A summary of 2023 might sound depressingly familiar as that of the year before, punctuated by harrowing conflict abroad, domestic political unrest and a sharp cost-of-living crisis. Déjà-2022?
Despite this, there was plenty to be cheerful about – not least that we saw Matt Hancock eat a few testicles and get shouted at, which, rather than more meaningful repercussions, was somewhat satisfying.
But there’s more. Britain now has two dedicated sites for the regeneration of temperate rainforest, the first beaver in 400 years was born in the capital, the NHS is testing ambitious new treatments for hereditary cancers, and at the time of writing the government of Latvia has become the latest country to legally recognize same-sex partnerships. It seems that despite the best efforts of almost everyone, there was a lot of positive things to say about this year.
As always, New Year’s Eve is a chance to toast the good of the past twelve months, and know that 2024 can be even brighter. After an inconsistent few years, London has been feeling busier than ever lately, with more tourists, more restaurants, more bars and more for the hospitality industry to enjoy. What better way to toast than with a glass of fizz while the sky is on fire?
Sadiq Khan said of the festivities: “Celebrating the New Year in the heart of our capital whilst watching our spectacular fireworks display on the banks of the River Thames is the city’s best ticket. Millions of people around the world will see our capital’s skyline illuminated by an extraordinary display of fireworks that shows that London is for everyone.”
The evening starts on December 31 at 8pm and will be held close to the London Eye; tickets cost £20 and currently the first release is sold out, with a second ticket release planned soon (sign up here for email updates on ticket releases). Since it’s impossible to attend without a ticket, we’ve detailed the places around the city where you can watch the screening if you’re unable to get one. Here’s everything you need to know.
For those with tickets
Only those with tickets purchased from AXS can attend, so don’t go down and expect to pick up a few at a tout as reselling is strictly prohibited. Likewise, tickets cannot be transferred. It starts on December 31st at 8:00 PM and ends on January 1st at half past midnight; however, access to the viewing areas closes at 10:30 PM. You will need to bring the tickets with you and ID may also be required.
Those with tickets can go to one of six viewing areas, indicated by color. These are blue, red, pink, green and white, as well as orange, the accessible viewing area on the Albert Embankment, on the riverbank of St Thomas’ Hospital. From mid-afternoon to early evening these areas become extremely busy and movement between areas is impossible. In short, plan carefully where you go. Additionally, crossing the bridges is possible both before and after the event, so factor this into your plans.
Details of your viewing area are on the ticket, but for more information visit london.gov.uk.
For those without tickets
It is impossible to go to the south bank or any of the viewpoints without a ticket, so don’t try, because the center of the city is busy enough on New Year’s Eve. Instead, since they can’t (yet) charge for looking up at the sky, it’s worth going a little further away (quite literally in some cases) to catch a glimpse of the most important festivities, as well as all the other celebrations that take place in the city.
Remember, despite the oft-repeated rumor to the contrary, travel is not free on New Year’s Eve, so make sure you plan the best way to get home after your night out (the tubes run all night, except on the Waterloo and City Line, and the District Line to Kensington Olympia). Expect a number of tube stops in central London to be exits only and beware that many of the roads will be closed or extremely busy; Ubers will probably start charging through the roof.
For those willing to travel, here are some of the best places to go – don’t forget to pack a jacket and possibly a brolly as the weather is bad more often than not.
Central
Kanonstraat and the east side of Monument both are close to the official ticketed viewing areas, so you get the most views without having to shell out – but expect both to be extremely busy, so get down early. Bridges are a similar story. The best known of these is Tower Bridge, and people are gathering, but the view is mediocre at best. Be much better Southwark Bridge And Millennium Bridgeboth closer and with much better views, but expect them to be crushingly packed. Lambeth Bridge And Vauxhall BridgeHowever, are only a little further away and are perhaps the perfect medium, offering both a little breathing space and a beautiful view. If you are standing on a bridge, remember that you are standing in the wind blowing over icy water, so prepare for both cold and wet. For Lambeth Bridge in particular, thanks to the recent completion of the Nine Elms development, it’s best to camp around 5pm for a prime placement.
It’s also not too late to book for a New Year’s meal in a skyscraper, which often also offers a beautiful view of the fireworks.
north
Parliament Hill and Hampstead Heath
Parliament Hill offers some beautiful views, even if the spectacle is still far away. Still, it’s a beautiful place and there will be plenty of people with their own fireworks, so you’re spoiled for choice. Or wander further to Hampstead Heath, which holds its own as a retreat from the city. Fancy a drink beforehand? The Bull & Last is possible, but is very food-oriented (and has a special NYE menu). The Roebuck is a solid option, as are The Magdala and The Southampton Arms, a fantastic venue. In the other direction, try the Wells, a cracker (and return another evening to eat upstairs in the excellent restaurant).
Nearest tubes: Hampstead tube, Hampstead Heath above ground
Primrose Hill
At 76 meters high, the top of Primrose Hill offers virtually unparalleled views of London, so before the fireworks start, grab a flask and a bottle (or two) of champagne and enjoy London all lit up. Be there early, because it gets very busy. If you’re looking for somewhere to stop beforehand, try the Queens, or try the Princess of Wales, which is also a good idea afterwards as it’s usually open until 4am on New Year’s Day. The park closes at 1am and reopens at 6am.
Nearest tubes: Chalk Farm (although trains don’t run until 9:30pm), Camden, Swiss Cottage
Alexandra Palace
The big hill of Ally Pally is steep, but the spectacular skyline views at the top make the trek worth it. Those who have been on Bonfire Night know that there are also a number of other fireworks displays visible from the top. There are plenty of pubs nearby, including the Great Northern Railway Tavern, the Phoenix Bar and Kitchen (in the park, next to the palace itself) and the Mossy Well, a quintessential Spoons.
Nearest metro: Alexandra Palace
East
Greenwich Park
A kind of double threat; The view from here takes in the entire city skyline, but also much of East London, meaning visitors can view all the exhibitions from there too. It is also just a beautiful park. The Plume of Feathers is close by and the oldest pub in the area; the Kings Arms is your standard Greene King boozer, but it has a beautiful garden if the rain isn’t too much.
Nearest Tube: North Greenwich
south
Hilly fields
It’s a reasonable way out, but Hilly Fields in Brockley is about 53 meters above sea level and offers good views of London, especially the city. The main fireworks may seem far away, but it is also a good place to watch all the other fireworks shows in the city. Make sure you take all the rubbish with you as there is a parkrun early in the morning. For a drink nearby, try The Talbot or The Ladywell Tavern.
Nearest tube: catch the train and head to Ladyfield, Brockley or Crofton Park