The regional nature of food can be complicated; many dishes evolve across cultural and political boundaries. However, as a source of national pride, enthusiastic chefs try to claim a rendition as their own. Recently, borscht, the comforting beet soup, has been in the spotlight as an example of culinary excitement. With the Russian invasion, Ukraine collected documentation of the dish’s domestic severity and was approved for inclusion on a UNESCO list of endangered traditions.
And while the food undeniably has deep roots in the Eastern European country, it is also a popular dish in many other countries. From the Baltic States to Poland, Russia, Romania and even eastwards to the Caucasus and Asia, the dish takes on a dizzying variety of forms – estimated at over a hundred. Using a malleable base of root vegetables, often meat, and hearty broth, borscht is a comforting homemade creation for many people. Let’s take a look at some of the most notable performances.
Read more: 20 Popular Canned Soups, Ranked from Worst to Best
Ukrainian borscht offers a thick version of the soup with sour components
With such an assortment of variations, it’s no surprise that even Ukrainian borscht takes different forms. In general, it is divided into three types: the classic bright red variant with beets, a herbal green spring version and a cold version reminiscent of chłodnik.
Most renditions of the dish employ classic Ukrainian techniques, such as using smazhennia, a fried base of chopped carrots and onions. In addition, it often contains kvashennia, or vegetable ferments, which gives it an acidic character. When it comes to the meat base, slow-braised oxtail is a popular choice, which adds a rich, meaty character. However, some believe that pork ribs are the most traditional meat base.
Ukrainian borscht is thicker than other varieties, and its dense texture contains a bouquet of delicious ingredients. Common borscht additions such as potatoes, cabbage and beetroot are often present. Farmers enhance the whole even further by also incorporating regional, locally produced products. Whether it’s kidney beans, green onions or eel, the Ukrainian version is an emblematic expression of the seasonal nature of the dish.
Russian borscht is typically a liquidier, heartier stew
Because the largest Slavic nation has assimilated a large number of borscht versions from neighboring cultures, it is complicated to disentangle what specifically constitutes Russian borscht. The expression of the nation is linked to the common base of beetroot, cabbage and potatoes, all stewed into a beef base. However, there are plenty of deviations and the composition is not stringent.
The stock starter is often mixed, whether with salted sausage, poultry or vegetables. Structurally, Russian borscht often tends towards a thinner consistency, unlike the Ukrainian version. Vegetables, such as cabbage, are added at the beginning of cooking, which gives a softer result than the Ukrainian version. The iconic deep red color is often accentuated by the addition of tomatoes, although such a technique is more modern.
Finally, Russian borscht is characterized by the carby accompaniment: several slices of black rye bread. These delicious side dishes – used to sop up the broth – are perhaps the most standard element of the national version of borscht.
Polish Barszcz is a soup-like creation with different ingredients
In Poland the dish has a unique name: barszcz. Just like in other Slavic countries, almost every chef has his own twist on the dish. Most notably, the Poles make a delicious chilled version with beetroot and yogurt, which is developed enough to be known plainly as chlodnik.
In addition, the country is preparing a white version, in which pork broth is combined with soured wheat flour; beets are missing in this version. Meanwhile, the country’s twist on red repenzcz often uses fermented beets to enhance the sour notes, as in Ukrainian renditions.
Polish barszcz offers a clearer, vegetarian broth, unlike other neighboring meat-heavy versions. Dried mushrooms are often added, giving it an extra savory taste. And even when beef is used, the lighter texture of barszcz is aided by a pressing step. Such a technique gives the dish a more soup-like quality. When it comes to the topping, small mushroom- or sauerkraut-filled dumplings called uszka are usually spooned into the soup.
Performances of Borscht outside Eastern Europe
The ever-changing stew has even more variations outside the Eastern European region. Since the dish was considered an iconic Soviet dish, it spread to most areas formerly under the Soviet Union
In the Caucasus, for example, the dish integrates regional ingredients such as fresh herbs and spicy peppers. And while beef is the most common base in this region, some add local variation by using lamb. Otherwise, this borscht sticks to a faithful vegetable base of cabbage, beets, potatoes and other root vegetables. Perhaps through the Armenian diaspora, the soup also spread to Iran, where the dish relies on a similar collection of ingredients, but with local cuts of meat.
And the mixing between Russia and China even spread the dish all the way to Hong Kong. This version, called luo song tang, is made with a few local inflections, such as ginger and ketchup, and does not use beets. Because the vegetable is not popular in the region, a combination of tomato products are used to mimic the red color. So needless to say, the extensive range of regional styles of borscht is impressive, and it is impossible to determine which is the most emblematic.
Read the original article on Tasting table.