Although there is much debate about what a pintxo other than one tapa, no one will dispute that San Sebastián is the birthplace of pintxo (and pintxo heaven). Born in the mid-20th century, the pintxo has evolved from a simple bunch of pickled vegetables on a stick to a miniature piece of culinary art.
The right way to eat pintxos has remained unchanged since their birth: one drink, one bite and on to the next. Immerse yourself in the cozy dining culture, throw your napkin on the floor and order the hot pintxos from the kitchen – these are often the bar’s specialty. Although the light of San Sebastián’s Michelin stars shines blindingly, the pintxo scene always threatens to shift the spotlight to the fun, social form of enjoyment.
For more San Sebastián inspiration, check out our guide to the city and the best hotels, restaurants, nightlife and things to do.
Parte Vieja
Borda Berri
A sign above the bar of this busy pintxo spot on Fermín Calbetón, San Sebastián’s noisiest street, reads “Aki se guisa,” or “Here we cook slowly.” Look closer and you’ll see a bar sans pintxos, littered with diners, glasses of wine and hot pintxos of braised meats and sauces gleaming with demi-glace and solid cooking knowledge. This is the place to try traditional fish and meat dishes, from beef cheeks to cod tongues, all brought to tender perfection by the deft hands of chef Marc Clua.
Contact: 00 34 943 43 03 42
Prices: £
Opening hours: Wed-Thu, 12:30pm–3:30pm and 7:30pm–10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 12:30pm – 3:30pm and 7:30pm – 11pm; Sun, 12:30 PM – 3:30 PM
Reservations: Not possible
Ganbara
This family-run spot is still run daily by mother and son Amaia and Amaiur, who deftly balance greeting old customers with placing orders and putting together their famous ham and cheese croissant. Don’t be surprised if you have a hard time spotting them among the gigantic piles of seasonal produce. There are generally at least three varieties of exotic wild mushrooms offered, which are seared to order and plated with a simple, silky egg yolk. Peppers, asparagus, artichokes: whatever the season has to offer takes up almost half the bar, and the spot’s pintxos are elegant classics designed to let the raw product shine.
Contact: ganbarajatetxea.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible for bar; recommended for restaurants
La Vina
With its retro pintxos still touting innovation awards from more than two decades ago, La Viña could easily be written off if it weren’t for one thing: the cheesecake. Dozens of them are made and sold every day, and once they’re gone, they’re gone. Order a slice of this ethereal tarta de queso, which has gone viral everywhere from Asia to the United States, and enjoy it with a dark glass of sweet sherry from Pedro Ximenez for the perfect ending to an evening of pintxos.
Contact: lavinarestaurante.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible for bar; recommended for restaurants
Txepetxa
Txepetxa is an old-fashioned place, with walls covered in photos of famous guests and ceramic replicas of the famous anchovy toast on the bar. The basis of the menu is a daily selection of the freshest anchovies on the market, marinated according to a secret family recipe from second-generation chef and owner Manu. Try the silvery fillets on freshly toasted bread, topped with signature blends from spider crab cream to the vinegar-onion and pepper jardinera.
Contact: bartxepetxa.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
Centre
Antonio Bar
Antonio Bar’s nondescript facade and small dimensions belie one of the best pintxo bars in the city. The gregarious owners Humberto and Ramón personally greet both new and old customers from behind the bar, half of which is weighted down by a selection of house-made anchovies, salmon, salt beef and sardines, in casseroles filled with olive oil. Placed on freshly toasted bread and served with unique garnishes, they are Antonio’s signature. Be sure to order whatever fresh produce is on display, such as the porcini mushrooms (served with egg yolk and foie) or green guindilla peppers (served fried and sprinkled with salt).
Contact: antoniobar.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible for bar; recommended for restaurants
La Espiga
If you only have time for one pintxo in San Sebastián, make it delicacy. This simple bite, from one of the city’s oldest pintxo bars, defies the general rule that pintxos on the bar aren’t worth stomach space. A thin slice of bread with two thin slices of hard-boiled egg, salted anchovies and a finely chopped mixture of onion and garlic on top, finished with a drizzle of Worcestershire sauce – this pintxo also defies the laws of matter, more flavor than seems humanly possible in two small bites.
Contact: 00 34 943 42 14 23
Prices: £
Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 10am-12pm
Reservations: Not possible for bar; recommended for restaurants
Bubble bar
It’s not every day that a new pintxo bar opens in San Sebastián’s Old Town, which is bustling with family-run establishments. Bells Bar is a welcome addition, with a Spanish omelet so sticky and savory it became an instant neighborhood legend. Chef Lancelot has worked in many of the best pintxo bars in the old city, and he combines this experience with his English upbringing and the Colombian culture of his partner Sarah to create a menu of pintxos and small plates, unlike anything else in the pintxo radius. Don’t miss the croquetas de sancocho, fried balls reminiscent of the delicious Latin stew, or the crumpet topped with spider crab a la donostiarra.
Contact: instagram.com/bellsbar_donostia
Prices: £
Reservations: Possible but not essential.
Course
Eguzki Berri
Prices spread off the wall of this hip pintxo bar in the corner of Gros. The space is small and the bar is full of pintxos, rather rudely presented, in coffee cups or half-opened cans. A selection of nearly 20 vermouths (served with a drop of bitters, gin and dried citrus) pairs perfectly with the fried calamari with ink aioli, making this an ideal spot for a weekend pintxo hop.
Contact: 00 34 943 28 30 63
Prices: £
Opening hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm; Sun, 11am – 4pm
Reservations: Not possible
Bodega Donostiarra
Despite its ever-growing popularity, locals still line up for Bodega Donostiarra’s individual Spanish omelettes, tomato-braised meats and cider-braised chorizo. The bustling bar has a beautiful, pintxo-full marble bar top, where the famous banderillas glisten on their toothpicks. The Indurain is the one to try: a large piece of preserved tuna, delicate pickled guindilla chilis, olives and the salted anchovies the region is famous for. Compete for a spot on the terrace and watch the world go by while sipping a glass of sparkling txakoli wine.
Contact: bodegadonostiarra.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Optional