The joy was evident on Mladen’s face, even though much of it was obscured by an ice-covered snood and helmet, as he pulled down the perspex chairlift, shielding us from the horizontal snowfall. “Would you like to try some powder, Mike?” my instructor asked.
A thick layer of snow had fallen on Kiroro overnight, turning the forested hills and mountains of this corner of Hokkaido into a winter wonderland. A yard of the white stuff would pile up in just 24 hours, and it was only mid-December. Due to its proximity to the Sea of Japan, Kiroro has an average of 21 meters of snow at the top of 1,180 meters. That is more than seven times the average in much of the French Alps.
Japan’s northern island is heaven on earth for skiers craving untamed powder conditions. And it could certainly also claim to be the friendliest place in the world for skiing. Where else is it common for ski lift attendants – often a surly bunch – to greet you with a big smile and hello (“konnichiwa”) when you board, and thank you (“arigato gozaimasu”) when you disembark.
The previous day, under Mladen’s expert guidance, the snow conditions proved perfect for learning long carving turns at speed and short Bunny Hop-style turns on steeper sections across the resort’s 23 pistes. Today was a wild day in comparison. I struggled to maintain control of my skis in the thick powder that would give way to smoother sections before I had to switch again. Progress was much slower as we had to contend with temperatures of -15 degrees Celsius and horizontal snowfall. Despite the not-infrequent face-planting, I had a blast.
As we took our final chairlift ride back to the Club Med Kiroro Grand, Mladen nearly stabbed another skier in the face with his pole while trying to give us one last instruction on how to turn. His boundless enthusiasm was infectious and exactly what I needed to improve my technique.
Within a few minutes I was back at the ski room at the Kiroro Grand, where I locked up my gear before taking a long soak in the hotel onsen. Japan has thousands of traditional hot springs and Club Med Kiroro has its own baths, including open-air ones. There are separate bathing areas for men and women and it is customary not to wear clothing. It’s an incredibly relaxing post-ski ritual that prepared me perfectly for the more traditional – for us Europeans – après-ski in the hotel bar, exchanging stories from the slopes over a beer, mulled wine or a cocktail while watching the snow descend. outside.
The main bar, lounge and entertainment area are the beating heart of the Kiroro Grand. During the day it’s the perfect place to stretch your legs on the couch with a good book during a break from skiing. In the evenings, various shows are performed throughout the week, appealing to all ages – magicians, comedians, singers, DJs, gymnasts, often with Club Med staff – known as ‘genius organisers’ – striving to ensure to make you feel welcome and to make you feel welcome. everything as easy as possible for the guests.
“Easy” is the core of the Club Med offering. Every parent of young children knows how difficult it is to get what everyone really wants from a vacation: rest and relaxation. Club Med aims to ensure that adults can get away with this. Ski lessons are offered for children aged four and up, while the hotel’s kids’ club is essentially a fantastic nursery for children aged two and over, with soft play, games, books and much more to keep children occupied.
When it comes to dining, Kiroro Grand’s expert team of chefs prepares a wide range of options that – for a family-friendly all-inclusive – are of remarkably high quality. Most of your time will be spent at Yoichi, the main buffet restaurant, which offers a mix of Asian and Western meals. The Asian choices range from homemade ramen, sashimi and katsu curry to giant Hokkaido crab and delectable dim sum, while there is a wide choice of salads (the beetroot carpaccio with goat cheese and spring onion is especially delicious) and child-friendly European basic products such as pizza and pasta are also available.
The restaurant is divided into four dining areas, which, together with the wide choice of food, means you’re less likely to feel overly familiar with all-inclusive resorts by the end of the holiday. Your wristband also gives you access to the Asian specialty restaurant The Ogon, which specializes in hotpots, while for an additional charge you can also dine at the sushi restaurants The Kaen yakiniku (grilled meat) and Ebisi.
The Kiroro Grand is aptly named. The 281 rooms are spread over 11 floors and overlook a cavernous atrium. The rooms feature Club Med’s signature interior accents: sofas and carpets in pastel shades, oak panels and beautiful prints. The hotel was originally built by Yamaha and echoes of its earlier incarnation can still be found in the pianos scattered throughout the property and in the artistic sheet music details on the elevator doors. It’s also unmistakably Japanese (hello, heated toilet seats and vending machines!). Some rooms are in traditional tatami style.
As tempting as it is to stay within the warm and fuzzy embrace of the resort, it’s definitely worth spending an afternoon in nearby Otaru. The historic coastal city is known for its beautiful canal, which you can enjoy on a boat trip, but also as a glass-making center. A ten-minute walk from the canal and its abundance of craft shops and museums is Sankaku Market. It feels like you’ve entered another world when you leave the quiet street and step into the market with its busy fish stalls and lines of locals waiting to eat at small sashimi restaurants.
And despite Japan’s reputation as an expensive destination for British travellers, a favorable exchange rate means you can eat a delicious lunch, washed down with a beer or bottle of sake, for less than £20.
The chance to sample Japan’s unique culture, with its incredible cuisine and unbeatable hospitality, means a longer break, split between the snowy mountains of Hokkaido and a week in Tokyo and perhaps one or two of Japan’s other endlessly fascinating cities, such as Kyoto, Nara and Yokohama, despite the long flight, a dream trip for this winter sports enthusiast.
One where powder snow is guaranteed, along with unforgettable memories.
Details
Seven nights all-inclusive stay at Club Med Kiroro Grand from £1,979 per adult (based on double occupancy) without flights, or from £4,186 per adult with return flights from Heathrow and transfers included. Price based on departure date March 24, 2024. Book now at clubmed.co.uk or call 03453676767
Five other exotic ski destinations
Morocco
At an altitude of 3,268 meters, Oukaimeden in the Atlas Mountains sounds like it should in the French Alps. However, this ski area only has two lifts serving some of the most stunningly beautiful ski areas in the world. The souks of Marrakech are less than a two-hour drive away.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Where my instructor Mladen learned to ski. The country offers 141 kilometers of slopes spread over 22 different resorts. This includes Jahorina, only 27 kilometers from Sarajevo. The 1,900-meter-high mountain in the Diarnic Alps hosted women’s alpine competitions during the 1984 Winter Olympics. It is also one of the cheapest ski resorts in Europe; expect to pay around £1 for a beer.
Argentina
Deep in the heart of Tierra del Fuego, the quality of the snow at Cerro Castor – Latin America’s southernmost ski resort – is so good that some professional Europeans choose to do their summer training here. With 120 km of ski slopes, the resort has a lift capacity of 35,000 skiers per hour and offers impressive views of Nahuei Huapi Lake.
South Africa
Tiffindell, in the Drakensberg Mountains, is one of only two ski resorts in southern Africa (the other is in nearby Lesotho). It was once ranked 19th on CNN’s top 100 ski slopes in the world.
Cyprus
Believe it or not, this summer holiday hotspot is also suitable for winter sports fans. The 2,000-metre-high Mount Olympus in the Troodos Mountains offers a modest four kilometers of slopes, although the challenging North Face ski area has hosted a number of international competitions.