Slap your fellas and get out the rodeo gear: London is in for a hot cowboy summer.
Anyone who’s hesitant should discuss it with Beyoncé, whose country-inspired album Cowboy Carter drops tomorrow. The March 19 release of the album cover cemented her new look: on horseback, wearing a red, white and blue ensemble with Paris Texas boots and a cowboy hat. It has spawned an unlikely Western-style revival, tailored to the sound of her hit Texas Hold ‘Em.
There was a moment in London – it was during the early summer months last year between Harry Styles’ week-long stint selling out Wembley Stadium and the release of the Barbie movie – when we reached peak nouveau western and the sight of yet another neon pink , feathered Cowboy hat shipped from China caused involuntary gagging.
All the fantastic Clint Eastwood touches – triple denims, fringed chaps, bolo ties and vintage cowboy boots (in regular colours, not green or red snake print or, heaven help us, metallic silver) – had come down to one bachelorette bell, and we thought, I’ll eat my hat if anything Texas-contiguous makes a comeback for at least a few years.
And yet, in recent weeks, all things country-related have returned, all over the world. In an extraordinary show of support for the craze, Bella Hadid has linked up with a cowboy, Mexican-American horse trainer Adan Banuelos, and was pictured cheering him on at the American Performance Horseman show in Texas. TMZ reported that she has bought a house in Fort Worth as sources said she has “now gone full cowgirl.” Rihanna is currently on the cover of Vogue China in the look, cowboy singer Orville Peck is only growing in fame, and in Paris Pharrell Williams showed off a 76 look, spaghetti western spectacular for his fall-winter 2024 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton.
The musician turned creative director talked about reclaiming the aesthetic. One in four cowboys was black, but the representation has been whitewashed. “When you see cowboys depicted… you never really see what some of the original cowboys really look like,” he said. “They look like me, they look black, they look Native American.” Borrowing these urban cowboy looks — all silk shirts and studded black leather Vuitton hats — has become a rite of passage for the A-list. Beyoncé wore the finale look to the Grammys, and Colman Domingo paired the brand’s tuxedo flares and cowboy boots to the Oscars.
Because of all these messages of support (plus 11.4 million views of “Cowboycore” on TikTok), demand has skyrocketed. Since news of the Cowboy Carter album dropped, John Lewis reported a 62 percent increase in searches for cowboy boots, while Clearpay saw sales of cowboy hats increase by 326 percent year-on-year, and sales of fringed suede jackets by 45 per cent. Gen Z is scouring Depop for similar ads, with searches for fringe searches up 58 percent since the start of the month.
In London, those catering to the once niche market are now overwhelmed. There’s Jessie Western, in Portobello Road, outfitting Kate Moss in bespoke suits and Lana Del Rey in hand-painted boots, while Hey Cowboy! of Brick Lane, a mecca of bandanas, chaps and suede outfit accessories, is doing a strong trade. “Western is having a moment right now,” says founder Ed, who launched Hey Cowboy! as a stall in 2021 before opening its physical post in May last year.
“It’s a whole world of style, from conservative to camp and everything in between, and room for everyone. It’s timeless because it’s rooted in practical origins – but unlike the plain, characterless workwear we’re all so familiar with, it has style and flair. It’s not afraid to be sexy,” he says. The store owner’s style guide reads as follows: “Keep it simple: cowboy boots, jeans, T-shirt, trucker hat; or boots and a dress. Mix western elements into your outfits. One or two items are enough to give a strong western feel. “For the rest, follow the materials: denim, leather, suede, wool, cotton. These give your fit a western kick without looking flashy, avoiding extremes of oversized or skinny. Western clothes look best when they fit well.”
Other outlets based here have had success selling Western goods online. Vintage Cowboy Store is one of them and according to founder Marina Dudzik, turnover has tripled compared to last year. “I called my January newsletter ‘The Year of the Cowboy’ and it is exactly that!,” she says. “The style is tied to a history and a culture, so once you get into it you’re probably a Dolly Parton fan and you know the names of [designer] Nudie Cohn and [early western film actor] Tom Mix,” she says. “Something Mix said that resonates with me is, ‘The Old West isn’t a particular place in a particular time, it’s a state of mind. It’s whatever you want. ”
She suggests avoiding luxury copycats and sticking to heritage. “I would definitely invest in quality brands from the US – look for labels like Stetson [who have a Soho outlet], H Bar C, Rockmount Ranchwear, Panhandle and of course Wrangler,” she says. Also keep your eyes open for archive finds. “I’m obsessed with the creations of Californian tailors: Nudie Cohn, Nathan Turk and Rodeo Ben. These were all Eastern European immigrants who came to America with their vision and transformed the style, eventually dressing people like Elvis Presley, John Wayne, Gene Autry or Roy Rogers,” she says.
A long-time purveyor of the style in the capital is Luke Day, the former fashion director of GQ Magazine, most recognizable for his enormous cowboy hat in street style photos during international fashion weeks. “I even have the word cowboy tattooed on my chest,” he says. “The obvious way to mix some western into your look is with a hat; it doesn’t have to be a full fancy dress costume. It looks great with a jacket and normal clothes.” His other suggestions include tying a small neckerchief, or tucking it in your back pocket, and adding turquoise bolo ties to a flannel shirt.
You shouldn’t have a problem finding all the ingredients. Even M&S is introducing a triple denim look for its spring collection, and Whistles has a tasseled suede jacket that’s the spitting image of Jon Voight in Midnight Cowboy. And like Voight’s Joe Buck, who roamed the New York ranch in the 1969 film, the latest look is completely urban-focused. You don’t have to be able to climb on a horse; Driving over the Overground with tracks is fine.
Dizzy! And look…
Whistles Lani suede jacket with tassels, olive green, £339, johnlewis.com
Ralph Lauren, braided leather bolo tie, £250, ralphlauren.co.uk
Maison Margiela, Printed cotton jersey T-shirt, £450, mytheresa.com
501 Levi’s Original Jeans, £100, levi.com
Mango, oversized checked shirt, £45.99, johnlewis.com
Ruslan Baginskiy Crystal-embellished cowboy hat, £1,700, ruslanbaginskiy.com
Paris Texas, El Dorado cowboy boots, £900, paristexasbrand.com
Twojeys, Cowboy Ring, £53, twojeys.com
Stetson, Ranson Western Ventilated Toyo Straw Hat, £149, stetson.eu
Penelope Chilvers, Goldie Embroidered Cowboy Boots, £329, penelopechilvers.com