“If the devil could do a ski race, he would ski the Inferno.” That’s how locals in the village of Mürren, Switzerland, describe the fiendishly difficult Inferno ski race, the longest downhill run in the world.
Now the most popular race of its kind, it was founded in 1928 by the Kandahar Ski Racing club when 19 members climbed to the top of Switzerland’s Schilthorn mountain (2,970m) over two days before setting off for the race to Lauterbrunnen in the valley floor, a drop of 2,170 meters. The club now has more than 1,400 members, including the Duke of Kent, Prince and Princess Michael of Kent and the Earl and Countess of Wessex, and celebrated its 100th anniversary on January 30 this year.
The course is typically 14.9km long (shortened to 9km this year due to snow conditions) and includes steep descents with black runs, three breathtaking uphill schusses and moments of pure fear. In the beginning the challenge was to travel from top to bottom in any way possible. First down won and there were no rules except that it had to be done on skis. Other than a single race gate and a lower starting area, closer to the lift station, the downhill route has changed little since then.
The experience is open to anyone who can ski a red or black run, but due to its popularity, racers must apply through a lottery for a coveted race number – places are limited to 1,850 and priority goes to racers with a recorded time from the previous year.
As a lifelong fan of Ski Sunday and an avid skier, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to participate in the annual marathon. Since I recently turned 60, it was now or never.
My trip to Mürren from Zurich airport included two trains, a cable car and the small Alpine train to the village, which sits on a sunny shelf surrounded by some of Switzerland’s most iconic mountains. During the First World War, wounded British prisoners of war were interned here. Now the Inferno race is a pilgrimage for adventurous amateur and advanced skiers.
The next morning, in the dark at 7 a.m., the racers boarded the first of two cable cars to the top of the Schilthorn. Then, at the right time, AC/DCs Highway to hell sounded from the speakers as a spectacular sunrise illuminated the peaks. Upon arrival at the revolving restaurant Piz Gloria, which was immortalized in the Bond film About Her Majesty’s Secret Service Starring George Lazenby, everyone enjoyed a hearty ‘James Bond’ breakfast as the mighty Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains came into view.
I saw driver Damon Hill lithely as we gathered at the starting line at 9,000 feet. In 2016, Pippa Middleton, sister of the Princess of Wales, was placed 67th out of 105 after completing the course in 12 minutes and 28 seconds.
The competitors start 12 seconds apart until the last racer leaves around 3:30 PM. The trail is infinitely better if you start early because it is less crowded by other skiers. I had gotten one of the coveted first 100 spots (after that you race according to your previous rankings).
Competitor Alan Ramsay, a 56-year-old Scottish veteran of 30 Inferno races, said: “Even the most seasoned ski racers are nervous when they queue up at the Inferno starting gate. It’s a race that will test your fitness and your skiing skills to the limit. You need guts and stamina to do it.”
The night before, costumed adults and children lined the streets of Mürren and lined the pubs. Race officials paraded through the city with an effigy of the devil that would be burned at the stake to ward off bad luck. The air was filled with the smell of roasted nuts, hot mulled wine and wood smoke.
But now, on a chilly January morning, at the yellow starting tent, the merriment of the evening seemed a world away and there was no turning back. I waited nervously as the buzzer counted down: “Three, two, one – go!” The electronic gate opened.
The race started calmly enough, but quickly became steeper. I remembered the motto of the Kandahar Ski Club: “Don’t turn unless you have to”.
I sped over traverses with steep grades and around icy switchbacks. The worst by far was the climb uphill. Fitter skiers glide further along the logging path and then skate up with ease, but I didn’t travel far enough and ended up trekking up with poles with my skis spread out herringbone style to get traction on the snow.
Panting, I started swaying as I neared the top, wishing I’d visited the gym more often than the pub. Seeing my pain, the supporters shouted encouragement: “Up, up, up!” – and blew their air horns, prompting me to continue.
Luckily I reached another descent beyond the climb and found the speed an intoxicating relief as my skis clattered down the icy piste. I continued towards the finish at Winteregg. But it still escaped me. The sadistic organizers had placed the finish line after a third final stretch uphill.
The scoreboard showed my time of 14 minutes as I staggered past the flag. The winner, Alexander Zöschg, achieved an incredible six minutes and 37 seconds, with an average speed of around 100 km/h.
Cleeves Palmer, former Kandahar president, said: “14 minutes is completely respectable for an Inferno newbie. It is more important to finish the race.” He is 62 years old, has completed the course 37 times, finishing in just over nine minutes.
One racer, Rupert Guinness, a 19-year-old Kandahar member, professional model and great-grandson of the founder of the Guinness Brewery, was competing for the first time. “I was the 900th racer to start and by then the course was quite bumpy. My ski came off and I ended up in the net, but I recovered and still got 9 minutes and 20 seconds.”
“It was my first Inferno, but I’ll definitely be back – there’s nothing as crazy as this race.”
Essentials
Mūren (muerren.swiss) organizes the annual Inferno (22 to 25 January 2025). Registration for participation (voting open to all strong skiers aged 18 and over) opens on June 1 and closes on September 15 (inferno-muerren.ch) – the entrance fee is CHF70 (£65) per person. Insurance is the responsibility of the participant.
Accommodation in Mürren ranges from B&B guesthouses and self-catering apartments to four-star hotels. Reservations available at murren.swiss. Plan your trip from Great Britain to Mürren (flights/rail transfers) via myswitzerland.com.
Keith Perry was a guest of the Mūren tourist office and MySwitzerland.