You better start practicing your serve: the summer of 2024 seems to be all about tennis. The three month countdown to Wimbledon has begun, Challengers arrives in cinemas tomorrow and anyone posh has already started channeling the Hurlingham mummies nursing their post-match glass of AIX rosé (Whispering Angel, totally passé) while wearing white pleated skirts and a Ralph Lauren cable knit expertly tied around the neck.
The biggest advertisement for embracing all things preppy is Zendaya, who stars in Luca Guadagnino’s film as a former tennis prodigy in a coaching love triangle with two Federer wannabes (Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist). During the press trip, she – with the Barbie enthusiasm of Margot Robbie – committed herself to themed outfits on the field. Big hitters counted a tennis green ball gown (complete with real tennis ball) by Celia Kritharioti at the Los Angeles premiere; a plaid, green SS13 Louis Vuitton look designed by Marc Jacobs during the Paris photocall; and a custom pleated Thom Browne dress, complete with athletic mesh inserts and tennis racket embroidery, for the UK premiere. The actual tennis balls on her Loewe heels for a photocall in Rome were a step far, but it’s all so SW19.
‘Method dressing’ (Hollywood’s recent trend of stars dressing in their on-screen character’s style for red carpets) is of course troubling for trends. Are we really all going to wear tennis uniforms because Zendaya looks so fantastic? There’s no doubt that the glamazon would look just as good (if her stylist, Law Roach, had anything to do with it) dressed as a chicken for a live action remake of Chicken Run, and we wouldn’t go there. Shall we?
But the beginnings of preparation have deeper roots than they, and interest is growing on the Internet. Searches for “preppy tennis outfit” have increased by 300 percent and “vintage tennis outfit for women” by 100 percent in the past three months, according to research by Karen Millen. Trend forecaster WGSN has found that sales of fashion items tagged ‘tennis’ have also increased by seven percent year-on-year. So the question is how you can appear sporty without it looking like you are playing a competition.
According to Karen Clarkson, stylist and owner of Portobello Road’s smart vintage emporium Found And Vision, the first step is perfecting the old-school look. “My top tip is to search eBay, Vinted and Depop for vintage Fred Perry, Lacoste, Le Coq Sportif and other sports brands. If you are lucky enough to find an original set from the 1960s and 1970s, it’s game, set and match,” she says.
Old Lacoste polos are a must-have (first designed in 1933, their timelessness is proven by the fact that they still look great, modeled by Novak Djokovic in the latest campaign), while ‘a favorite in my wardrobe is a cotton Fred Perry pleated skirt is from the 1970s – I’m wearing it with an ivory Extreme Cashmere sweater until the temperature rises,” Clarkson explains. “When the sun is shining, a white T-shirt, tanned legs and a diamond tennis bracelet are all you need.”
As for footwear, Depop experts suggest Adidas’ Stan Smith tennis shoe will be “next in line for a popular revival”, following the samba boom, with searches on the platform up 92 percent. Slazenger is also a contender for best athletic footwear, with a 93 percent increase in searches. But Clarkson suggests stepping things up Zendaya style, who is rarely seen without her white pair of Christian Louboutin stilettos with red bottoms. “I avoid trainers and pair with a low heel pump or ballet shoe – it gives more ‘off-duty’ grand slam stars, rather than just stepping off center court,” she says.
Fashion brands have rushed to join the game. As a campaign, Hobbs, Kim Kardashian’s Skims and Fila (featuring Hailey Bieber looking sultry with an old racquet) have all taken part in tennis-themed spring campaigns. Varley, the athleisure/fashion brand, has just expanded its ‘club collection’: all pleated skirts, pique polos, caps and knits. Meanwhile, Mango has launched a “Mango Tennis club” capsule collection, complete with skorts, shorts and racket-embroidered, navy blue cable-knit sleeveless vests. Even more striking on the nose is Alex Eagle’s white T-shirt, which simply says “TENNIS”.
Luxury brands are counting on the world’s top players to boost their reputations: Gucci tapped Jannik Sinner and hosted a fancy dinner for him at Wimbledon last year, Emma Raducanu is a Dior girl and flew to their Cruise 2024 Mexico fashion show, while Carlos Alcaraz is the face of Louis Vuitton’s SS24 men’s collection.
Much can be gained by looking for inspiration outside the field. Referee chic? It’s a thing. Think navy blue blazers with gold buttons (Gant does a great job) and blue and white striped shirts (With Nothing Underneath is the favorite for fashion editors, while John Lewis sells a serviceable version of KAFFE) paired with smart cream chinos. or pleated Bermuda shorts.
And as for the fans, the Wimbledon stands are the place to freshen up the Sloane Ranger look. Last year, Emma Corrin rocked a beige linen short suit and tie, Yasmin Finney opted for knit shorts, bralette and oversized blazer, while Lila Moss spruced up a blue brief with a Ralph cable sweater. It’s a style bait.
JOIN THE CLUB: GET THE SW19 LOOK OFF THE COURT
Jane Court dress 28”, £105, uk.varley.com
Regular fit club blazer, £350, gant.co.uk
Kaffe, Dabra casual fit button down shirt, £49.99, johnlewis.com
Millie custom pleated front shorts, £128, reiss.com
Stan Smith shoes, £85, adidas.nl
Slim-fit mesh polo shirt, £115, ralphlauren.nl
Emily Crystal tennis bracelet, £99, swarovski.com
D-Smash Paris allover visor, £680, dior.com
ANYDAY V-neck stripe jumper, £32, johnlewis.com
Tennis T-shirt, £30, alexeagle.com