Call them slides, call them thongs – the thong sandal is the original divisive footwear, long before Crocs, Uggs and ‘dad’ sneakers.
Everyone will be familiar with the sight of an unkempt foot on a molded foam sole, held together by a pair of plastic or nylon straps. They usually emerge at the first sight of the sun. They may be comfortable and transcend age and gender, but fashion is not.
And yet, if you’re a fan of the sleek, expensive aesthetic sold by designer labels like Toteme, Brunello Cucinelli and The Row, it might be time to get reacquainted with the flip-flop. This year they are back in style, and not only for beach holidays, but also for the city, for work, for weddings and parties. They have undergone a rebrand – when done right, they are now seen as a beautifully minimalist shoe choice.
They can also be shockingly expensive. Former Céline creative director Phoebe Philo’s latest product ‘drop’ features a 75mm wedge pair with thin suede straps. The price? £750. That’s a bargain compared to The Row’s best-selling Ginza flip-flop flatform, which retails for £960 (M&S does an excellent tribute for £35). Still, you can expect these luxurious thongs everywhere this summer, from the swimming pool at Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc to the Serpentine Summer Party.
“I like to pair mine with an elegant dress for evening, or a cotton shirt and tailored shorts for day,” says Christina Martini, co-founder of Ancient Greek Sandals, which sells elegant leather styles for men, women and children. “I think you have to balance their inherent nonchalance by dressing up a little.”
National retailers’ investment in a particular trend is a strong indication that it is going to be big, and for M&S, slippers are part of a wider offering that is strong in stylish flats, says Lisa Illis, head of womenswear design: “It is a key shoe trend that we have confidently believed in and know is important to our customers… They really come into their own during the summer season, offering a versatile high-low styling option for a relaxed holiday or a more sophisticated look. ”
Even flip-flop specialists have seen an increase: “In the first quarter of 2024, we witnessed a 25 percent growth in traffic and a 27 percent increase in sales in our e-commerce compared to the same period last year ” says Harm van de Camp, the president of Alpargatas Europe in Havaianas, while OluKai has seen sales of its classic Ohana sandal increase by 41 percent year-on-year, and those of its Honu sandal by 34 percent.
This is one of the most accessible trends of the summer – and I say trend in the loosest sense, because that’s never the case Real left, right? They’re comfortable and easy to find on the high street, so you don’t have to pay hundreds of euros for a pair.
All you need to do is think about when you’re most likely to wear them so you get the pair that best suits your lifestyle, and stick to these clear guidelines…
The rules
Get a pedicure
This is non-negotiable, for both men and women. There’s nowhere to hide with a slipper, and an unkempt foot is the death knell for your summer look, no matter how nice your clothes are. A basic pedicure will at least keep your feet in good health.
Make them sleek and chic
They should look like an aesthetically pleasing shoe choice, not orthopedic walking sandals. Opt for suede or leather if you want to wear them in a work or social context, stick to neutral colors and avoid anything with fussy logos or patterns.
Arm yourself with band-aids
No footwear should rip your feet to shreds, but a little irritation with new shoes is inevitable. Recognize it early and apply a cloth patch (that really won’t come off) to the area as soon as possible if you suspect a blister may be forming. Prevention is better than cure, and the wear should disappear after a few wears.
Know when to break up
We’ve all worn our beloved shoes to death, but this is a polished look, and there’s a point where a pair of slippers just doesn’t look appealing anymore. At that stage of deterioration, a battered shoe is probably not good for the health of your feet or your posture. Keep in mind that if you initially invest in a pair of quality sandals, you will find that they last longer than a pair of budget shoes.
What to buy
In the city
If you plan to wear your sandals in a more formal context than the beach, caution is advised. Rubber slippers are great, but not for the office. Instead, look for a leather pair. A wider strap at the top, or, in the case of women’s sandals, a small heel, can also add a refined touch.
Ladies: Mera leather sandal, £160, Ancient Greek sandals ancient-greek-sandals.com; Men: Mr. P Fede suede sandals, £195, Mr Porter mrporter.com
On holiday
If you want the functionality of a waterproof pair of slides without sacrificing style, keep it simple. Havaianas’ new Una Açai style features a button detail, which looks smart and nods to the look of Miu Miu’s Riviere sandals.
Ladies: Una Acai sandal, £45, Havaianas havaianas-store.com; Men: Tuahine Waterproof Sandals, £105, OluKai oukai.co.uk
To a party
Men should proceed with caution here, as a thong sandal will only feel truly appropriate on a beach or in a sweltering hot environment. However, wear them in the right context and it will look fantastic with a linen suit. These Dear Frances sandals for women have a low heel, perfect for dancing the night away.
Ladies: Flis seagrass sandal, £450, Dear Frances dearfrances.com; Men: Claremont leather sandal, £125, Russell & Bromley russellandbromley.com