‘A flower blooms for its own joy’ was one of Oscar Wilde’s poetic turns of phrase. And that also applies to your wardrobe. It’s been a dreary old spring, so it feels appropriate to put a little spice into our style choices now that there’s a faint patch of blue sky on the horizon.
Seasonal clothing is no more, thanks to a general relaxation of the rules and our increasingly volatile climate. Where once there was a great sense of ceremony when packing bulky knitwear (vacuum bags for some, although the freezer is also a moth-proof tip) and clumping footwear, today we are less bound by sartorial customs.
Winter is a time when menswear comes to life: the shape and fit of a serious, straight suit, the substance of a masterful coat. In the lighter months we can drift a bit; the sense of decency that comes with a well-tailored jacket doesn’t necessarily extend to warmer days. That said, there are some great examples of how to get the right spring clothes. Look to Italian noir god Marcello Mastroianni for a masterclass in Sprezzatura – you imagine him forever sipping an espresso in the Piazza Navona, dressed in a crisp white linen suit.
The British reality is often more down-to-earth: ill-fitting polo shirts, slogan T-shirts, cargo shorts and shoes with unspeakable feet. There is no clear guide to spring because the weather is still transient; warmer temperatures but mottled skies, pints in the open air, but mind the mud patch. So how to negotiate all this?
Your new coat
Blame fashion magazines and the marketing agencies on e-tail websites for this cute nickname: the shacket. Simply a cheerful hybrid between a shirt and a jacket, taking the shape of the first, but in more substantial materials such as heavy flannel or cord. Elsewhere, blousons are also a spring must: they’re airy and sleek, with a rich history in military clothing, meaning they’re built for ease and dynamism.
Lightweight bomber jacket, £230, Ghent; Colin’s corduroy overshirt, £68, trip
The spring suit
Non-traditional colored suits can be tricky to navigate, but it doesn’t have to be a full-on fuchsia attack (although we’ll tip a hat to the gentleman who wants to go there). Gloomy navy and black tones can sometimes feel out of step with the season’s magnolia buds and blue skies, so it’s worth looking at a suit in a subtle shade; a light blue, sage or stone can add a modern touch.
Another adjustment to your sizing is to opt for a half-canvas jacket, which has no lining on the back panel except for the shoulders, so is lighter and more breathable.
Green regular fit suit jacket, £74, Next one; Fintry Blazer, £195, Wash London
It’s in the details
The point isn’t spring-specific, but there are certain touches a man can add to his basic wardrobe that offer difference and personality (and an overall sense of joy in dressing). Colored socks are an example (without a pattern: that’s flashy-uncle-with-Christmas territory), as is a lightweight scarf. If you’re feeling particularly naughty, a smart hat always makes a statement; an immaculate panama or trilby provides a friendly appearance that is all too often missing from the way men dress today.
Sunglasses are often an impulse buy at the airport – there’s nothing wrong with that – but unless you’re particularly keen on something that makes a statement, tortoiseshell or standard black are the mainstays. Stay away from rimless variants or the overly sporty options; wraparounds may look great on Princess Anne, but the rest of us should use them for outdoor activities instead of wearing them with our pretty spring clothes.
Original Wayfarer Classic Sunglasses, £164 Ray Ban; Drake’s Red Cotton Silk Floral Scarf, £139.99, Huntington House
Step up your shirts
Adjusting the standard shirt formula of ‘long sleeves, neutral color’ can be instantly rejuvenating. You may want to consider a grandpa collar rather than the run-of-the-mill variety – and it’s worth considering the collar too
dust. A flannel or denim shirt can serve as a cover-up for spring’s temperamental weather. The latter also fits in nicely with the current fashion for everything that has to do with cowboy Americana.
Of course, the floral shirt in its myriad guises is an indication that milder months are ahead. Your best ‘in’ here is a more muted kind of floral – think abstract digital prints or micro blossoms. Otherwise these can read a bit like ‘dad on holiday’. Leave the full, glorious botanicals and hibiscus fringe for your summer vacation.
Sunspel x Katie Scott notched collar shirt, £195, Harrods; Officine Générale Gaston cotton seersucker shirt with grandpa collar, £195, Mr. Porter
On chinos and shorts
Spring calls for cheerful colors, and chinos are usually its happy home. Red chinos are controversial (a Fulham bar once banned them) and bold colors aren’t necessarily wearable in all situations, but preppy options exude a certain collegiate charm. Check out brown, light blue and even pink variants, or ones with preppy-coded embroidered emblems – Ralph Lauren’s feature playful flags and tennis rackets.
As for shorts, wait until summer. Even then it is wise to be cautious in the way you wear them. Not to the office, nor to formal events, outside of a real heat wave. And choose tailor-made, smart variants that cut to just above the knee; longer, wider versions look a bit studentish.
Embroidered Slim Fit Chinos, £169, Ralph Lauren; Ecru camel shorts, £17.95, Moss
Spring shoes decoded
The search for lighter and less formal footwear can lead to missteps; my particular bugbears are “performance sports tech” sandal-trainer hybrids that are so stuck in the crust they’re on the verge of sentience, or creaking leather loafers with that painful, elongated upper. As with all things men’s style, it’s best to take a lesson from our Italian brothers: choose smart riding shoes like the ones from Marche shoe giant Tod’s that perform better than anyone else. Alternatively, less formal suede loafers and boat shoes can be your spring men in the shoe department. Boat shoes originated in the preppy environment of America’s East Coast and look pleasantly Ivy League on spring days.
And now to sandals, a touchy subject. Some adhere to the rule that they are for holiday wear only. That seems like a shame, because sandals have become a lot ‘fancy’ in recent years and can look appropriate in the right arrangement. A closed toe is generally easier to wear, in nice leather rather than something woven or raffia – leave that to your son during his gap year. Of course, never wear them in a formal environment or in a work environment, and it is always advisable to carefully assess how presentable your feet are; keep them neat and tidy with a pedicure set or reserve one from a barber shop that handles such things.
Gommino riding shoes, £510, Tod’s; Leather Fisherman Sandals, £49, John Lewis