Milan’s Fall/Winter 2024 shows proved to be exceptionally wearable collections. Milan has never been as adventurous/scandalous as Paris. Bourgeois conformism is in the soul. But after a post-pandemic spending spree (me neither, but the rebound in many major brands suggests a lot of us went on a massive shopping spree), reality has bitten. For many brands, spending has fallen and that has tended to focus on tactile, luxurious-feeling fabrics and wearable clothing that scores high on special details and longevity.
While there are some investment items to note—a new skirt shape, thigh-high or riding boots, and some color changes—much of what stood out came down to styling ideas, each of which will update your existing looks. Read more…
Give your beige a boost
Milan’s love for taupe isn’t going away anytime soon. Every shade, from camel to light biscuit, has been questioned by most designers lately as they tune into ‘quiet luxury’. But Northern Italians have always loved this particular part of the spectrum. Max Mara has built an entire brand on the concept of “Camelandiab”. But realizing that some skin tones can look alarmingly washed out with these pale shades, designers have added some extra color to the mix.
The most popular is medium blue, which goes particularly well with all shades of cream and brown. Gucci’s new designer Sabato De Sarno loves it so much that he added nothing but taupe skin. And voilà, wearing the ultra-rich set’s favorite neutral set no longer has to make you look jaundiced. Progress people, progress.
Skirts with a sting in the tail
What you need to know: Miniskirts are back on the agenda. But don’t worry, there are plenty of alternative options. Midis and maxis are in abundance and instead of going straight up and down, some now have (subtle) side mermaid tails or pleated inserts. It may sound fussy, but in the hands of Maximilian Davis, Ferragamo’s British designer, it isn’t. But it’s flattering.
The knitted jacket
Is it a jacket or a vest? It’s both: the friendliness of one, the cleverness of the other. We’re talking winter, remember, and while a blazer may seem like a year-round investment, many of us give up on ours once the weather we’re wearing coats in has a chilly grip on us. As designers turn their attention to the cardigan jacket, you can be sure it will become increasingly refined and streamlined. In Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s sophisticated Hitchcock heroine-inspired collection, the eponymous Serafini paired it with trousers in the same color in a different fabric: a beautiful play with textures that looks very smart and relaxed.
Another takeaway? The carved brooch pin is back. Add one to an existing knit to take it to the next level.
Polo necks and high boots
Let it not be said that Milanese fashion is an exclusive club open only to wealthy members. From now on, you could get by by adding a pair of tall boots and a turtleneck with everything (dresses, shirts, tanks, jackets, bustiers) and look completely on point. Excellent coverage for necks and warm polo necks also reduce the need for a scarf, which is a shame if you like scarves, but good if you tend to leave them everywhere. This is truly a win-win situation.
Be brave with bright colors
As beige and black and white have taken over fashion lately, bright colors have gained a kind of unsophisticated reputation (credit some of that to Barbie; it killed pink for a while). But when Miuccia Prada says that purple and red, chartreuse and bubblegum pink can go together, her power and influence is so great that the rest of the industry will follow suit. And like them, they’ll wear them with black, a combination previously considered very ’80s, and not in a good way (not that there’s much ’80s that can be interpreted in a “good way”).
Meanwhile, Adrian Appiolaza, who was only appointed creative director of Moschino in January, has put together an impressively confident collection that incorporates the jokey elements, smiley faces, peace symbols and colors that are essential to the label, but with an added everyday look. elegance. That tufty daffodil yellow sweater is a striking appearance.
Yet another way out: Miuccia is 74 and still has enormous influence in this supposedly youth-fixated world. Well done.
Not just about the blazer. Meet your new utility jacket
A blazer will never go out of fashion. Milan was full of them. But for your consideration, here are some other suggestions: A shorter chore jacket. At Loro Piana, a label that doesn’t know what recession means, thanks to its announcement in Succession As the ultra-rich person’s favorite if-you-know label, the sleeveless combat jacket has just reached its apotheosis.
Meanwhile, Brunello Cucinelli is also a master at making the most luxurious pieces appear relaxed and understated to the naked eye. This is where David Beckham goes if he wants to become the Shepherd of the Cotswolds. It’s so expensive that Carrie Bradshaw, now a very wealthy if not particularly cheerful widow, alluded to the prices in awe on an episode of And just like…. This is the job jacket to set your benchmark: pale, natural fibers and a cut that means you can wear it day or night and the overdressed brigade will be gritting their teeth wondering why it looks so good.
Take out: Interesting that these ultra-luxury labels embrace practicality. Is that the new rich person’s flex?
The always versatile shirt
Good cotton shirts have become one of the staple staples loved by influencers for their versatile styling options. Wear them over tank tops, over skinny ribbed sweaters, under dungarees, strapless dresses, back to front, with sleeves rolled up, or dangling if you’re willing to tolerate the ridicule. And now… you wear them with another shirt.
Probably not. But the upside is that a beautiful, durable, boxy masculine shirt can work well as a summer jacket.
Bellissima Burgundy
Burgundy has pushed brown into second place for the most popular winter shade. Some designers have introduced burgundy shades from head to toe, but that is not recommended if it does not suit you. Close to the face it is not easy, but it is a beautiful accent color: boots, gloves, bags, belts. At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy opted for a more wearable approach than before (let’s just say that previous collections were more about concepts and accessories than everyday luxury). A striking appearance is the semi-fitted dress that combines burgundy red with cream and chocolate. Nice.
The car coat
Beautiful coats abound in Milan – the ultimate in luxury (see Alberta Ferretti’s chartreuse version below). But if you find all that material impractical, the answer is here too. Car coats came in all fabrics, from evening brocade to this plush dream from Gucci.
Finally: accessories that make a difference
Bags and shoes are never an afterthought in Milan. After all, many of the most established houses here – Prada, Gucci, Tod’s, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo – started out with luggage, bags or shoes.
What you need to know:
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Shiny riding boots and waders will be everywhere on the high street next season.
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Bags are soft and ergonomic (when a brand offers three shades from the camel spectrum a la Valextra, you know you’re on planet luxury)
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Scarves to match coats are probably the chicest update you can make (inspired, I think, by Swedish label Toteme’s popular blanket stitch coat and matching scarf, which has consistently sold out since its 2022 launch). By the way, that chartreuse Ferretti coat? Another important color for next fall.