This week we’ve heard more than most people say a certain word in fashion circles. In addition to ‘janties’, ‘Hedi Slimane’ and ‘kilts’, a perhaps less expected – or at least less glitzy – word has received increasing attention: sustainability. It comes from Primark’s new Durability Framework, which the fast-fashion giant says is “designed to raise the bar for how retailers can extend the life of their clothes – meaning our customers will ultimately be able to love their clothes and wear for a longer period of time.” longer”.
“Sustainability should not be a luxury,” the retailer continued. But while there’s no doubting the importance of extending the life of clothing – figures from environmental NGO WRAP show that using a garment for nine months can reduce its carbon, waste and water footprint by up to 30% – Primark’s business model is designed to sell clothes. loads of clothes at extremely low prices, arguably fueling a ‘buy once, wear once’ mentality. So it’s no surprise that Patrick Duffy, founder of the Global Fashion Exchange, describes the announcement as “a textbook example of greenwashing” and “nothing more than a marketing tactic to burnish their image.”
“It is unfair that Primark is entering these murky waters,” said Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution and creative director of the Estethica agency. “Of course their products are sustainable,” she says. “Any product that contains large amounts of polyester is sustainable because it will take hundreds of years to break down in a landfill.”
A truly sustainable fashion brand, according to Duffy, would “prioritize high-quality, sustainable materials such as organic cotton, wool or recycled fibers, and avoid the cheap, synthetic fabrics that dominate fast fashion.”
Of course, Primark is not alone. “The reality is that fast-fashion giants thrive on fast production cycles, cheap labor and low-quality materials,” Duffy said. “The idea that their products can suddenly have a long lifespan without overhauling the entire supply chain is deceptive.” Yet many fast-fashion brands have also led the way in efforts to look greener. In 2022, Boohoo was criticized for appointing Kourtney Kardashian as a ‘sustainability ambassador’, while in 2023 a group of influencers took part in a Shein-sponsored trip touring the company’s ‘innovation centre’ in China.
So, in our quest for truly sustainable and more sustainable clothing, we asked the experts for tips on choosing clothes that will truly stand the test of time. Whether you’re looking for a new pair of sustainable jeans, mulling over a puffer jacket you hope will last through the winters to come, or scouring a thrift store for vintage finds made to slow the aging process, read on.
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‘Jeans with elastane do wear out faster’
Jeans with elastane break down on the inner thighs and crotch and need to be repaired after about a year of wear. Standard denim can last two to three years before needing repairs.
The most durable denim is Japanese selvedge. It takes a while for it to work, but it lasts the longest. Brands like Edwin, Nudie, Naked & Famous, Iron Heart and Joe & Co Denim all make high-quality selvedge denim. – Michael Pendleburyfounder of The denim doctor
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‘When it comes to jackets, a good quality zipper is your first priority – and personal shopping’
The main reason we see jackets fail is the zipper, so a good quality one is your first priority. Check if it has a brand – YKK or Opti are best. Avoid waterproof coil or two-way zippers as they won’t last as long and aim for a size 5 or larger for a main zipper. If there is a brand on it, the size should be stated on the back.
Depending on the reason why you buy your jacket, you should look for different materials. Lightweight never lasts that long, but if you want it to be ultra-light, that’s a trade-off. Fabric is sorted by weight and usually heavier equals stronger. Brand names such as Gore-Tex or Cordura are often a good sign, and fabrics with older technologies such as canvas, waxed cotton and leather are likely to be the most durable. Topstitching – when a seam line is reinforced and visible on the outside of a garment – is a good sign. Avoid glued zippers, pockets or hems, which often break, especially after washing.
Shopping in person is always more reliable. Don’t be afraid to try the item in the store. Try a ‘pill test’ by rubbing the fabric to see if it wears off. Pull all the zippers, snaps and seams – better to break it in the store than at yours! And if it does break, complain. We guarantee quality by asking for it in the first place. – Rosanna Watson, Founder Snowdonia Gear Repair
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‘Shop vintage – and always look inside’
You will always find something unique and interesting when you shop vintage. There is attention to extra small details because they are not mass produced to the level they are today. Always look inside – check the pockets, is the lining torn? But remember, even if something is damaged, a good tailor or local dry cleaner can usually repair, repair or even reshape the garment. – Kim, co-founder of Vintage Sisters
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‘Always check the hinges of glasses’
Choose acetate (plastic) frames over injection molded plastic. Acetate frames usually have a metal support on the sides and feel heavier. Metal frames are durable, but are much more susceptible to scratches and are more difficult to repair. In addition, always check the hinges; plastic hinges are prone to breaking, while a metal hinge can break over time but can be repaired. – Jo Skelton, co-founder of Peep Eyewear
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‘Welded boots are less likely to break’
Keep an eye on welted boots; boots where the connection between the upper and the outsole is stitched all the way around the shoe. Stitching provides extra reinforcement to the construction, making your shoe less likely to break. It can also make repairing them a lot easier.
Leather uppers tend to be more durable than synthetic materials, which is unfortunate for vegans, but it’s true for now. Leather uppers are also usually much easier to repair. Keep them in good condition by using shoe creams, balms and oils to moisturize the leather, keep the surface looking healthy and help prevent water damage. I alternate shoe creams and oils and wash my boots about once a month. – Jamie Whitehouse, the shoe repair company
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‘Give yourself the opportunity to have pieces taken in or out’
Consider sizing up so a seamstress can make adjustments so the fit feels comfortable [if your size fluctuates over time]. Particularly on the high street, to further reduce production costs, the barest amount of fabric will be used and often the clothing size we think will fit comfortably will not fit comfortably because the cut of that garment does not allow for flexibility or movement. If you have some excess fabric at the seam and the stitches are straight and neat, you can have that piece taken in or taken out. – Donna Tweedalepersonal stylist
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‘Real vintage items have double hems’
If you’re not sure whether something is vintage or a reproduction, look at the stitching or hem of the garment. Genuine vintage items were often finished with a double hem, while reproduction vintage is only hemmed once and sometimes simply overlocked to finish. – Faye Wagstaffefounder of Charity Shop Gal
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