons is very seductive. VM
Shimmy in a tinsel skirt
Cocktail skirts are big news again – especially when worn in a quirky way – it’s a touch of glamor on your lower half that you’re going for here, not OTT from head to toe. 16Arlington’s impressive silver tinsel number is just right. So much chic! Note the styling: a mix of understated black knitwear and an overcoat, with a little hint of the corporate trend popping up throughout. VM
Just add (faux) fur
While real vintage fur swept the trend-conscious showgoers, faux fur was seen regaining a place in fashion on the catwalks. In a welcome twist away from bubblegum-thorn-thorn tones – a rut of faux fur was stuck on the high street – it all came in natural shades. At Simone Rocha, beaver brown faux opera coats were complete with crystal appliqués, playing on her idea of Victoriana teddy bears. At Roksanda it was all pale, cream, sleeveless faux leather jackets, bound with leather, tied straps, while Erdem knitted cocoon jackets in alpaca with loop stitch in black and ivory. All the better to let the mafia woman in. JB
Your new 9-5
In more unlikely TikTok trends to note, Gen Z is now very interested in what their parents wore to work in the 1990s. The new nine-to-five wardrobe has all the basics of an office chair: pinstripes, white shirts, narrow reading glasses. At Dilara FındıkoÄŸlu, the Turkish-British emerging designer’s collection, Barbie actor Hari Nef draped herself against the church pillars in a banker’s shirt and jacket rolled up into a skirt, while the top half left entirely breasts exposed, sheer corset vests with panels and latex gloves. Emilia Wickstead reflected the 50/50 approach; sweaters and shirts on top, pop shade, floral decorated mini skirts on the bottom. But it was British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker who brought a more jovial touch to the craze; gray vests were worn with oversized striped shirts, cargo pants and puffy bowler hats. Pour yourself a cup of ambition, etc. JB
Put on a pop sock
For styling tricks we wouldn’t have supported while working out, the 15 denier black pop sock proves to have some serious staying power. Showgoers wore them all over town, paired with knee-length skirts and yes, loafers. Emilia Wickstead, styled this season by trendsetter Harry Lambert (the man behind Emma Corrin and Harry Styles’ looks), had a clear cool-over. The Mad Men vibe was updated with these off-color touches. Also note the V-neck sweater worn with an open-neck shirt. Time to bring it all out again. VM