Barbie, fashion daddies and Kylie Jenner’s year in style – how was 2023 your wardrobe?

A year in fashion: Barbie, fashion daddies, Kylie Jenner and cowboy Crocs (ES)

The rise of fashion fathers

Matthew Bomer, Andrew Scott, Jonathan Bailey and Paul Mescal, ready to break the internet (Evan Ross Katz)Matthew Bomer, Andrew Scott, Jonathan Bailey and Paul Mescal, ready to break the internet (Evan Ross Katz)

Matthew Bomer, Andrew Scott, Jonathan Bailey and Paul Mescal, ready to break the internet (Evan Ross Katz)

Daddy-dandyism is the viral male charge that keeps on giving. We’d like to know what this will soon mean for the atestosterone-strewn dining table near you. But when Andrew Scott, Paul Mescal, Jonathan Bailey and Matt Bomer posed together in a thirst-quencher of knitwear, the internet almost shut down in shock. You may also have noticed Jacob Elordi’s Saltburn premiere performances with Barry Keoghan, not to mention Taylor Swift’s new man, Travis Kelce, whose looks are getting more attention than she is. At the end of the year it is of course the turn of Timothée Chalamet and his brutal Tom Ford Wonka; and let’s not forget: A$AP Rocky’s Bottega Veneta campaign and Pedro Pascal’s legs at the Met Gala. High fashion catwalk look wearing men are our Roman Empire. No, you’re lurking.

Barbie and Birkenstocks

    (Getty Images for Warner Bros.)    (Getty Images for Warner Bros.)

(Getty Images for Warner Bros.)

Was it a wry, feminist look at visceral, demeaning portrayals of women, or was it simply an excuse for fashion labels to cash in on a litany of pink tat and for beauty brands to promote products that promise “as perfect as plastic” faces? If the thought of those fuchsia billboards still makes you feel triggered, bear with me: There’s awards season to get through. The film generated 1.1 billion views of #barbiecore on TikTok, as well as a plethora of somewhat inadvisable adult women dressing up as dolls. Fortunately, Pink’s stranglehold on fashion appears to be waning.

No jacket, just underpants

Emma Corrin in Miu Miu (Getty Images for Miu Miu)Emma Corrin in Miu Miu (Getty Images for Miu Miu)

Emma Corrin in Miu Miu (Getty Images for Miu Miu)

Emma Corrin’s appearance on the Miu Miu runway in Paris in March started a no-pants-required trend that’s in full swing this holiday season. According to fashion search engine Lyst, searches for hot pants have increased 133 percent year over year. A joy for us all. The slip look, as seen again at Corrin in Venice, picks up where the sheer, nude dress entered a strong trend. Some, Julia Fox for example, may wonder why they bother with clothes at all.

Richly dressed

Gwyneth Paltrow in a cream-colored cardigan from G.Label by Goop during her court appearance in Utah (AP)Gwyneth Paltrow in a cream-colored cardigan from G.Label by Goop during her court appearance in Utah (AP)

Gwyneth Paltrow in a cream-colored cardigan from G.Label by Goop during her court appearance in Utah (AP)

Was it only in March that Gwyneth Paltrow gave us the dreaded phrase stealth wealth in action with her compellingly casual looks at court in Utah? The endless think pieces ruminating on the meaning of Loro Piana knits and jackets from The Row were only partially sated by Succession’s finale. Quieter expensive clothes! Not to mention a very non-U ridiculously roomy bag. The bourgeois obsession with dressing like a rich person continues, with fawning explainers littering TikTok that requires buying a beige Zara sweater to look more like a city car than a subway carriage.

Letting Kylie happen

Kylie Jenner at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show in Paris in January (WireImage)Kylie Jenner at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show in Paris in January (WireImage)

Kylie Jenner at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show in Paris in January (WireImage)

This year the Kardashians gave fashion to Kylie. Until now, the mother of two has been more concerned about her lipstick tacolites, but after showing up at Paris Fashion Week’s Schiaparelli show with a giant (fake) lion taxidermy taped to her chest, Jenner stepped into the style spotlight. Her 399 million Instagram followers can now recreate her every pliable look with the newly launched Khy brand.

Tomato-girl summer

Hailey Bieber has mastered the art of Tomato Girl Summer (Hailey Bieber Instagram)Hailey Bieber has mastered the art of Tomato Girl Summer (Hailey Bieber Instagram)

Hailey Bieber has mastered the art of Tomato Girl Summer (Hailey Bieber Instagram)

Has TikTok killed real style? The tomato girl summer may have given Barbie Pink’s detractors something to chew on, but isn’t it time to think beyond the algorithm for our fashion tips? A thought.

Mother is the word

Phoebe Philo's £3000 Phoebe Philo's £3000

Phoebe Philo’s £3,000 “Mum” Necklace (Phoebe Philo)

Just when everyone was worrying about the dismal lack of women in creative director roles at luxury fashion houses, Phoebe Philo showed up with an internet-crashing offer of a £3,000 mother’s necklace. Her first collection was decidedly understated: ideal gray turtleneck knits and military-inspired jackets will soon hit stores near you. But there are also flashes of spotty leopard print shoe fun. Move over daddies, mom has returned.

Cowboy crocs

The Crocs cowboy boot (Crocs)The Crocs cowboy boot (Crocs)

The Crocs cowboy boot (Crocs)

Horrible, and not even splash-proof considering the holes in the side, but the Croc cowboy boots were still sold out. We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: What’s wrong with everyone?

Harry’s cardy

David Hockney paints Harry Styles in his Molly Goddard vest (PA)David Hockney paints Harry Styles in his Molly Goddard vest (PA)

David Hockney paints Harry Styles in his Molly Goddard vest (PA)

The simple cardigan emerged triumphantly at this year’s Knit du jour – albeit with something of a sexing-up (Pradas were sheer). Harry Styles’ striped Molly Goddard cardigan, immortalized by David Hockney, set the sweater tone for fall.

Bad taste on tour

Beyoncé strikes silver on her Renaissance world tour (WireImage for Parkwood)Beyoncé strikes silver on her Renaissance world tour (WireImage for Parkwood)

Beyoncé strikes silver on her Renaissance world tour (WireImage for Parkwood)

I’m not sure any of us had the money for feather boas and colorful cowboy hats for a cool moment in the sun, but there’s no need for pop fandom. Harry Styles and Beyoncé and their convoy of buses and stuff were scattered outside stadiums around the world. The Beyhive have also managed to seriously achieve top-to-bottom silver. Brace yourself for next year, when Taylor Swift’s Eras tour will bring Swiftie cosplay to the forefront of the UK tour.

The nerdy Noughties Sloane returns

Little Sims in loafers and socks at Skepta's London Fashion Week show in September (Getty Images)Little Sims in loafers and socks at Skepta's London Fashion Week show in September (Getty Images)

Little Sims in loafers and socks at Skepta’s London Fashion Week show in September (Getty Images)

Loafers and socks? Ballerinas? A white shirt with a stand-up collar and a sweater over the shoulders? The King’s Road tribute was strong this year. The £800 price tag didn’t stop Alaïa’s studded ballerinas from becoming the hottest flats of the year. Loafers with a hardware top and white sports socks came in a close second. For full immersion and OG Sloane-style cues, see Saltburn and The Crown.

Falls short

Rishi Sunak, comes up short (pants) (POOL/AFP via Getty Images)Rishi Sunak, comes up short (pants) (POOL/AFP via Getty Images)

Rishi Sunak, comes up short (pants) (POOL/AFP via Getty Images)

Menswear writer Derek Guy only had to shoot a few words at X to create an obsession with the length of Rishi Sunak’s trousers. In a slow August news cycle, he wrote: ‘It baffles me how the richest British Prime Minister in history could live just a stone’s throw from Savile Row, the largest concentration of skilled, bespoke tailors, and end up paying $2,000 for an MTM suit. with sleeves and trousers that are five to ten centimeters too short.” We’re just relieved he’s not still showing off his Palm Angels slippers.

The death of the floral dress?

A floral dress from John Lewis, reduced to bright (John Lewis)A floral dress from John Lewis, reduced to bright (John Lewis)

A floral dress from John Lewis, reduced to bright (John Lewis)

It’s been a long year, but in February John Lewis announced the death knell of the stranglehold the modest, midi-length floral dress has had over us for the past decade. We no longer had to wallow in the safe routine of blousy high street numbers paired with a white trainer. But a kind of warning. Next spring it’ll be drenched in enough rose motifs to put the kibosh on the brakes, but reconsider your shoe options.

The £15 It bag

Round Mini Shoulder Bag, £14.90, Uniqlo (Uniqlo)Round Mini Shoulder Bag, £14.90, Uniqlo (Uniqlo)

Round Mini Shoulder Bag, £14.90, Uniqlo (Uniqlo)

Right in the eye of the stealth wealth movement came a savior. Uniqlo’s half-moon bag, available in endless color options, has been viewed 119 million times on TikTok. We’ve seen enough of it now, but can appreciate the appeal of a useful, wallet-friendly companion.

Bow down

Bows at Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2023 (Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)Bows at Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2023 (Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Bows at Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2023 (Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

I say this with caution, but we may be reaching the peak of the arc. The items are spread across Christmas trees, bouncy castles and party dresses. Saloni’s three-tiered Camille number with crystal arches is one of Hurr’s most popular rentals. Which means everyone wears it. Ergo, maybe not?

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