Law Roach has always believed in the power of fashion: that’s why he paid tribute to John Galliano at the Met Gala, what inspired his first book (out September 24), and why he thinks the practice of method dressing affects so many people. resonates. .
“I think the right girl in the right dress at the right time is very powerful,” Roach told WWD. “It surrounds you with a community, and those people become your supporters. As a consumer of anything, it’s more about the story: the ‘why’. Why should we listen to that song? Why would we wear those shoes? Why should we watch that movie? You want to make sure you have a clear story. And I think fashion helps you paint that story.”
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For Roach, the right girl in the right dress is often Zendaya, whose wardrobe he has managed for more than a decade. His work with the Emmy-winning actress has not only raised his own profile, but hers as well, transforming her from tween idol to bona fide starlet.
“When I first started styling Zendaya, no one would lend us clothes,” Roach explains. “Out of necessity, we had to find emerging designers and younger brands. We have always done that and we continue to do that today.”
Roach’s affinity for emerging design talent led him to his current role on E’s ‘OMG Fashun’. The new reality competition series, hosted by Julia Fox, sees unknown ‘disruptors’ transform recycled materials into catwalk-ready couture.
“Julia doesn’t just work with emerging designers because it’s cool; it’s something everyday for her and it’s authentically who she is. You want someone who not only talks, but also puts his words into action.”
Judging is familiar territory for Roach, who chaired panels on Max’s “Legendary” and the 2016 reboot of “America’s Next Top Model.” He plans to bring the same candor — and sharper humor — to “OMG.”
The show’s May 6 debut followed a busy season of press tours in which Zendaya promoted her latest projects, “Dune: Part Two” and “Challengers.” The latter, Luca Guadagnino’s drama about a love triangle between three athletes, spawned several viral fashion moments and a “tennis score” craze.
The hashtag “Tashi Made Me Wear,” which references Zendaya’s character in the film, became a vehicle for fans of “Challengers” (and Zendaya’s themed press tour wardrobe) to share their own sporty-chic looks on social media.
“Anytime my work can bring people closer together or start a conversation, that’s what I’m most proud of,” Roach beamed.
The image architect has called this practice ‘method dressing’, a play on method acting, because he sees the art of styling as a form of storytelling. That’s why he admires Galliano so much, who inspired him to enter the fashion industry.
“I’m a big fan of Galliano’s work because I really wanted to be a part of the world he created growing up on the South Side of Chicago,” Roach said.
His dream came true when Galliano agreed to design a dress for Zendaya at the Met Gala. Roach paid tribute to the controversial creative director’s legendary career, celebrating his previous tenures at Christian Dior and Givenchy and his presence at Maison Margiela, with two standout looks.
Galliano, known for his elaborate runways that rival stage productions, returned from vacation with a five-page sketch of who Zendaya’s red carpet character would be. Under the Margiela label, he created a design based on one he debuted at Dior’s couture presentation in spring 1999. At the same time, it was reminiscent of the dark, romantic palettes and striped fabrics from Galliano’s acclaimed spring 2024 collection for Margiela.
The actress’s matching accessories made for high-profile collaborations: her sky-high fascinator was designed by Stephen Jones, while Christian Louboutin created custom pumps in the style of Margiela’s signature split-toe tabis.
Completing the dress came down to the last detail: Zendaya attended her first fitting just two days before the Gala.
“I wasn’t stressed,” Roach said. “I always trust that things will happen the way they are supposed to happen.”
As Roach led his client up the iconic steps of the Metropolitan Museum and through the hallowed halls of the neo-Gothic building, he kept his eyes peeled for possible wardrobe malfunctions.
“She’s already a tall girl,” he said of Zendaya. “She’s fifteen and she had six-inch heels. Then she had a hat that was about six inches, so she was very tall. We went through tunnels like this at the Met and every time I said, ‘Hat!’ she would submerge.”
With permission from Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue and the Gala’s chief planner, Roach reserved a private room at the museum to accomplish Zendaya’s transformation.
“Because Zendaya was co-chair, she was in a receiving line,” Roach explained. “Then we snuck away to change the look. We’ve already practiced with this kind of thing, so we know exactly how much time it would take to change the makeup and everything. We went through it and the Met staff was so generous and kind to be part of our stories.”
The actress’s second look, a regal off-the-shoulder gown with a dramatic train, came from Galliano’s Spring 1996 couture collection for Givenchy. It had been worn only once before, on the catwalk, by Veronica Webb, the first black supermodel to score an exclusive contract with Revlon.
“We like to refer to those who came before us,” Roach added.
Zendaya bought the Rococo-inspired piece from Rita Watnick of Lily et Cie in Beverly Hills. The boutique often targets high-profile clients, although many typically prefer to borrow.
“The way we look at it is we support small businesses,” Roach said. “I think it’s unfair to borrow things from people who use these clothes for their livelihood.”
All the Premiere Red Carpet Looks from Zendaya’s ‘Challengers’ [PHOTOS]
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He cleverly styled Zendaya’s Givenchy gown with a Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen chapeau, which took the shape of an upside-down bouquet.
In the hoity-toity fashion world, re-wearing last season’s pieces was once considered passé. However, as the industry tries to adopt more sustainable practices, archival looks are gracing many recent red carpets.
“What I pray is that it doesn’t fade away, but that it remains an important part of our lifestyle,” Roach said of the thrift store craze. After all, he was already digging the shelves of thrift stores long before it became trendy: his first His only job in fashion was selling vintage clothes out of the trunk of his car.
Roach is still a collector of antique clothing. The weekend before the Met Gala, he shared a photo of an Emanuel Ungaro wedding dress he owns on Instagram. “We had the dress the whole time,” he wrote, adding a facepalm emoji.
Roach acquired the piece, dated 1996, from an Ebony Fashion Fair auction. The magazine’s late owner, Eunice Johnson, counted the floral lace dress among her extensive archive.
“She went to Paris to shop for couture and see the shows,” Roach said. “And she wanted to bring that back to her community. She bought collections and organized a traveling fashion show that went to churches and black neighborhoods to show them what Paris couture looked like. She took advantage of this to tell designers to work with black models. Having that dress reminds you: if there had been no Eunice Johnson, there might not have been a Law Roach.
Roach’s book, “How to Build a Fashion Icon: Notes on Confidence from the World’s Only Image Architect” is now available for pre-order.
Met Gala 2024 red carpet arrival photos, live updates
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Launch Gallery: All the Premiere Red Carpet Looks from Zendaya’s ‘Challengers’ [PHOTOS]
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