Synonymous with safari and the big five, Kenya’s coast is often wrongly overlooked in favor of the country’s impressive game reserves. But with white sandy beaches and an ocean teeming with wild spinner dolphins, humpback whales and vibrantly colored fish, this is a part of the world you won’t want to miss.
Hemingway’s Watamu extends directly onto the paradise beach and is surrounded by swaying palms, manicured gardens dotted with bird of paradise flowers and a handful of swimming pools that reflect the cloudless, clear blue sky above. Hemingway’s Watamu embraces exhausted guests like long-lost friends. .
But it’s not just the surroundings that add to the magic, it’s also the people who work here who make this five-star resort feel like a real home away from home. Always willing to have a chat, Hemingways’ hardworking staff elevate this hotel from great to truly exceptional.
Where?
As the starting point for one of Kenya’s first protected marine parks, and recognized as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its abundance of coral gardens and impressive marine life, Watamu village – where Hemingways is located – is a truly unbeatable nature reserve. refuge.
The nearest airport to the hotel is 30 minutes away in the town of Malindi, a one hour and fifteen minute plane ride from the Kenyan capital Nairobi. Otherwise, it’s about a two-hour drive from Mombasa along an epic coastal road, where the ocean changes color by the second, from cobalt blue and azure to the brightest turquoise. Direct flights from London to Nairobi are available daily, from around £600 return with BA.
Style
With a fresh color palette of bright white, soft blue and sage green, the hotel is designed to let the natural beauty of the surrounding area really shine. The huge open plan restaurant area that offers breathtaking ocean views from almost every angle stands out as the focal point of the complex. Here, wicker tables and chairs are dressed with botanical print cushions, fresh flowers and a nod to the ocean with shell and coral-inspired artwork.
The bar, on the other hand, with its free and easy-going atmosphere, feels slightly more rustic, with wooden details and a focus on deep-sea fishing, as life-size die-cast models of marlin and hammerhead sharks stand proudly along the walls. It reminds me of establishments I’ve visited in Key West and Havana, places the hotel’s namesake, Ernest Hemingway, also visited. I can almost imagine the drunken writer, strong cocktail in hand, watching over the place at sunset.
A handful of pristine pools and the serene spa cater to holidaymakers who just want to fly and flop, while the huge tennis court and well-equipped gym are ideal for a holiday round or workout.
Which room?
Hemingways Watamu features 76 rooms, all with ocean views and in categories ranging from luxury single rooms to two-bedroom apartments. For a holiday that really impresses, the Residence Suites are the right choice. Residence number eight is one of the most impressive, with a spacious double en-suite bedroom complete with a four-poster four-poster bed, a separate twin bedroom with en-suite and large bath, a large open plan living-dining room with kitchen. which is larger than most apartments in London, and has a private terrace all around with sun lounger and sun loungers.
Two comfortable large sofas, a round wooden dining table, a desk and a full kitchen ensure that guests can stay at Hemingways comfortably for months on end if they wish. There is even a large walk-in closet. The decor is tastefully simple, without too much fuss and fuss. Just like in the rest of the hotel, it is the views that demand all the attention.
Eat Drink
Buffet dining can sometimes mean poor or bland dishes, but that is not the case at Hemingway’s. The breakfast options offer an abundance of delicious options, with fresh fruit juices, tart passionfruit, locally grown melons and pancakes being highlights. But there’s everything you can imagine, from eggs and crispy bacon to waffles and pastries and plenty of incredible Kenyan tea and coffee – all served overlooking the Indian Ocean.
A buffet dinner is also available every evening, but you can also order from the a la carte menu, with seafood being the standout option. Native grilled rock lobster slathered in butter, fresh shrimp with chili and garlic, and all the house specialties – black pepper kingfish, Swahili coconut chicken and Creole fish – all impress.
As the coastal area around Watamu has a strong Italian community dating back to the 1960s, it is not unusual to find good gelato and pasta in the town. Nearby Papa Remo serves authentic Italian cuisine with sublime service.
Extracurricular activities
While it would be easy to spend a week relaxing in Hemingways, it would be a shame not to visit the coral gardens which are bustling with wildly elegant marine life such as parrotfish, sweetlips, lionfish and snappers. The hotel can arrange boat trips that leave directly from the beach in front of the hotel, so guests can spend a few hours snorkeling, spotting wild dolphins or even getting up close to humpback whales, which can be seen for about four months of the year. , from June.
Eco World Watamu, just a short drive from the hotel, is a community-run project that collects plastic waste for sorting and recycling. Working with local women’s and youth groups, the organization promotes awareness of recycling and beach cleanups. Guided tours of the center can be booked through the hotel and offer an inspiring overview and the chance to pick up a recycled trinket.
Still longing for the big five? It is possible to see elephants occasionally visiting the watering holes of Arabuko Sokoke Swamp just before sunset. Then board a majestic single-sail dhow for a sunset cruise along Mida Creek, with a glass of wine in hand, it’s the ideal way to end a day in paradise.
Best for…
Daydreamers, nature lovers, couples, friends or families: this place is truly suitable for everyone. With direct access to the beach, endless activities, hospitable staff and fresh, home-cooked seafood, Hemingways Watamu is the ideal tropical holiday destination or the perfect location to unwind after the safari.
Double rooms available from €437 on a half board basis, hemingways-collection.com