As the men’s F/W 2024 circuit draws to a close, fashion editors look back at the catwalks of Pitti Uomo, Milan and Paris. They process the clothes, reflect on standout looks and, most importantly, predict which trends will have the greatest staying power this year. .
And boy, is there a lot to unpack. From Sabato De Sarno’s first Gucci menswear show to Pharrell’s second collection, as well as countless exciting showcases from British designers like Grace Wales Bonner and SS Daley – this season is sure to make a huge dent in our 2024 wardrobes.
Throughout the packed program, one thing remained clear: streetwear is out. Instead, we offer a fresh take on what has become runaway-dominated modern masculinity – from office workers at Prada, cowboys at Louis Vuitton and ’80s grandpa-core inspiration at Martine Rose.
Quiet luxury and minimalism, also gone! With more adventurous and gender-fluid silhouettes across multiple collections, it’s shaping up to be one of the best years in menswear yet.
Skirts
Come on, this year it’s all about the drop crotch skirt-covered shorts, also known as the ‘skort’. Well, that is if the recent runways are anything to go by. Louis Vuitton sent a khaki green one layered over trousers down the runway, while Fendi flirted with chunky navy wool iterations, as did Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus and Junya Watanabe.
Although the skort is seen as a traditionally feminine silhouette, it actually has a long and storied history in menswear dating back to ancient Egypt, where men wore skirt-like ‘Shendyts’ around the waist. But even in the 21st century, the kilt is a mainstay, with heartthrobs A$AP Rocky, Robert Pattinson and Brad Pitt all parading red carpets in skirts last year. So make sure that 2024 is also the year when the mainstream jumps on the trend.
I love Wolf & Badger’s take below, which is perfect for any remaining gorp-core enthusiasts. For a more tailored look, Steven Meisel’s collection for Zara includes a fantastic box pleat wool-blend skirt for €49.99.
Fashion Western
With a market cap of over $363 billion, Louis Vuitton has a monstrous influence on what we will all wear. This season, LVMH’s golden child declared western wear, with the effects of the cowboy-inspired collection already being felt in Parisian street style roundups (though that may have just been guests wearing the cowboy hat sent as part of the show invite). Either way, with an assortment of chaps, tasseled jeans, cacti embroidered silk cowboy shirts and decorative bolo ties, there are plenty of other ways to experiment with the look. And not in a costumed way like during Beyonce’s blockbuster Renaissance tour. No, more like former fashion director of GQ Magazine Luke Day does it. Chic, fitted and American dandy-like.
Saffiano leather bolo tie, £390 (prada.com); blue classic jeans with cowboy cuff, £472 (yproject.fr/); Sta-Prest flare men’s jeans, £110 (levi.com); embroidered satin western jacket, £662 (ralphlauren.co.uk); cowboy boots with buckle, £59.99 (zara.com); embellished western shirt, £89 (cos.com)
All Tno pants
In 2023, pantyhose as pants was one of the prevailing trends in women’s clothing. Ever since mom Miuccia Prada sent an exhausted Emma Corrin down the runway without pants, celebrities like Kylie Jenner, Hailey Bieber and Lori Harvey have all taken the plunge. It’s a brave look, but everyone I know who has tried it has been an instant convert. Of course, leave it to JW Anderson and SS Daley to prove that everyone can join in on the fun, with both designers sending stocking-only models down the catwalk. Maybe not an everyday look, but we bet the most fashionable guys will be ditching their pants for tights this coming party season. While London Fashion Week will also be awash with hosiery and tights at FROW and in street style roundups.
Les Belles is known for their gender-expansive stockings, with tights specifically designed for maximum comfort. At only €15 per pair, they are also quite affordable. Style like JW Anderson with a thigh-length sweater, or invest in a pair of shorts to wear underneath.
Men who glitter
The menswear collections predict plenty of lavish entertainment venues in our agendas. That is, if you consider the amount of diamonds and glittering clothes that were on display on De Sarno’s highly anticipated debut, which featured low-neck glittering tanks, sweaters with diamond-encrusted lapels and shiny jackets. Dsquared2 also served sequined jackets, as did Fendi, MSGM and Gucci. While my favorite look at Dior was this sheer cardigan with a crystal-embellished ombre.
The best thing about this trend is that you can adjust your betting levels accordingly. Want to go all out? Then this Patrizia Pepe song is the right choice for you.
But for a more subdued take on the trend, Valentino’s gray studded jeans are suitable for brunch and the office.
High-shine coats
Whether it’s waxy leather or glossy vinyl, adding some shine to your jacket this season is just enough to make a statement without being overbearing. Very portable, very high quality and that is why it is high on our wish list. Loewe agrees, as evidenced by their wonderfully bright orange and green raincoats. Just like Dries Van Noten, Dior and Martine Rose, who all sent models down the catwalk in high-shine coats.
Create the look with the ultra wet look patent trench coat from STUDIO ID.
While Urban Outfitter’s BDG Alfie Brown Faux Leather Pilot Jacket (£89) is a great affordable option.
