Anyone fancy tennis? This summer, even the most racket-averse among us will be persuaded for a match – or at least given the impression that we’re ready – as the tennis core trend is Grand Slam.
Ostensibly it’s Zendaya and her upcoming tennis theme Challengers film responsible for court-worthy attire that threatens to become as ubiquitous as strawberries and cream at Wimbledon. She’s currently touring the world in a series of tennis-themed looks that rival Margot Robbie’s method dressing that promotes Barbie in a succession of pink ensembles.
On Monday there were custom-made Loewe stilettos with (brand) tennis balls in the heels, on the weekend there was a green and white checked Louis Vuitton coat – an archive piece from the spring/summer 2013 collection – that was reminiscent of a perfectly maintained grass tennis court and last month in Australia the star got even more literal in a sequined dress embellished with a tennis racket motif. Optical tennis white tailoring, neat pleated tennis skirts and custom Lacoste looks are also included in the lineup, curated by Zendaya’s “Image architect” (his spin on the job title of stylist) Law Roach.
In Challengersdirected by Luca Guadagnino – who is also responsible for the aesthetically ambitious Tell me your name (Oliver’s preppy swagger and Elio’s mother’s Max Mara holiday spirit are important references) and A bigger splash (see Tilda Swinton’s ultra-chic summer wardrobe) – Zendaya plays a tennis pro turned coach who seems to have the athletic smoothness of an enthusiast at the sport’s highest level. But what the film really does is provide an excuse to develop a more chic version of tennis apparel, harkening back to the status of a sport beloved by the old country club elite.
“If you do it right, there simply isn’t a chicer sports outfit,” says Laura Ward, founder and CEO of luxury tennis label Exeat, which specializes in the kind of clothing that’s made to be worn on the courts where you play to be seen and then, as she describes: “coffee on the Kings Road”. “The dress code for tennis is the perfect combination of elegance, playfulness and timelessly flattering fits – making it the most famous sport in the world,” she adds.
Ward says interest in tennis has grown in recent years. Pinterest has seen an increase in tennis-related activity in the UK over the past three months; Searches for “tennis outfits” increased by 75 percent and searches for “tennis skirt outfits” increased by 50 percent. On trainer marketplace StockX, the tennis action has increased significantly with a 35 percent increase in trade in tennis trainers, especially the Nike Mac Attack, John McEnroe’s former favorite.
Tennis has long been fashion’s favorite sport. “The core silhouettes are very aesthetically pleasing and exude quiet luxury,” notes Ward. There is more than a century of evidence for the love of tennis fashion; “The bestsellers in Gabrielle Chanel’s first clothing line were tennis dresses and it was a Chanel tennis dress that scored her very first transatlantic entry in the American Fashion,” says Ward. “Then in the 1920s there was legendary Parisian couturier Jean Patou who famously dressed Suzanne Lenglen, the first female tennis icon, for the tennis court, causing a stir with shorter hems and bare arms.” It may not be a coincidence that Anna Wintour chose tennis as her favorite sport long ago and remains one of the best-known amateurs and fans, with a special soft spot for Roger Federer.
The way to top the look now is to channel a 1950s socialite, royal or Ivy League aficionado: the Ralph Lauren version of tennis attire. This season there are tennis-themed collections in all price ranges.
Mango’s Tennis Club collection could have come off the shelves in an exclusive club store in the Hamptons and includes logo-embellished zip-up jackets, visors and a referee-chic vest, with prices starting from £17.99. The Parisian label Casablanca responds to the trend with retro tracksuits and a white T-shirt and pleated skirt. Of course Lacoste, co-founded by the legendary stylish tennis player René Lacoste, is also present with tennis skirts, polo shirts and cardigans in delightful pastel shades and grass green. For a less obvious, yet clearly sporty take, Serena Bute’s ‘speed stripes’ capsule collection nicely references tennis chic in a way she describes as ‘effortless and comfortable’.
Varley’s Club collection exudes the relaxed, refined sophistication you encounter on a Saturday morning in a top sports club. “Tennis style has a timeless elegance thanks to the classic colors and styles. It is chic and can be easily integrated into everyday outfits,” says label co-founder Lara Mead, who chooses the cap as her personal favorite piece of clothing because “it completes a look and hides a multitude of sins.” She emphasizes that, like so many of today’s tennis-themed offerings, “you can wear it on and off the court.”
If you really want to channel the look in a high-end way, check out Exeat’s new Marie Antoinette-inspired collection (a tribute to the Paris Olympics), including the nifty “Liaisons” bodysuit, adorned with roses and rackets . print; Vuori’s “Set” dress or “Volley” skirt; and Alo’s pleated skirt and on-point accessories, including bright white ribbed socks and a reflective visor. On the footwear front, Superga’s Cotu classics, Tretorn’s Nylite 67s (a tennis staple, relaunched April 18) or the Freestyle Hi style from Anine Bing’s collaboration with Reebok should all provide the desired glossy authenticity.
You also need the jewelry. Tennis is perhaps the only sport that has its own distinctive jewelry genre. What better way to dress up your serve than with an understated diamond tennis bracelet? Rachel Boston has a gorgeous £4,000 version, while Edge of Ember offers a delicate £1,550 option with necklace (£465) and earrings (£550) for gaming, setting and matching.
Prepare the court…
Collared sweatshirt, £150, Lacoste; ‘Tennis’ T-shirt, £30, Alex Eagle Sports Club; Tennis dress, £100, Vuori
Romper, £320, Exeat; Cap, £59, Anine Bing; Lace-up sneakers, £65, Superga
Socks, £25, Alo; Tennis earrings, £550, Edge of Ember; Tennis bracelet, £4000, Rachel Boston