There’s nothing like a little snow and ice to add a little danger to your morning walk with the dog. My own inelegant, anxious staggering in the mud is bad enough when I’m alone, so adding my small but feisty and often overzealous Manchester terrier, Arty, to the mix would only be disastrous if we spent a few days in Morzine, just before the opening of the ski area in early December.
Granted, I’m not much of a skier – I spent a traumatic week doing it when I was 11 and vowed never to do it again – but drawn by the lure of the Alps in winter, I headed to France’s Haute-Chet strolled. Savoie in the car with Arty to find out whether a nice winter holiday with dog in tow is really possible.
Nor am I the only one taking on this honorable undertaking. Luxury ski agent Leo Trippi has reported a 37 percent increase in inquiries for dog-friendly chalets, and the company says accommodation for dog owners is increasing. In Switzerland, the Laax resort saw a 104 percent increase in the number of dogs hitting the slopes with their humans in 2022 (352 bookings in total) compared to 2019, and in the first half of the 2023 winter season there were almost 300 pets. friendly bookings.
Before embarking on any major explorations in the snow, I met Gail Heatley-Ducrettet, a local physio-turned-dog trainer who gave us the lowdown on how to avoid accidents in the snow. Armed with the tools to keep from falling over (try a slip leash placed directly under the chin, rather than around the neck, which would strangle the dog, and make sure the dog walks behind you rather than in front of you), we ventured into the village.
The bars and pubs (most are dog-friendly, but the best is Bec Jaune Brewery for its home-brewed beers and delicious curries) were buzzing with enthusiastic ski instructors and chalet workers preparing for the start of the season. And even after a pint of Bec Jaune’s bitter, I managed to walk the dog back to the warm embrace of my bougie Alikats chalet without a nasty fall.
The next morning, with my feet fitted with a pair of pretty pink snowshoes, I felt even more confident as I took the dog for a walk in the white stuff. Viv Day of DaysAway Adventures and her border collie Gaia took us romping up and down the powdery hills around the Vallee de la Manche. The shoes not only distribute your weight in the snow, but are also equipped with spikes on the bottom for extra grip.
“Every winter we see more and more dogs coming to Morzine with their owners,” Viv told me. They are attracted by the freedom to reign freely in most chalets, restaurants, pubs and bars, as well as on the ski lifts. If you get up the mountain early enough, you can walk the dog on the slopes before the skiers descend.
Not entirely convinced about walks on the slopes, we opted for some safer walks around the Parc des Dérêches in Morzine, where locals let their dogs run free along the river. Later in the week we drove east to Switzerland’s Jungfrau region, which seemed even more dog-friendly than France. We walked through a beautiful forest in the Grindelwald valley, took the gondola to the Eiger Glacier and hopped on the train to the highest train station in Europe – where the dog was all welcomed without a second glance (except the other tourists, whose heads turned as he trotted along the crunchy, snow-covered paths).
Despite my aversion to skiing, I still found plenty to keep us entertained during our winter adventure in the mountains. Add to that the fact that I stayed upright for the most part, and I’d say it was a resounding success. Maybe next time I’ll even try skiing.
Five of the best ski resorts for dog owners
Morzine, France
Driving time from Calais: 8.5 hours
This village in the Haute-Savoie region is well located for dog-friendly excursions such as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Dogs are not allowed on the slopes, but you can walk them on the slopes before the skiers start. Stay at the self-catering Chalet Harmonie, where a week costs from £5,412 in total, for up to 12 people with one dog, departing on March 23, 2024. Dogs can also be left in chalets while you ski.
Grindelwald, Switzerland
Driving time from Calais: 9 hours
Situated in a vast valley with the 3,700-metre-high Mittelhorn and the almost 4,000-metre-high Eiger, Grindelwald is a charming town in Switzerland’s Jungfrau region. The local trains and gondolas are all dog friendly. Dogs are allowed on the sledding slopes (look for the purple signs), but if you want to ski, local dog walking service Dogness will look after your animal while you’re away. Stay at Bergwelt Grindelwald Alpine Resort, where dogs get a bed and food bowls in the room and can have breakfast with them. A double room costs from £240 per night, including breakfast, plus £32 per night for one dog.
Saint Moritz, Switzerland
Driving time from Calais: 10.5 hours
Swish St Moritz is a fixture on the winter holiday scene in Switzerland. From here there are numerous pistes for skiers and dogs are generally allowed on the slopes, although most prefer not to bring their pets along for the downhill thrills (you can walk them next to the slopes). Safer adventures include hiking, snowshoeing or cross-country skiing, and dog-friendly trails can be found in the nearby Engadine. Stay at the newly opened Grace La Margna St Moritz, where dogs get their own welcome pack including bowls and a bed, and they can join you for breakfast. Prices from £999 per night, plus £50 per night for the dog.
Val d’Isere, France
Driving time from Calais: 10 hours
Val d’Isère is a serious skiing paradise: here you can tackle the Face de Bellevarde, a notorious black piste with a gradient of up to 71 percent. Of course, there are also beginner-friendly slopes, although dogs must be kept off the slopes during skiing hours. However, there are snowshoeing and hiking opportunities for dogs, and most bars and restaurants are dog-friendly. Stay at Chalet Grand Choucas on a chalet board basis, from £1,190 per person for seven nights with Ski Solutions.
Flaine, France
Driving time from Calais: 8.5 hours
Come here for views of Mont Blanc (reached via a dog-friendly gondola) and Picasso sculptures, as well as fantastic cross-country skiing. There are no dogs on the slopes, but snowshoeing activities here are dog-friendly. Stay at Les Terrasses d’Hélios, where you can hop on and off from the self-catering apartments. A seven-night stay costs from £1,091 for a one-bedroom apartment (sleeps up to four people and one dog) with Pierre & Vacances, departing on February 3, 2024.
Must know
How do I get to the ski areas with my dog?
Public transport can be a tricky journey if you’re traveling with a dog and all your ski gear, even if you don’t have your own equipment. It’s probably best to drive into the mountains (don’t forget your winter tyres, snow socks or chains) and there are several ways to get from Britain to France and beyond in your car.
The most efficient is always LeShuttle – a 35-minute crossing from Folkestone – and there’s even a dog-friendly Holiday Inn Express right next door, should you need a stopover before catching an early train. Other options include ferries with DFDS, StenaLine or Brittany Ferries crossings from various ports in Great Britain.
Driving time to the mountains can vary from seven to 12 hours, so don’t do it all in one day – I use the very basic Premiere Classe hotels for pit stops as they are almost all dog friendly and prices start from £30 per night, including breakfast.
Read our ultimate guide to driving to the Alps here.
What should I bring for my dog?
In addition to the usual supplies (lead, poop bags and food), bring plenty of towels to wipe wet feet, as well as a collapsible water bowl to take with you on walks. Dogs don’t need to wear thermal boots if you’re going for the occasional walk, but if you plan to spend all day in the snow, consider a pair of Ruffwear dog boots to protect their paws.
Can I take my dog on the slopes?
Rules around dogs on the ski slopes vary from region to region, so it’s always best to check with the local tourist information centre. While it is possible to ski with your dog in some areas, it is generally not recommended. They can easily cause an accident, and skis are sharp around the edges and can seriously damage a dog’s paws or paws if they get in the way.
If I can take my dog skiing, what is the advice?
Practice in short bursts at first, ideally away from crowds, so you can gauge whether your dog is comfortable following you down the slopes. It’s never a good idea to use a leash – they get tangled and that can cause serious harm to your dog – so only ski with your pet if he has an excellent memory and knows an emergency stop command. It’s best to ski with your dog out of peak season, so avoid school holidays and make sure you get there before the lifts open so you have more space. The gentler descents are better for dogs to avoid stressing their joints.
What insurance do I need?
Your own travel insurance should include winter sports cover before you head out on an adventure. Insurance isn’t necessary for your dog, but if he needs vet treatment or if he causes an accident, it could be an expensive vacation. Check whether your pet insurer offers travel cover, and consider pet travel insurance for your trip.
What certification do I need for my dog?
Your dog will need an EU pet passport (no longer issued in Britain, but available in Ireland) or an animal health certificate. They will also need deworming treatment given by a vet no more than 120 hours and no less than 24 hours before your return to Britain.
Can I leave the dog alone when I go skiing?
This very much depends on the rules of your accommodation provider, so it is always best to ask. If you decide to leave the dog alone in your hotel or chalet, make sure he has plenty of water.