Retailers will find it difficult to say goodbye to Dries Van Noten, who told WWD about his plans to step down from the creative helm of his company later this year. They said they will miss the color, lightness of touch and the gardener’s love of flowers, which he brought to men’s and women’s fashion. Here, European and American buyers pay tribute to him.
Alix Morabito, general manager of purchasing and merchandising for women’s clothing at Galeries Lafayette:
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This is the saddest news: he is one of my most beloved designers. With Dries it was never about the show, but about the pieces and the appearance of the clothes. You put them on, put your hand in the pocket and you walk in a different direction. It’s also the only collection where I feel like I can buy color. His light blue is not just that; there is also a hint of green in it. I also like his approach to uniforms – he does it in a colorful way. But it’s not just color. There are two dialogues he has with women: he can act black, sober, minimalist – and he can also make fireworks. And he can do them together – or separately.
Laura Larbalestier, Fashion Director, Harvey Nichols Group:
The Dries appointment in Antwerp is a coveted excursion among buyers. Upon arrival at reception there is always a beautiful bouquet of flowers from Dries’ famous garden. As you go to the fifth floor and step out of the elevator, you enter his universe. There is a sense of excitement and surprise about the collection you are about to discover. Of course, there are immediately recognizable things about Dries’ clothes – the unexpected color combinations, the embroidery and the fabrics, but these are not the only references that should be part of the brand’s follow-up. Part of the brand’s magic is that it can reference everything from David Bowie to the Qing Dynasty and collaborations with Christian Lacroix. It is inherent to the brand’s DNA to take all these unexpected references and make them distinctive and wearable.
In many ways, this announcement and the timing of Dries’ succession are in line with the idea of the unexpected and operating on its own terms.
Over the years, Dries has built up a very loyal customer base who collect items from different collections, instead of responding to seasonal trends, and feel personally connected to the brand. Buying Dries for so many years has been one of the highlights of my career, and one of my greatest teachers. The company values the people who continue to work there, and they are well equipped to evolve and continue this rich and complex legacy.
Tracy Margolies, head of merchandising, Saks:
We will forever be grateful to Dries for the creative vision and beauty he has shared with all of us over the past 38 years. Dries’ unique sense of color and his use of prints, patterns and textures made each collection so special, bringing joy and inspiration to fashion and creating a lasting legacy. We are honored to have shared Dries’ vision with the Saks customer and look forward to continuing the story in the next chapter of the legendary house. Our best wishes for Dries on his next adventure. We will miss him, but we are so grateful for the impact he made on our industry.
Michael Kliger, CEO of Mytheresa:
Dries has built a unique brand with very strong codes. And, even more impressive, he has built a company with a unique ethos and culture. He leaves a great legacy and will be missed.
Richard Johnson, Commercial Director, Mytheresa:
Dries has always followed his own path, consistently building a story from season to season in which various cultural influences merged. He is an increasingly rare example of a designer who has taken the time to hone his craft, on his own terms, without following the whims of fashion. His deeply personal history in fabrics and manufacturing has always been central to his best work, combining beautiful materials, striking prints and textures with his unique knowledge of tailoring.
We have so many fond memories of following his lead through the Antwerp showroom through countless buying sessions, catwalk shows from brutalist buildings on the Peripherique to the grandeur of École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts and of course the beautiful event we organized together at his home . by Axel Vervoordt. So many memories, he will be missed!
Simon Longland, purchasing director at Harrods:
Dries Van Noten has achieved something exceptional, possibly unique. His work received universal praise from retailers, press and customers alike. He has always been known for his ability to defy boundaries, always staying true to his unique vision while remaining current and timeless. With an astonishing ability to offer a new outlook and approach in his designs, he is known for his mastery of colour, fabric and technique. His work will undoubtedly continue to inspire both current and future designers for many years to come.
Judd Crane, executive director of purchasing at Selfridges:
Dries Van Noten has led the way and shown us what is possible as a designer, building a brand that so many love. While I am saddened to think that Mr. Van Noten’s personal creative genius will not manifest itself in the brand’s future collections, my overriding emotion is one of absolute appreciation and gratitude for all he has created over the years.
Beth Buccini, Founder/Owner, Kirna Zabête:
When I was a young fashion editor, I remember attending my first Dries Van Noten show in Paris. It was a transformative experience. I had never seen a designer with such a sense of color. During our showroom visit, the racks of vibrant clothing all mixed together were amazing. I almost cried tears of joy. From that collection I bought a pair of fuchsia pants that I still own and wear! Now, as a retailer who sells Dries, I can confirm that he has a cult following. His outspoken point of view and his magical touch give his clothes so much emotion. This is an almost impossible feat to accomplish for such a long time. These are big shoes to fill.
Lana Todorovich, head of merchandising, Neiman Marcus:
Dries Van Noten’s extraordinary talent offers a unique perspective that will be greatly missed. His artistic expression and innovative approach to design have made him a standout in the industry for decades. As a long-standing brand partner, he has a devoted following among our customers who are drawn to his remarkable craftsmanship and exceptional statements in print and color.
Launch gallery: Belgian designer Dries Van Noten Runway collections from the archive
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