The ski season in Europe has begun as the resorts celebrate massive snowfalls and welcome thousands of visitors to the slopes.
As the chairlifts sprang into action, locals and passionate skiers were among those tasting the first snow of the season at the Alps’ highest ski areas. Holidaymakers will arrive in the mountains in the coming weeks as Christmas approaches and more resorts and slopes open.
Our experts lined up to kickstart winter. Here they share their live reports from the slopes and what skiers and snowboarders can expect when winter arrives.
France
In bustling Val Thorens, the word is that the “best ski resort in the world” has been blessed with “the best season opening conditions in 20 years”.
I felt a rush of anticipation when I arrived at Europe’s highest resort – crowned the best in the world for the eighth time – for La Grande Première, the weekend to officially kick off the winter season.
Heavy snowfall got the festivities in earnest as the first lift of the 2023/24 season brought giddy skiers and snowboarders up the mountain. I was one of 10,385 who got what looked like the golden lift ticket for the first official day of skiing on Saturday, with some leaving their cars on the side of the road because the parking lots were full.
My opening morning guide, Stephane, stated that it has been at least twenty years since he has experienced such season-opening conditions – a stark contrast to last year, when La Grande Première was postponed due to a lack of snow.
60 percent of the lifts were open and a DJ was playing music under a clear blue sky – the atmosphere was one of a party on Sunday, with a test village giving thrill seekers the chance to try out new skis and snowboards.
Vincent Lalanne, director of the Val Thorens Tourist Office, said: “The conditions we have mean that our season is guaranteed. We even had to call the regional government to clear the roads to get here because they didn’t know there was so much snow.”
Snow report
On Sunday there was 1 meter of the white stuff at the top of the mountain, after up to 10 cm of snow had fallen on Saturday, providing fresh powder under my skis. Further heavy snow is forecast for Monday evening and later in the week.
What to look out for at the resort this winter
Take to a new panoramic walkway to a viewpoint and enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of Cime Caron and the adjacent peaks.
Book It
Hotel Marielle (0033 458 24 00 80) has double rooms from £245 including breakfast. easyJet offers flights to Geneva from £115 return.
Pete Thompson
Austria
Anything less than a whiteout would have been a serious disappointment. After two aborted landings in Innsbruck, a diversion to Munich and many hours in a hastily arranged minibus, our trip to Ischgl for the season opener was nothing if not eventful. It’s fair to say that the Tyrol region had some severe weather this weekend, but locals were relieved when they got it.
Ischgl traditionally opens on the last weekend of November. Things have been exciting in 2022, with snow only getting heavier over the past three days. This year – and like much of the Swiss and French Alps – temperatures have been dropping for most of the past month. The tourism board estimated that there were 11,000 skiers at the resort on opening weekend, and although the slopes were busy, it felt more like a happy buzz than a bun fight for the first lift.
With winds of over 40 km per hour the top stations remained closed – we reached the Palinkopf at 2,864 meters and it was easy to understand why: the snow was good, but it was -18°C and we were practically blown back up the mountain at some point. Rarely have I been so grateful for a heated chairlift seat. We found fresh powder and neat corduroy without much difficulty, although everywhere in the shade it was dirty and a bit icy.
The tourist office promises that 100 percent of the slopes will be open from December 15; the snow is already there and until then they are maintaining the slopes.
Snow report
Rain showers in mid-November washed away some of the early season snow, but conditions have since improved. On November 25, there was 6 inches of fresh powder on top of a 5-foot base and an overnight storm added another 12-18 inches. More snow is forecast this week and sunshine is expected for the week beginning December 3.
What to look out for at the resort this winter
Recharge tired limbs at the Silvretta Spa – a £65 million wellness center with indoor and outdoor pools and an adults-only bath and sauna complex. Day passes cost £63 and are a relaxing alternative to the otherwise raucous nightlife.
Book It
The four-star Zalwonder (0043 5444 5191) has double rooms from £173 including breakfast. easyJet operators fly to Innsbruck from £44 return.
Matt Hampton
Switzerland
“It’s the best snow we’ve seen in November in years.” “It’s epic, sick.” “It’s winter now, so the snow should stick…” This weekend’s excited chatter in the Les Ruinettes gondola nicely summed up my first ski experience of the season. Verbier doesn’t officially open for another fortnight, but the resort’s pre-opening was buzzing with ski fever.
“I’m looking forward to getting started on a good, healthy snow base,” Verbier mountain guide Cherries von Maur told me. “Everyone is energetic because it snowed so early!” Sure enough, the only accommodation to be found all weekend was down the mountain at Mont-Fort Swiss Lodge in Le Châble, where 17 great-value rooms in the valley cable car station will essentially get you out of bed rolls into the elevator.
After the swooshing Saturday, Verbier’s après-ski icon Pub Mont Fort was packed and a huge heated dome on the mountain pulsed with 2,500 electronic music fans on the closing night of the Polaris Festival.
For the 15,000 skiers in Verbier for the pre-opening, Sunday was a dazzling bluebird day, with knee-deep powder snow bordering groomed pistes around Lac des Vaux and Attelas-Ruinettes (the two sectors open). In the afternoon, the atmosphere in the sun-drenched Icebox bar, with paragliders soaring over the pink vistas of the Massif des Combins, was a snowy heaven on earth.
Snow report
Conditions are unprecedented for November. On Saturday it snowed all day and much of the night, resulting in a snow depth of 37 cm on the peaks and 8 cm in the village of Verbier. Heavy snow – another 35cm – and persistent negative temperatures are forecast this week.
What to look out for at the resort this winter
Arriving in Verbier by train has never been more à la mode (the Verbier Express connects Geneva airport to Le Châble in just over two hours) and the cable car to Verbier runs longer hours (5.15am to 11.50pm) to provide more people to encourage skiers who come by public transport.
Book It
Hôtel de Verbier (00 41 27 564 40 00) has double rooms from £251 including breakfast. SWISS operates flights to Geneva from £91 return.
Nicola Williams
And the rest
Our snow forecaster Patrick Thorne shares the latest conditions from the rest of Europe.
Italy
Italian ski resorts experienced heavy snowfall in the first half of November, with Livigno opening early after more than 1 meter fell there. The weather has warmed up for a while, but lately it has been colder and snowier and more areas are now open to some of the terrain. These include Cervinia, Cortina and San Martino, most of which are only open for a few kilometers so far. Madonna di Campiglio has the most ski area available, with 20 km. Temperatures will be cold (-10ºC to 5ºC) in the coming days, with snowfall again later this week.
Scandinavia
Scandinavian ski resorts report great November conditions. Most major resorts such as Sweden’s Åre and Sälen and Norway’s Hemsedal and Trysil are already open and have reported up to 40 cm of fresh snow in recent days. Dress warmly, though, as Finland’s Ruka and Levi have been posting -25ºC in the mornings lately. Skiing is usually done under artificial lighting, as daylight hours are rapidly decreasing, but there is more time to see the aurora.
Eastern Europe
We are still a week or two away from the opening of Eastern Europe’s main ski resorts, but there have already been promising snowfalls. Slovakia’s largest resort, Jasna, reports that there is already 10-30cm on higher slopes, sub-zero temperatures and more snow in the forecast before the season starts on Saturday. Bulgarian ski resorts have reported several pre-season snowfalls and this past weekend saw consistent freezing temperatures and more snowfall. This is forecast to clear by mid-week, but temperatures will remain low.
Andorra
The ski season starts next weekend in Andorra. Temperatures have dropped and up to 35cm of snow fell last week, improving conditions significantly. The staff at Grandvalira, which now runs all the main ski areas including Arinsal, Soldeu and Pas de la Casa, filmed themselves making pre-season turns in the fresh powder to build up the excitement. Elsewhere in the Pyrenees, Spain’s Baqueira Beret has already opened, with 25km of slopes initially available. Temperatures will range between -9ºC and 9ºC with snow showers this week.