If there’s one man who deserves a break, it’s Alan Bates. After spending the past two decades without a holiday fighting the biggest miscarriage of justice in British history, the former sub-postmaster – from Mr. Bates versus the Post Office fame – and his wife Suzanne certainly deserve a week in the sun.
And if there is one man who can offer the trip of a lifetime, it is Sir Richard Branson. Hearing Alan’s remarkable story, and presumably being as captivated as we were by the ITV dramatization, Virgin’s boss invited the couple to visit his private Caribbean island. It’s no wonder Alan fought back tears when he heard the news. With a weeklong stay on Necker Island costing more than $1 million (for up to 48 guests), it’s a place that few will ever experience.
Alan and Suzanne will be in good company, following in the footsteps of Princess Diana, Beyoncé, President Obama and, um, me. I was lucky enough to spend last week in Necker, wallowing in the understated luxury and sheer playfulness of a paradise completely unlike any other.
So as Alan considers swapping the green valleys and cozy pubs of North Wales for the beach bars and lush hills of the British Virgin Islands, here’s what Mr Bates can expect when he meets Mr Branson.
Arrive in style
Like all great places, it takes some time and effort to reach Necker. Alan and Suzanne will probably go via Antigua – of course they will fly there with Virgin Atlantic. There will be a few hours to kill there (I suggest they pass the time at the Big Banana bar airside; there’s little else to do) before the hour-long hop northwest in a much smaller plane to Tortola, the largest of the British Virgin Islands.
From there it’s a 90-second drive from the airport to the wharf and a 30-minute ride on one of the island’s two luxury speedboats (named after Richard’s children, Holly and Sam), where the first bottle of Necker champagne – or “ Necker Water, as it is better known, is quickly popped open and the fun officially begins.
Upon arrival, more Necker Water will be served at the Great House, the beating heart of the hilltop island that famously burned down after a lightning strike in 2011. Most guests stay here, but there are also idyllic Balinese-style villas with private pools dotted around the 74-hectare island.
Meet the locals
There are all kinds of weird and wonderful creatures on Necker, many of which were introduced by nature lover Richard, who was keen to turn the cacti-strewn island into a sanctuary for endangered species. Chief among them are seven species of lemurs from Madagascar, including the ringtails that interrupt every tennis game by somersaulting across the court to the referee’s chair. Feeding this friendly but mischievous gang is a real highlight of Necker.
The island is also home to free-roaming tortoises (including giant tortoises native to the Seychelles with a lifespan of over 150 years) – some have been known to nibble on red-painted toenails and mistake them for strawberries, so Suzanne may want to get a pedicure before the journey.
However, the most impressive species to be found on Necker is undoubtedly the less spotted, bearded billionaire. Since purchasing the island in the 1970s, Richard has made it his home and spends much of his time there. Being a fun and sociable guy, he loves to join guests at meals and challenge them to a game of chess or pickleball.
Some of my group were spending a blissful afternoon in the (very hot) hot tub on the beach, when a familiar face suddenly appeared. “Room for one more?” Richard asked. Considering the pool could easily accommodate an entire football team (including substitutes), there was plenty of room and the next hour passed with plenty of laughter as we discussed everything from pacing to curry, before Richard challenged me to the nearby ice pool to defy.
Do not disturb
While Necker does indeed take the concept of luxury to the next level – and rightly so for such a price tag – Alan and Suzanne may be surprised to discover just how understated it is. Yes, your every need is met and there is always someone around if you need anything, but there is no fuss, no fuss, no formality.
Necker is designed as a home away from home – and that’s exactly what it feels like. The relaxed atmosphere means the staff are friendly and guests can help themselves, including going behind the bar for another bottle of Necker Water.
This refreshingly relaxed approach extends to dining, with everything from beachside wood-fired pizzas to mouth-watering Asian dinners, served family style rather than a la carte. But no meal is more impressive than the famous sushi kayak lunch, a popular Necker tradition that involves a canoe beautifully loaded with delicate Japanese delicacies and pushed through the palm-lined waters of the main pool, complete with Buddha statues, waterfalls and bridges . . You don’t get that in North Wales.
Completely white at night
You don’t have to pack too much for a trip to Necker. T-shirt and shorts for dinner? No problem. But there is one occasion with a dress code. Alan and Suzanne shouldn’t forget to bring an all-white outfit for White Night up at the Great House – another beloved Necker tradition that involves partying until the early hours to the sounds of a live DJ.
Thomas, the island’s charismatic mixologist, keeps the drinks flowing, not only whipping up a mean margarita but also doling out hangover-inducing SOS shots of hydrating electrolytes.
The action inevitably ends with dancing on the 40-foot-long table under glowing ostrich egg chandeliers – just as Kate Moss sometimes does.
And if Alan doesn’t have a white tuxedo, there’s no need to panic. I jokingly arrived with the Necker Island bathrobe from my room which was a treat.
Moments of loneliness
Despite being a place that’s all about bringing good people together for good times, it’s easy to grab quiet moments on Necker to just sit and think.
I recommend that the couple go to the roof of the Big House at sunset, where the cozy crow’s nest hot tub offers solitude and beautiful views of the Necker flamingos flying and circling the island.
Attractions nearby
It’s tempting to spend every possible minute exploring Necker, but Alan and Suzanne would be foolish to miss the chance to explore further afield. The low-lying coral island of Anegada is the northernmost spot in the archipelago and is known for its shipwrecks and underwater caves. Closer to home is Virgin Gorda (“Fat Virgin,” so named by Christopher Columbus), the third largest in the chain and considered by many to be the most picturesque. A visit to the Baths – a collection of colossal boulders and secret rock pools – is not to be missed, while the main settlement of Spanish Town is a great place for people watching.
Essentials
Necker Island can be booked on an exclusive use basis from £117,992 per night for up to 48 guests. Individual rooms are available on selected dates from £4,762, based on two sharing (virginlimitededition.com).