You have to wonder what John Harris would think of Dubai. The glittering spire of the Burj Khalifa, the millionaires’ villas on the Palm Islands, the skyscraper-filled forest of the Marina – what would he think of it all? Because this bespectacled, little-known British architect was the unlikely visionary of the city you see before you today, or at least the very first blueprint.
In 1959, Harris was commissioned by Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al-Maktoum, then ruler of Dubai, to devise a plan that would elevate it from an obscure port city to a global hub – and capture the world’s attention. This year is only the 65th anniversary of that first meeting, but the transformation of the city is almost unbelievable: there were no paved roads then, no infrastructure; the water supplies were carried by donkeys.
Harris’ plan aimed to change all that, but it only gained real momentum in 1966, when a ‘jam jar’ of crude oil was placed in the hands of Sheikh Rashid, the result of new drilling beneath his family’s sands. Black gold. The emirate’s story from rags to riches began.
High rollers and roller coasters
As you gaze at the dancing fountains of Downtown, bounce over the waves on a jet ski, or swim 50 floors above the city at Aura Skypool, it’s impossible not to be invigorated by Dubai’s joie de vivre. The city is endlessly exuberant, bent on impressing – the sun-drenched, cheerful antithesis to the murkier outlook of our nation itself. And who can blame it? When the United Arab Emirates was founded in 1971, Abu Dhabi became the capital, relieving Dubai of any semblance of seriousness. Five decades later, it has turned frivolity into an art form – but it also has rich and intriguing depths.
Unlike most holidays, city breaks are not a retreat from the world. You don’t have to laze around or nap in lonely solitude: they put you right in the middle of the action. Senses on fire, you’ll bounce between famous sights and little-known gems, immersed in new customs and culture. They excite, surprise, inspire – and nowhere does that happen more fervently than in Dubai.
Art lovers can discover the Middle East’s creative scene through Alserkal’s bold independent galleries and contemporary exhibitions at the Jameel Arts Centre. For history, there’s the excellent Dubai Museum, housed in an 18th-century tribal fort; For shopping, you can find everything from high street to haute couture in Dubai’s many shopping centers – or you can test your bargaining skills in the Gold Souk. From epic water rides and slides at Wild Wadi to over 2.0 kilometers of rollercoasters at Dubai Parks and Resorts, the family offering is also tip-top. And the hotels are fantastic: they include luxury beach resorts, chic urban digs, and plentiful budget-friendly (but spotlessly clean) options.
Dubai is also home to a special diaspora: more than 200 nationalities live here, a cultural mix that puts most metropolises in the shade. The Deira and Bur Dubai neighborhoods teem with Omani antique dealers, Indian sari shops and Iranian spice merchants, while food tours with Frying Pan Adventures cover everything from Emirati camel milk gelato to Sichuan noodles, via dishes from Iraq, Pakistan and Egypt. At the other end of the spectrum, the city boasts fourteen Michelin-starred restaurants and a number of ‘secret’ supper clubs, whose chefs hail from Nicaragua, Palestine, Mexico and beyond.
Highs, hits – and misses
Untethered by red tape or pocketbooks, Dubai’s architecture has surpassed even Sheikh Rashid’s wildest dreams. But it’s not just there to be admired: atop the 150-metre-high Dubai Frame, you can walk the invigorating (or terrifying) glass-bottomed walkway; In the silver belly of the torus-shaped Museum of the Future you will find playful visions of the life and technology of the coming centuries.
Of course, Dubai doesn’t do everything right. It’s not exactly walkable (but taxis are cheap), it’s prohibitively hot in the summer (but still lovely from November to March), and it’ll probably damage your credit card – on the same scale as, say, New York or Tokyo. Some of the older attractions also feel awkward, like Aquaventure Waterpark’s ‘dolphin encounters’ and Ski Dubai’s penguins – but does every city get everything right? Instead, opt for a desert safari with Platinum Heritage, to spot wild gazelles and Arabian oryx in the sea of dunes of the wider emirate.
Naysayers often scoff that the UAE has “no real culture,” as if that can only be achieved through ancient cathedrals on cobbled streets, or oil paintings hung in venerable galleries. But the heritage is tangible: in the spice-laden souks along the Dubai Creek waterway, for example, and in the old Al Fahidi district, with its intricate warren of coral stone houses built in the 19th century by wealthy pearl traders. Here you’ll find secret courtyard cafes, craft shops and beautiful niche museums specializing in Arabic coins, coffee and calligraphy. On a warm, dim evening, the call to prayer sounds from the rooftops: goosebumps guaranteed.
In 1971, Harris presented a new, more ambitious urban design in light of Dubai’s oil wealth – which in turn evolved numerous times over the decades as the city grew larger and bolder. But for all its grand plans, Dubai has never forgotten to have a great time, a lesson we can all learn from – and perhaps the most important ingredient of a city break.
How to get there
Dubai’s flagship airline, Emirates (0344 800 2777; emirates.com), flies direct to the city 18 times a day from seven UK airports. The journey takes seven hours and costs approximately £535 return. British Airways (britishairways.com), Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) and Royal Brunei (flyroyalbrunei.com) also fly direct from the UK.