I cycled into the birdsong, into the colour, the light glistening against the white of the low stone walls. There was a spaciousness as I cycled, a laterally expansive soundscape, big skies and birdsong. I didn’t meet anyone else on the narrow streets and had the feeling of being completely alone on an island of 2,000 people. Is there anything more fun than riding your bike early in the morning, heading towards the sea?
The Aegadian archipelago off the northwest coast of Sicily is a well-kept secret. Italians come here on holiday, but the islands are relatively unknown to international tourists. And an even better kept secret is that these magical islands inspired the fantastic lands of the Odyssey, Europe’s oldest travelogue. There are five islands in total and it is possible to visit three of them.
I had come to Favignana, the Odyssey’s ‘island of wonders’ according to one theory, as part of my search for the real-life places that inspired the Odysseus’s epic journey for my new book. As soon as I set foot here, I fell in love. It is the largest of the islands in the archipelago and is still small: less than 13 square kilometers.
According to one theory, this was the island where Odysseus’ crew stopped before he and a few companions left to meet the Cyclopes. Favignana is supposedly where they rested, hunted goats, barbecued them on the beach and drank “strong red wine” (although I didn’t see a single goat in all the time I spent there).
The first thing I did when I arrived was… bici from the charming Marcello in the GAC rental shop near the harbour. There is no need for a car as the island is so small and largely flat. Favignana has one of Sicily’s most famous beaches, Cala Rossa, and I went looking. It was the site of one of those endless, confusing Punic Wars; in this bay the Greeks were severely outnumbered, but they fought their enemies so bravely that the seas turned red with blood, giving the beach its name. It’s a beautiful bike ride and the rocky beach is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The quarries here have left a legacy and the huge, vertical standing stones look strange and beautiful. And the water is neon turquoise.
There are plenty of other equally beautiful, albeit less iconic, bays to visit. Lido Burrone is the island’s only sandy beach, and the most dramatic is Bue Marino, a former quarry on the east coast where the water is deep and clear beneath rock walls. It is the most notable swimming spot on the island and a great place to watch the sunrise. Cala Azzurra, nearby, is a more classic cove, and just above it is a simple café where owner Dario serves good panini and arancini.
For a small island, Favignana has a very bloodthirsty history. I heard about this in the excellent museum on the harbour. My guide explained that Favignana was the largest spot tonnara (tuna fishing) in the Mediterranean Sea, owned by the mega-rich Florio family (recently the subject of a movie, The Lions of Sicily, on Disney Plus, with many islanders as extras). She showed me around the 19th-century processing plant and explained all the dark innovations – including an elaborate arrangement of seven nets that took a month to set up underwater, and sinister long, wooden harpoons that were viciously effective. She told me that fish was canned here in astonishing numbers.
The factory closed in 1982 and fortunately there are now very strict quotas for bluefin tuna, but evidence of the tuna fishing heritage can be seen all over the town in plaques and photographs, and in the ruins of the old boathouse buildings across the water.
After all that history I grabbed a coffee from Maria in the Kiosko, a simple hut on the beach of Praia, near the factory. It also serves wine and beer, which you can enjoy on a sun lounger overlooking the sea. I sat here for a while and read more about the geography of the Odyssey. There are many conflicting theories: some people think that Sicily was the island of the sun god, and Samuel Butler, a Victorian novelist, believed that Marettimo, the most remote island in the Aegadian archipelago, could be Ithaca, the home island of Odysseus. which he desperately tried to return to.
The very best thing you can do here is channel the Italians and find dolce far niente, the sweetness of doing nothing
The next day I went for breakfast to Caffè Aegusa in the village, next to the yellow church, and watched Italians guzzle huge amounts of water. brioche with gelato with their espressos. Ice cream for breakfast, then you know you’re on holiday.
This island is much more laid-back and shabby than places like Capri, although Camparia, a chic new beach bar offering elegant cocktails and sunset views, is trying to take the atmosphere to the next level. Bar New Albatros in the center of the village is more relaxed, with strong drinks, chilled atmosphere and an excellent playlist. For dinner there are countless options, from simple fried fish or spicy tuna kebab at Pescheria Florio to more refined dining at Sotto Sale. La Bettola became a favorite for its delicious seafood spaghetti and friendly service. Lorenzo, the owner’s son, gets up at 4am every day to catch fish and calamari for the kitchen.
The island is about 30 minutes by hydrofoil from the coast of Sicily (book tickets in advance in high season, including your return). It can be done on a day trip from Trapani. But for me, Favignana is not a place to rush. To appreciate its wonders, slow down and spend some time here.
I stayed in Casa Giorgia, in a quiet street in the village. There is a wide range of hotels and guesthouses here and around the coast. Make sure you book well in advance in the summer. I befriended the local fisherman Silvano “Lo Squalo” (the shark) and went with him to eat the fish he caught that day and shoot the wind (even though I don’t speak Italian and he doesn’t speak English) . He is great company and also offers rustic accommodation in his simple homestay in the countryside.
Every now and then I would rouse myself to take a day trip – to Marettimo for hiking and birdwatching, and to Levanzo to look at the cave paintings. For more action, book a boat trip with Capitan Sinagra, or go diving in the marine protected area.
But the best thing you can do here is channel and find the Italians il dolce far niente, the sweetness of doing nothing. Favignana is a place to just be in the moment, find out which way the wind is blowing, select a cove on the opposite coast (to minimize the chance of jellyfish stings), have a traditional diamond cuzato (a sandwich filled with tomato, tuna, anchovies, capers and basil) for lunch from Jimmy at the Panificio Costanza and some fig cookies from Rosa at the Antichi Sapori bakery, throw a swimsuit, some water and sunscreen in your bicycle basket and cycle to the beach , and keep an eye out for the peregrine falcons that live high atop Monte Santa Caterina.
To me, Favignana feels much more like Circe’s island, a place of magical enchantments than a place to hunt goats. All geographical theories seemed quite subjective, so why not come up with my own? I lay in the sun and dreamed of Odysseus sailing the dangerous seas, of goddesses turning into birds, of all those childish gods having their tantrums, and sent out a little prayer of thanks to all those old gods for being here in this world. truly mythical island.
Enchanted Islands: Journeys Through Myth and Magic, Love and Loss by Laura Coffey (Summersdale, £16.99) will be released on May 2. To support The Guardian and Observer, order your copy at Guardianbookshop.com.