You’ve heard of King Charles and his Savile Row suits, Prince William’s cheerful velvet evening slippers and, after last summer’s viral X-thread (formerly Twitter), King Filipe VI of Spain’s impeccable approach to tailoring.
But what about Fernando Fitz-James Stuart, 17th Duke of Huéscar? The self-proclaimed ‘menswear man’ of the internet, Derek Guy (@dieworkwear on X) – who noted the Spanish king’s flawless Wimbledon ensemble last July – has decided that[he] could be the second most stylish living royal family (after the King of Spain).”
Fitz-James Stuart, the grandson of the late Grand Duchess of Alba – the world’s most mentioned grandee at the time of her death in 2014 – married Sofía Palazuelo Barroso in a lavish ceremony in 2018 and has since become the blue-blooded Iberian style icon whose we didn’t know we needed it.
But what is it about the Spanish aristocrat that really sets his appearance apart? And more importantly, how can you emulate this in your own wardrobe if you don’t come from one of the richest families in your country?
Here are seven important style lessons you can learn from the best-dressed royal you’ve never heard of.
1. It pays to stick to a uniform (which isn’t a uniform)
There’s a lot to be said for finding a tailoring bucket that works and working through it until you develop a distinctive personal style. It is a trick that the Duke of Huéscar has perfected in his 33 years.
When not in ceremonial dress, the aristocrat opts for a simple uniform of high-collared shirts and impeccable tailored garments that elongate his body and complement the broad shoulder width. The moody hue of his suits also matches the intensity of his colors beautifully.
“In addition to often wearing an official uniform on formal occasions, the Duke has also adopted a personal uniform for the rest of his assignments,” explains stylist Catherine Hayward. “Simple, dark single-breasted tailoring with an expensive silk tie for work or a casual rolled up shirt sleeve, basic chinos and shorts for the weekend. He never deviates from this formula. It is useful and it works.”
2. Go informal? Go preppy
A fan of distressed polo shirts, mid-rise chinos (importantly, paired with statement belts in complementary leather tones) and roomy button-down shirts, Duke’s off-duty style is infused with a touch of American prep. albeit with a European edge.
The key to achieving a look with equal sartorial confidence is to be like the Duke and stick to a simple palette of muted cobalt, washed sages, polished stones and dusty roses. This ensures that even though your casual garments are cut for comfort, they will look stylish due to their chromatic coherence.
“Off duty, the Duke has a John F Kennedy Jr. feel to it,” says menswear consultant Olie Arnold. “The right jeans, worn with the right formal shirt (but with the sleeves rolled up and just enough chest showing), or a faded polo shirt paired with short shorts, shows an appreciation for style and confidence in what he is wearing, which is completely natural.”
3. Receive. A tailor
If you want to look as stylish as the Duke, you need to find a great tailor and give him the chance to work his magic on every garment you buy – ready-made or otherwise. This tailor doesn’t have to cost a lot of money, or have premises on Savile Row, but he should have a strong sense of silhouette and the ability to advise you on the best cut to suit your build.
“The Duke’s customization does three things,” Derek Guy explains on X. “1. The extended shoulder broadens his shoulder line. 2. The cinched waist gives it a V-shaped figure. 3. The longer jacket smooths out his hips and creates a line that continues down his legs.”
Be prepared that it may take some time to find a tailor who can accomplish all of the above points, so don’t be afraid to call on other stylish people you know for their recommendations – and be prepared to shop around to shop.
“The Duke clearly has a fantastic tailor or knows his onions when it comes to combinations and fit,” says Arnold. “I suspect he is wearing Tom Ford, because of the wider lapels, the strong shoulders and the tailored cut of the jackets. He looks elegant and expensive, but he also has the air of someone who has been trying on suits since they could crawl, so I’m sure they’re not off the shelf.”
4. When in doubt, keep it simple
Coco Chanel once said, “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take off one thing.” It’s a statement the Duke clearly lives by – whether intentionally or not – because the most accessorizing he ever does is with a perfectly knotted silk tie or a pair of nice sunglasses.
Instead, Fitz-James Stuart focuses his energy on the constituent elements of his look: the perfect bow of his lace-up Oxfords or the sleek yet draped cut of his shirts. “Fitz-James Stuart seems to find the balance between formality and contemporary,” says Arnold. “Don Draper’s quote, ‘make it simple, but significant’ feels appropriate when describing the dress codes of the current Duke of Huéscar.”
“There’s nothing wild or outrageous about his tailored looks,” agrees menswear designer Oliver Spencer. “There are no bold ties or eccentric linings – he just lets the cut and quality of his suits shine.”
5. Choose fuller pants
“The Duke is wearing slightly fuller trousers, which gives them a neater fit,” Guy writes in his post – a point stylist Gareth Scourfield agrees with; “The Duke seems to be quite sharp with the details and his tailoring is perfectly balanced. His hems touch the shoes at the right length and his pants are cut fuller so they hang from the waist.”
The predominant trend in recent years has been tight-fitting, tapered trousers, which end above the shoe, pull in at the calf and create a kind of carrot shape. However, the truth is that such a cut will make you look shorter and cling to the muscular parts of your leg – which you should avoid if you plan to walk while wearing your pants.
“You have to consider what your pants will look like not only when you’re standing still, but also when you’re moving,” Guy wrote. “The relative fullness of the Duke’s trousers also allows him to create a smooth, harmonious silhouette between the jacket and trousers [trousers].”
6. Your formal attire should never be an afterthought
While it may be tempting to save money by renting a morning suit or tuxedo, the truth is that a) you’ll be wearing it a lot more often than you think, and b) you’ll be appearing in a lot of photos doing so. It therefore makes more sense from a sartorial and financial perspective to do a Fitz-James Stuart and invest in good, tailored formal wear that is designed to fit your body and last a lifetime.
“The Duke is clearly well versed in formal wear – his choice of morning suit and waistcoat is always excellent,” says Oliver Spencer. “For example, he attended his brother’s wedding in 2021 wearing a traditional black morning suit with cashmere striped trousers, and paired this with a soft yellow waistcoat with shawl lapels, a light blue cut-out collar shirt and a navy blue tie in the same colour. All this shows a keen eye for detail and an appreciation for the power of good color combinations.”
7. Get the best out of your hair
Unlike most British aristocrats, who buzz their locks into submission or have very little hair to begin with, Fernando Fitz-James Stuart is blessed with a follicular fertility peculiar to his class and is fabulously unafraid to show it off .
‘I think it’s the Duke’s tailor’s suit break-the-resistance is his impressive head of hair,” agrees Catherine Hayward. “He has a healthy, shiny beard with just the right amount of exercise. It’s a bit reminiscent of George Michael in 1986 – all soft waves and smoldering – and is the perfect antidote to the simplicity of his wardrobe.”
Read more of Teo’s writing by subscribing The cabinet on Substack.
Recommended
The best-dressed king in Europe – and what King Charles and Prince William are doing wrong
read more